frankO 7 Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Just removed my tors on obviously stock carbs. Drilled and tapped the hole fine. However, i noticed that one idle screw goes in a little further as i tapped it slightly deeper on the left carb. This contacts the slide and slightly pushes it up and down. Is this the desired affect? Or should the idle screw not push the slide up and down? I have one carb that does this and one that does not. Should I tap the other one a few threads deeper as well?? Any feedback would be appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAVAGE420 Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Thats the point of installing the idle screw so that they will adjust the slide/s up or down. You want both sides to be identical or very close to it. After you do this, back the screws out so that they don't contact the slides at all. Then sync them so that the slides move to the exact same beat of your thumb. (adjust this at the carb cap adjusters) Go ahead now and adjust the idle screws on both carbs so there the same as well. Now go tear ass around in the dirt/sand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankO 7 Posted April 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Thats the point of installing the idle screw so that they will adjust the slide/s up or down. You want both sides to be identical or very close to it. After you do this, back the screws out so that they don't contact the slides at all. Then sync them so that the slides move to the exact same beat of your thumb. (adjust this at the carb cap adjusters) Go ahead now and adjust the idle screws on both carbs so there the same as well. Now go tear ass around in the dirt/sand. word. thanks. i have them in sync. I just need to tap it out a few threads deeper on the right then... thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muggzy Posted April 18, 2011 Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 (edited) word. thanks. i have them in sync. I just need to tap it out a few threads deeper on the right then... thanks again! Those threads should go all the way into the carb. That slanted edge of the hole you tapped into will probably have to be ground flat (and then some) as well so that the screws go deep enough to lift the slides properly. Savage has a really good how to on this that I'm sure he could point you to if you ask. Edited April 18, 2011 by muggzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banshee Chad Posted April 18, 2011 Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 (edited) The threads do not need to go all the way into the throat. I made that mistake, and the tap was tappered and smashed the threads so the screw pushed in. The idle screw isnt threaded all the way to the tip, so no need to force threads all the way in. just tap until the tap bottoms out, right were the threads end. Gotta grind the outside flat and the same on both sides. I ground mine till the tappered part on the inside wasnt tappered. I had to jb weld the one messed up, and re tap. It works, but id prefer to not have done that. Edited April 18, 2011 by Banshee Chad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankO 7 Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 thanks guys! all done and it came out sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoughtshewas18 Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 I was going to ask the same thing, I had a shop drill and tap mine that has done this hundreds of times so it came out perfect, they cleaned my carbs out too. Anyways, I drove the screws in as far as they could go and my bike will not idle on its own, it gets lower and lower and just dies. Its also hard to rev it, it sounds like its either getting too much fuel or something else is up. Also, should I try losening those bolts on top of the caps to maybe help the idle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FullThrottle_06' Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 I was going to ask the same thing, I had a shop drill and tap mine that has done this hundreds of times so it came out perfect, they cleaned my carbs out too. Anyways, I drove the screws in as far as they could go and my bike will not idle on its own, it gets lower and lower and just dies. Its also hard to rev it, it sounds like its either getting too much fuel or something else is up. Also, should I try losening those bolts on top of the caps to maybe help the idle? #1: Make sure the you have ground off enough of the tapered edge that the new idle screws protrude far enough into the throat of the carb. to hold the slides up. #2: You need to make sure that the T.O.R.S. has been FULLY DISCONNECTED. There is a little black box underneath the front left fender that needs to be disconnected in order for your bike to idle properly. There is a wire that runs from the throttle lever box on the handlebars to that box that needs to be disconnected. #3: Make sure your cross over tube between the carbs is installed. (trust me.... been there done that) Like stated above, there is a bad ass "How-To" on this install that Savage wrote up that is extremely helpful. II used it when I did mine and it was great. It's located in a different topic forum. It's stickied. Go take a look at it. It has good pics with it too. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoughtshewas18 Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 #1: Make sure the you have ground off enough of the tapered edge that the new idle screws protrude far enough into the throat of the carb. to hold the slides up. #2: You need to make sure that the T.O.R.S. has been FULLY DISCONNECTED. There is a little black box underneath the front left fender that needs to be disconnected in order for your bike to idle properly. There is a wire that runs from the throttle lever box on the handlebars to that box that needs to be disconnected. #3: Make sure your cross over tube between the carbs is installed. (trust me.... been there done that) Like stated above, there is a bad ass "How-To" on this install that Savage wrote up that is extremely helpful. II used it when I did mine and it was great. It's located in a different topic forum. It's stickied. Go take a look at it. It has good pics with it too. Good luck Yeah they drilled it perfectly and it lifted the slids up a little almost to what i had them at before and it looks good. Whats the cross over tube btw? Im sure I have it hooked up but I dont know the actual parts lol! I disconnected the tors a long time ago that little black box on the left side. Im not sure about the other little box you mentioned ill have to check. thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FullThrottle_06' Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 I probably have my jargon screwed up but being that the banshee's are a twin cylinder (two carbs), there is a rubber hose that runs between the two carburators. I believe it has to do with choke operation but don't quote me on that, i'm still learning myself. U need to make sure that hose is installed or you will not be able to get that bitch to run at all. Inside the throttle lever housing, there is what I call a "mini micro switch" that made the T.O.R.S. operate. What I'm talking about is the black wire that runs out of the housing. Double check and make sure its all fully disconnected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 I probably have my jargon screwed up but being that the banshee's are a twin cylinder (two carbs), there is a rubber hose that runs between the two carburators. I believe it has to do with choke operation but don't quote me on that, i'm still learning myself. U need to make sure that hose is installed or you will not be able to get that bitch to run at all. Inside the throttle lever housing, there is what I call a "mini micro switch" that made the T.O.R.S. operate. What I'm talking about is the black wire that runs out of the housing. Double check and make sure its all fully disconnected. AS long as the black box under the fuel tank is unplugged, you don't have to worry about unplugging ANYTHING else. Yes it is called a choke tube and it connects the choke in the left carb to the right carb for starting, it is a black hose inline with the choke knob in between the 2 carbs. If it is not there, you have an air leak that causes rideability problems and will damage your engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoughtshewas18 Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 AS long as the black box under the fuel tank is unplugged, you don't have to worry about unplugging ANYTHING else. Yes it is called a choke tube and it connects the choke in the left carb to the right carb for starting, it is a black hose inline with the choke knob in between the 2 carbs. If it is not there, you have an air leak that causes rideability problems and will damage your engine. Yep, I have that hose connected. Maybe ill take another video to show what its like when it runs. Anyone else have this problem where you cant rev the bike because that connection on the left handle bar next to the clutch is out a little bit to stop the reving? I have to push it on to be able to rev my bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoughtshewas18 Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Yep, I have that hose connected. Maybe ill take another video to show what its like when it runs. Anyone else have this problem where you cant rev the bike because that connection on the left handle bar next to the clutch is out a little bit to stop the reving? I have to push it on to be able to rev my bike. Anyone on this last question? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banshee Chad Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Parking brake rev limiter on left bar. Its a normally closed switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoughtshewas18 Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Parking brake rev limiter on left bar. Its a normally closed switch. Can you disable that? I keep having to put tension on it to stop limiting my motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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