thrill-billy85 Posted November 28, 2010 Report Posted November 28, 2010 ok the mods: 99 shee .020 over stock stroke fmf fattys k&n filter, lid on box, no snorkel 28 pwks 140/45 (no oil injection holes to plug) +5 timing (didnt know this till today) 2800' facts/symptoms: idles high air screws all the way in idle screws all the way out exhaust is dripping black and dark gray oily shit and was before the new carbs compression 125/124. leak down test 6psi for 6-7 minutes.... ie no air leaks from the intake manifolds throughout plenty of slack in the cables, and no hanging slides. the slides are pretty loose like theres alot of play side to side the tops on the carbs are not the screw on type, and the gaskets look lke theyve seen their day. WHY DOES IT IDLE HIGH??? starts easy enough. was a 1 kicker with the stockers.... maybe 2 even now. anyone have an idea on float height??? Quote
AKheathen Posted November 28, 2010 Report Posted November 28, 2010 ok the mods: 99 shee .020 over stock stroke fmf fattys k&n filter, lid on box, no snorkel 28 pwks 140/45 (no oil injection holes to plug) +5 timing (didnt know this till today) 2800' facts/symptoms: idles high air screws all the way in idle screws all the way out exhaust is dripping black and dark gray oily shit and was before the new carbs compression 125/124. leak down test 6psi for 6-7 minutes.... ie no air leaks from the intake manifolds throughout plenty of slack in the cables, and no hanging slides. the slides are pretty loose like theres alot of play side to side the tops on the carbs are not the screw on type, and the gaskets look lke theyve seen their day. WHY DOES IT IDLE HIGH??? starts easy enough. was a 1 kicker with the stockers.... maybe 2 even now. anyone have an idea on float height??? that sounds like a good place to start right there. the slides do have a vent hole in them, so any air is meant to cycle between the top and bottom of the slide.... if you are in a pinch, you can use permatex 3-c flange sealant........i removed my gaskets to take up some slide slack in my lectrons and just used that, and it worked great, plus it's fuel safe Quote
thrill-billy85 Posted November 28, 2010 Author Report Posted November 28, 2010 that sounds like a good place to start right there. the slides do have a vent hole in them, so any air is meant to cycle between the top and bottom of the slide.... if you are in a pinch, you can use permatex 3-c flange sealant........i removed my gaskets to take up some slide slack in my lectrons and just used that, and it worked great, plus it's fuel safe you know the slides als dont seem as snug as say the stockers. obviously its a completely design though. seems like the cable adjuster would let in WAY more air then a bad gasket would though... ive got a set of 50 pilots thatll be here monday. well see what happens. hey i also learned today it has an adjustable timing plate set at +5 degrees.. dont know if that matters or not. Quote
camatv Posted November 28, 2010 Report Posted November 28, 2010 chrome slides or alluminum slides?? if they are alluminum slide non plated the slide can wear out very quickly and they will not shut all they way if its NOT an air leak and it idled fine with stockers then the NEW carbs you put on is the problem.. check the slides Quote
Burt Reynolds Posted November 28, 2010 Report Posted November 28, 2010 Check your carb cable routing,yes it can be just that simple Quote
thrill-billy85 Posted November 29, 2010 Author Report Posted November 29, 2010 Check your carb cable routing,yes it can be just that simple the carb slides APPEAR to be shutting all the way... never seen how its supposed to look on a pwk. the slides are non plated aluminium, and they are loose. there is plenty of slack in the cables. enough so i take up some before it actually opens up Quote
AKheathen Posted November 29, 2010 Report Posted November 29, 2010 the carb slides APPEAR to be shutting all the way... never seen how its supposed to look on a pwk. the slides are non plated aluminium, and they are loose. there is plenty of slack in the cables. enough so i take up some before it actually opens up the slides should make a "thunk" when they bottom out without the idle screw. if they are floppin around side to side, then you probably just need new ones......... pics might help Quote
thrill-billy85 Posted November 30, 2010 Author Report Posted November 30, 2010 good idea AK. i looked at them today, and one has been worn really bad on the curved side, near the bottom. the other too, just not as bad. the wear is near where it seats. i installed 50 mains today, and it helped.... ALOT. enough to where it was bearly doing it at all. i also havent put the air box back on, so i was basically running open carbs with a clean piece of t shirt rubber banded on the boots. i also took tha body that the jets screw into off the main body of the carb. the o ring seal had gummed up gas all dried to it. i guess ill see about a rebuild kit for it. also bad when i had put my cool head on (got the stocker on now) it struggled to get into the power band. went home, out the stocker back on, and ir ran fine. it seemed like it wasnt getting enough gas 1/2-3/4. do people often have to re-jet for just a cool head with 20cc domes. i was running 93 pump gas Quote
AKheathen Posted November 30, 2010 Report Posted November 30, 2010 didn't you have a thread about that like last month? you ever figure if the domes are stroker domes, or not? Quote
thrill-billy85 Posted November 30, 2010 Author Report Posted November 30, 2010 didn't you have a thread about that like last month? you ever figure if the domes are stroker domes, or not? i really have no clue how to tell if theyre stroker domes. i ordered them from the local shop here, and they had called tucker rocky and they said they were out of 20cc, but they could send me 21cc domes instead. i said it's work. then when i went to pick them up the parts guy was like OH hey they sent 20cc domes! kinda makes me wuestion whether they are or not you know... Quote
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