lag with cool-head & starting issues (fuel delivery

[thrill-billy85]

ok first the mods:

99 man-shee

tors eliminator

pro-flow k&n

v-force 2's

fmf fattys

no boost bottle

.020 over

hot rods crank

 

2900 elev

270 mains

?? pilots

 

first issue. i bought a cool head with 20cc domes. put them on and i was struggling to get in the power band. (like i was in too high of a gear). took the cool head back off put the stock one back on and ran perfect. i was using 93 octane which as i understand is ok at this altitude. any ideas????

 

second and most important!!!!!! it SEEMS like a have a leaking seal?seat in the carb. basically its hard/impossible to start if i dont touch it for a few days. ill take the filter off and blow air thru the vent tubes (spews gas out of the carbs into airbox). after that i turn the gas back on and itll fire right up. now if i start it everyday it does fine, but skip a day, and im blowing the carbs out. NO i dont leave the gas on. compression is 121 on both sides. any ideas?????

[AKheathen]

ok first the mods:

99 man-shee

tors eliminator

pro-flow k&n

v-force 2's

fmf fattys

no boost bottle

.020 over

hot rods crank

 

2900 elev

270 mains

?? pilots

 

first issue. i bought a cool head with 20cc domes. put them on and i was struggling to get in the power band. (like i was in too high of a gear). took the cool head back off put the stock one back on and ran perfect. i was using 93 octane which as i understand is ok at this altitude. any ideas????

 

second and most important!!!!!! it SEEMS like a have a leaking seal?seat in the carb. basically its hard/impossible to start if i dont touch it for a few days. ill take the filter off and blow air thru the vent tubes (spews gas out of the carbs into airbox). after that i turn the gas back on and itll fire right up. now if i start it everyday it does fine, but skip a day, and im blowing the carbs out. NO i dont leave the gas on. compression is 121 on both sides. any ideas?????

that 121 compression, is it with the 20cc domes? also, are the domes for stock stroke, or stroker? the symptoms sound like it could be stroker domes. also, thry switching the float bowls from left-right. if you get the one with the choke jet installed in it on the right carb, then the choke will not work

[thrill-billy85]

that 121 compression, is it with the 20cc domes? also, are the domes for stock stroke, or stroker? the symptoms sound like it could be stroker domes. also, thry switching the float bowls from left-right. if you get the one with the choke jet installed in it on the right carb, then the choke will not work

 

 

ok the 121 psi is with the stock head. the domes SHOULD be for a non-stroker motor.... which mine is stock stroke. still 121 seems kinda high for 3000 above sea level right?? i never comp tested the 20cc domes.

 

i switched the float bowls like you said today and observed a few things:

the bowls have like a hole for a brass siphon rod to go into (similar in size to the angled float bowl overflow tubes???) . first off only the left side carb had the brass siphon tube, the right did not. HOWEVER the bowl that was on the RIGHT SIDE had what APPEARED to be a small brass screw down at the bottom of that hole that the siphon tube from the main body of the carb goes down into. SO i switched the bowls (like you advised) so that the left side (choke side) carb (with the brass siphon tube going down) went into the bowl that APPEARED to have a small brass screw down inside the hole. put everything back together..... wouldnt start..... then put the kill switch to the ON position and it fired up...... and subsequent attempts thru the day also produced a start. so tomorrow i will see where we stand since itll be truly a cold start.

 

lemme know if BOTH carbs are supposed to hae the brass siphon tube going down into he float bowl.... seems like maybe it should????

[AKheathen]

only the left carb has the siphon tube, and the choke jet in the bowl. the right side feeds off of the piece of vacuum line between the carbs when the choke is on. i would definately do a compression and squish test with the coolhead installed