Gikki44 Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Yup, I'm used to all that stuff from building cars for a long time. It's just I've never had experience with two strokes and carbs. Seems like such a simple setup but yet so many variables. I know I'll get it eventually its just now we have two kids and the amount of time that i can spend doing it has diminished quite a bit, LOL.. I'll install the tors kit and 240 mains tonight and let ya know if theres any change. I probably wont get to run it till sunday, but i can atleast fire it up. Thanks for all the good stuff so far. Really appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gikki44 Posted October 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2010 OK so i got the removal kit installed and the idle screws set. Still smoking whitish out right side, gonna run it a little today to see if the bogging is still there. Tore both the carbs down and checked everything. It was def rebuilt like the guy said. Also set the proper float height on both. The carb on the left which os not smoking seemed quite a bit wetter inside when i first got it apart especially in the slide area. Dont know if that matters but the side that smokes was quite a bit dryer. The needle is # y151 and is set on the middle clip. Isnt the stock needle 5n7 or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06specialedition Posted October 3, 2010 Report Share Posted October 3, 2010 OK so i got the removal kit installed and the idle screws set. Still smoking whitish out right side, gonna run it a little today to see if the bogging is still there. Tore both the carbs down and checked everything. It was def rebuilt like the guy said. Also set the proper float height on both. The carb on the left which os not smoking seemed quite a bit wetter inside when i first got it apart especially in the slide area. Dont know if that matters but the side that smokes was quite a bit dryer. The needle is # y151 and is set on the middle clip. Isnt the stock needle 5n7 or something? Make sure your carbs are synced after taking the tops off. The slides need to move up and down exactly the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gikki44 Posted October 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2010 First run time today. There is no more white smoke but the bogging down is still there. Still smoking out the right side cylinder only and its def bluish smoke. I changed the mains out to 250 and it seems to do the exact same thing. Just a pretty large power loss from around 3/4 to full throttle. The smoke gets much thicker during this point too. Im gonna make sure the carbs are synced tonight. What other options do i have to try here. Like i said the carbs were both spotless and i set the float height correctly. The only thing im thinking is it has something to do with the needle. The number is y151 and i dont think thats the stock needle. I pulled the plug on the side thats smoking after a couple of good runs and its slightly wet and the prong seems to be kind of crusty black which i think would be too rich right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gikki44 Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Anybody with any input? Dont know where else to start at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 you won't like it, but i'm stickin with crank seal on the right cylinder. you can build a leak-down tester to verify that there is a leak, but you have to have the clutch cover off, or something like a balloon attached to the vents to verify that it is the seal. at this point, I'd already have the clutch cover and PTO gears off checking it out.....possibly that bearing is toast, too...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gikki44 Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 ok, so if its the crank seal would that be causing the power loss as well. Is the bearing easy to remove and replace or is it a bitch. The smoke is def more blue than white. But ya still thinkin crank seal huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gikki44 Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Can the seal on the right side of the crank just be replaced or should they both be done? I can change the seal without disassembling the bottom end correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Can the seal on the right side of the crank just be replaced or should they both be done? I can change the seal without disassembling the bottom end correct? NO, you need to split the cases because the crank seals have a rib that runs around the outside that fits in a groove in the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gikki44 Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 So do I have to remove the cylinders and drop out the pistons and all. I have a clymers and I'm gonna follow that but it really doesn't specify if it coulda been dine otherwise. Gotta pop off both side covers correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gikki44 Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 So I decided while I'm in there I might as well freshen up a bit. As long as the pistons and cylinders look ok I'm gonna change out fresh rings. I actually work in a full machine shop so we'll check the cylinders over but I'd like to just keep the stock bore for now so I won't need pistons and all. A couple questions before I start. Can I leave the bottom half of the casing on the frame to change the seals and get this all done? And where is the best deals for the full gasket kit I'm gonna need? Thanks for all the help so far guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gikki44 Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Any suggestions or advice on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 pretty easy to pull the engine and drop it on the bench. it can be intimidating first time to split the cases, but once you see everything and read the manual, it really is a pretty simple thing. just gott get that mode in your head, lol. after ripping a ds650 out, repairing the tranny, and stuffing it back in running in under 8 hours, the banshee really isn't much in comparison. you have to get to the bottom of the cases easy to split them, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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