Hello all!

[Bad Medicine Racing]

Hi guys. I have been riding Banshees for around 10 years and somehow I have not found this site until now lol. Everyone on here seems to have some nice bikes. My current is a 1995 that I have just went through the motor on. I had some previous problems with my old LA Sleeve 409 kit (head studs pulling out) so it sat for a long time with some water in the case that I didn't know about. When I drug it out and got it running again with some stock jugs and pipes it did fine...until I put some old FMF SST pipes on it. I got to ride it 2 times and the left rod bearing came apart and got the piston and head. It cleaned up on 0.020 and I found a real nice crank from an 05 that was welded and trued. It has TORS eliminators on it with stock carbs, open air filters and the SST pipes (which I don't really care for). I am having a problem with it that was not there until I changed the pipes. I have been using the search button with no luck so far, but maybe I can find something soon. It's nice to see so many more people with strong interest in the Banshees.

 

 

-Chris

[madjimmax]

Welcome to the one and only BHQ. If you let us know what the problem is maybe someone can help you out. When you changed the pipes did you rejet? Have you done a leak down test since you put it back together?

[06specialedition]

Welcome to BHQ!

[Bad Medicine Racing]

Welcome to the one and only BHQ. If you let us know what the problem is maybe someone can help you out. When you changed the pipes did you rejet? Have you done a leak down test since you put it back together?

No, it already had 310s in it, figured that was big enough. No, I have not done a leakdown test, I don't have the tools for that...never even heard of it on a 2 stroke until I saw in on this site lol. I put new crank seals in and oiled them first (have seen seals burn up in auto applications when put in dry) when I changed the crank. It had the same problem before I downed the engine, but ran fine with the stock pipes.

 

 

The problem is that when you run it though the gears, when you hit 6th it starts sputtering like it is fouling a plug. I also like to ride wheelies, and when you are on the back tires and click it in 4th it sputters also. I lowered the floats yesterday and it helped the 6th sputter, but the wheelie sputter is still the same...one more thing, I usually just blip the throttle and shift without using the clutch, if you never lift and just clutch and shift, the 6th sputter is almost non existent.

 

B8ES NGK plugs.

Edited August 29, 2010 by Bad Medicine Racing

[06specialedition]

Whats your elevation? Those 310's could be too big.

 

Have you done plug chop??

[Bad Medicine Racing]

Whats your elevation? Those 310's could be too big.

 

Have you done plug chop??

Around 1500', give or take. I saw a thread on plug chop on here, but have not looked at it. I will check it out.

 

I forgot it add that the factory timing plate is slotted for advanced timing, and the head is shaved, but I do not remember how much it CCs at.

[Bad Medicine Racing]

Scratch that 1138' according to the elevation finder.

[Larry's Shee]

Did you clean out the carbs and fuel petcock after it's "nap" ?

[Bad Medicine Racing]

Did you clean out the carbs and fuel petcock after it's "nap" ?

It actually had 34mm Kiehn PJs on it during it's "nap" lol. I took them off because they were using WAAAY to much fuel. I put them back on and tried them when all this started and it ran great for a few minutes and then started skipping on the left side. When I checked it out, the intake was falling apart, so I tore these stockers down and soaked them in that really mean, stinky carb cleaner that will take the skin off of your hands. But I have not bothered with the petcock. It needs a new one as the old one does not completely cut the fuel off. It still drips a little. I was looking at intakes earlier thinking about putting the PJs back on it, but I would rather have it running right with these stockers.

[Larry's Shee]

On my son's shee I had to pull flwheel and clean poles on stator (little rust) inside of f-wheel , pick-up nubs on outside of f-wheel ,gap p-up coil .016-.018 . BTW , welcome !!

[Bad Medicine Racing]

On my son's shee I had to pull flwheel and clean poles on stator (little rust) inside of f-wheel , pick-up nubs on outside of f-wheel ,gap p-up coil .016-.018 . BTW , welcome !!

I will try that, seems like it was a little rusty in there when I had the case apart...but I wonder why It ran good with the other carbs.

[Larry's Shee]

If you pull f-wheel use proper puller ,not 2-3 jaw or hammer and prybar, lol. BTW, nice Malibu , little more power and you'll get both wheels off.

[Bad Medicine Racing]

If you pull f-wheel use proper puller ,not 2-3 jaw or hammer and prybar, lol. BTW, nice Malibu , little more power and you'll get both wheels off.

I have one, bought it before I went through the motor.

 

 

Thanks for the compliment on the old junky car...I don't have any pics of my shee on the computer. The track was not there that night and I had an exhaust leak. It was a spur of the moment deal, the guy taking the pics was not supposed to be there that night but showed up anyway and I wanted some pics lol. I was only leaving at about 8psi (due to the exhaust leak) where I usually leave around 10-11 with the slicks with 60' times in the 1.40 range. Just an old home built, pump gas, small block, stock suspension, turbocharged, blow thru street car.

Edited August 29, 2010 by Bad Medicine Racing

[madjimmax]

I think them 310s are too small I would try to go to 320s to 330s and do a plug chop. You also might want to make sure that you have a 27.5 jet in the pilot. I you dont have them give Jeff @ FAST a call he'll have what ya need 785-364-5325

[Bad Medicine Racing]

UPDATE: I think I figured it out today. It has TORS eliminator tops on the carbs so it has the screws coming in from the sides of the carbs for the idle speed. Well one of them has been missing ever since I have had the carbs, and coincidentally the one with the missing screw was the side that was not running right. Well it is some goofy M6x175 maybe more threads screw that cannot be had at the local Lowes on a Sunday afternoon...BUT what can be had are some 1/4-20 bolts and a tap. So I tapped that carb out to 1/4-20 and ground one of the bolts down to a nice point like the other screw had and put it in, set the idle and locked it in with a jamb nut. I also eyeballed the carbs to make sure that both slides were operating simultaneously. Now it is almost perfect. It runs much better now, but I still have a little more tuning to do...but at least you can stand to ride it now lol.