AdrenalineJunky Posted August 11, 2010 Report Posted August 11, 2010 Well I am assembling the rest of the engine and am now installing the drive gear and when I slide it on it doesn't want to slide into the crank seal and seat. I have used some force but it doesn't want to go. I got to wondering if I maybe installed seal backwards as I can see the spring on the seal but it seems as the other side had the big hollow lip. I hope someone says it just needs pushed in harder....................... Quote
Nutwood 472 Posted August 11, 2010 Report Posted August 11, 2010 yep you have the seal in right,the nobs go trods the crank,I always install mine on the crank,before I seal the cases together,but try greasing it up and push a little harder,and the key might be holding you back,so tap lightly with a hammer and try turning it while you try pushing on it Quote
AdrenalineJunky Posted August 11, 2010 Author Report Posted August 11, 2010 Well the nobs are facing out. Seems as if nobs were on both sides though. I can't remember. Damn I don't want to pull it back apart. I know the other side had the deeper hollow lip which I packed with grease. Quote
AdrenalineJunky Posted August 11, 2010 Author Report Posted August 11, 2010 Well that answers my question. Looks like it's coming back apart. Thx. man. Quote
SAVAGE420 Posted August 11, 2010 Report Posted August 11, 2010 Well that answers my question. Looks like it's coming back apart. Thx. man. Yup, take it apart again and take your time assembling. Another guy on here recently did this and didn't notice until it was ran and sucked in a bunch of trans fluid. So lucky we caught it now before it was in the frame and ran. Not sure how he got it all together like that though Quote
AdrenalineJunky Posted August 11, 2010 Author Report Posted August 11, 2010 Yah he would have had to beat it in there. I am glad I caught it. I knew what I did as soon as I started looking at it. I got it all back apart again. Do I need to reclean the sealant off of both sides again or can I just put it on and slap it back together? Do you guys put it on both halves or just one? Thx for the info. It was discouraging but I can take it apart and put it together without the manual now lol. Quote
SAVAGE420 Posted August 11, 2010 Report Posted August 11, 2010 I would clean both case mating surfaces and start 100% fresh. I only put it on the lower case and leak downs always check out just fine afterwards. Your doing a leak down test after you put the cases together and let it cure right? Quote
AdrenalineJunky Posted August 11, 2010 Author Report Posted August 11, 2010 Alright i'll take your advice. Yah gonna do a leakdown if I ever get it together lol. What all has to be assembled to do the leakdown. The cylinders and head and everything right as far as topend. Well gonna try to see how far I can get tonight. I already had cylinders and everything on getting ready to do clutch before this happened. On a side note I thought I recalled reading you don't have to use the orings in the clutch? When I took mine apart there aren't any and I thought I read that. Thx. greatly for the guidance. Mike Quote
camatv Posted August 11, 2010 Report Posted August 11, 2010 yup clean ALL that sealer back off and re apply it. the gear needs to go one FIRST then you install the keyway. if you try to install the gear with the key in it pushes against the key and wont go on corectelly. Quote
SAVAGE420 Posted August 11, 2010 Report Posted August 11, 2010 Alright i'll take your advice. Yah gonna do a leakdown if I ever get it together lol. What all has to be assembled to do the leakdown. The cylinders and head and everything right as far as topend. Well gonna try to see how far I can get tonight. I already had cylinders and everything on getting ready to do clutch before this happened. On a side note I thought I recalled reading you don't have to use the orings in the clutch? When I took mine apart there aren't any and I thought I read that. Thx. greatly for the guidance. Mike Right from the bottom end up to the head and intakes on for a leak down. Threebond 1211 or Yamabond 4? I have always used 1211, i apply it with a small somewhat stiff bristle brush. A very thin EVEN coat is all ya need. I like to see a little squish out all the way around, makes me sleep better at night. Huck them outa the clutch if you have something other then stock in there. You can also split the cases with the top end still on, some people frown on it and don't like doing that but it can be done to save time. Ive done both ways and the second is much quicker IMO. I always let it sit over night before i test it. Quote
AKheathen Posted August 11, 2010 Report Posted August 11, 2010 yah, clean it real good before resealing. you need everything together on the topend including the intakes, but you don't need the clutch side shit, or stator/flywheel shit on, just make sure the crankcase/topend is all together Quote
AdrenalineJunky Posted August 11, 2010 Author Report Posted August 11, 2010 I am using 1194. Is that fine? That's what they gave me at Yamaha shop because they had no Yamabond 4. Ya I guess i'll do the leakdown before I put the clutch and all that other crap on this time. Quote
SAVAGE420 Posted August 11, 2010 Report Posted August 11, 2010 I am using 1194. Is that fine? That's what they gave me at Yamaha shop because they had no Yamabond 4. Ya I guess i'll do the leakdown before I put the clutch and all that other crap on this time. Ive never used it but it looks good to me. http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/product/series/sealants/1100list.html Quote
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