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Boyesen Rad Valve and Jetting


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Was in the process of switching out the old carbs for PWK28's and noticed a crack in my left factory intake so I popped it off to find that my Shee is running Boyesen Rad Valves. So I am wondering, will this change how I should jet my new carbs? I got 158-160 mains and waiting for 52 Pilots. Mind telling me if this is right?

 

-FMF Fattys w/ PC2 cans gutted

-PWK 28mm with 52 pilot and 158 or 160 main

-UNI 2stage foam filter

-Airbox on.. NO LID

-ModQuad Cool Head 21cc domes

-Boyesen Rad Valve w/ carbon reeds

-300' above sea level (approx)

-36:1 Amsoil Interceptor with 91 Octane

 

Also, should I have the clip in the middle groove on the needles, and how many turns out on the air screw?

 

Thanks a bunch.

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your 150 ish mains seem extremely lox for your almost sea level elevation? i am running stock air box and filter with t 6 and their jetting and my mains are a 280. plus i am at around 4000 ft. my cousin went and bought the rad valve thinking that it would make his bike scream but my old man smoked his fmf fatties and rad valve alba racing banshee with his toomey t5 banshee. and it seemed that the rad valve made his bike loose some power. they work well for snowmobiles but just dont seem to work as well as the stock cages. boysen makes decent reed i am not bashing what so ever.

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actually, he's right around the 3xx range. pwk/ kehin jet size numbers are different. and, you can't compare fatties and t5's on 2 differntly built bikes with 100variables and blame it on the reeds. ther's a reason t5's are a timeless favorite. oh, and the reeds are more midrance oriented. they should have minimal, to no effect on jetting. p.s. put the cans back together and pack them good. you will gain some power back.

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Thanks for the help. Yea I'm going to be running Keihin PWK 28's rather than the stock Mikuni's, so the numbers are different.. For instance, I have 280 mains in the stock 26mm carbs. I've read a little about people packing the cans with pink panther insulation instead of the ripoff FMF kits. I think I'll try it. Thanks again.

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i will admit i like the toomeys and i have them but i still love the sound of those dinosaur fmfs. especially the fatties. but the too bikes were only piped. the abla packaga came with pipes, jetting and graphics. that was it. they were fairly even bikes

there is still many differnt variables, starting with one being jetted closer to what it needs, not just what the kit says, down to tire hook, rider weight nd skill, etc. you have to bolt the same pipes on the same bike, jetted right, with the same rider pitted against a controll, like another bike that keeps up pretty close, or time trials. then you can really compare the 2 pipes, and do the same for just changing the reeds. the point of the reeds is really to shape the power "feel" and response, more than just add power. that alone will make you ride a little differnt, too. the stock reeds do promote a peaky lightswitch power, and the boysen dual stage reeds will smooth that out and add a little power across the board, but there is several different ones to choose from. i don't think the cage comes loaded with the nice reeds unless you pay extra for it.

 

as for packing material, i have used the pink insulation which you can buy in a "project pack" that is like 6'x 18", i believe, for sticking between studs, mabey longer. it did make it pretty damn quiet in comparison, but worked great. last time i was at the local mc shop, i found fly packing for $3.95/roll, which is enough to do a pair of toomy or procircuit silencers, but idk if it'll fill the fmf silencers completely. if you really want the loud sound back, you can always use copper pipe in the core, wich will work like a tuned stinger, but it's up to you to think about sound regulations and neibors, etc. and i wouldn't ride it without a helmet, since it will be loud enough to damage your hearing.

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I'll definitely be packing the silencers. I didn't gut them so they'd be loud. When I bought them from another HQ member, they needed to be re-packed and I haven't decided what to pack them with yet so I threw them on just to test run the new jetting. I live beside a cop station, so I don't want it too loud. Fucking cops around here have nothing better to do than to ticket people for having fun. I also wear a lid as well.

 

Thanks again for your help.

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  • 1 month later...

there is still many differnt variables, starting with one being jetted closer to what it needs, not just what the kit says, down to tire hook, rider weight nd skill, etc. you have to bolt the same pipes on the same bike, jetted right, with the same rider pitted against a controll, like another bike that keeps up pretty close, or time trials. then you can really compare the 2 pipes, and do the same for just changing the reeds. the point of the reeds is really to shape the power "feel" and response, more than just add power. that alone will make you ride a little differnt, too. the stock reeds do promote a peaky lightswitch power, and the boysen dual stage reeds will smooth that out and add a little power across the board, but there is several different ones to choose from. i don't think the cage comes loaded with the nice reeds unless you pay extra for it.

 

as for packing material, i have used the pink insulation which you can buy in a "project pack" that is like 6'x 18", i believe, for sticking between studs, mabey longer. it did make it pretty damn quiet in comparison, but worked great. last time i was at the local mc shop, i found fly packing for $3.95/roll, which is enough to do a pair of toomy or procircuit silencers, but idk if it'll fill the fmf silencers completely. if you really want the loud sound back, you can always use copper pipe in the core, wich will work like a tuned stinger, but it's up to you to think about sound regulations and neibors, etc. and i wouldn't ride it without a helmet, since it will be loud enough to damage your hearing.

old post I know. What exactly is this fly packing and where can I find it locally?
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