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Posted

So I just picked up a 98' banshee and I'm gonna be doing all the fluids in it b4 I start riding it.....What are your suggestions on case oil, anti freeze and 2 stroke oil? The bike is pretty much stock right now, I live a few blocks away from Rocky Mountain ATV so just wondering what your all running so I can get over there and get this thing ready for the dunes :headbang:

Posted

Tranny - The cheapest ATF Type F I can find.

 

Premix - for Gas Yamalube, for Alky Supertechniplate.

 

Coolant - Water Wetter and distilled water, unless you live where it freezes, then use Engine Ice as it has freeze protecion.

Posted

Most of the guys on here recomend ATF and change it often because it is cheap. I feel ATF doesn't provide adequate protection for your gears and bearings because when I drained it out there were metallic particles in it, and my bike did not shift worth a damn when I tried it. I recomend Klotz Flex Drive 30, part number KL506, RMATV sells it. With the Klotz, my bike shifts great and I have had no problems with gears, bearings, shift forks or clutch balls welding themselves to the pushrod, even in my wife's Banshee and there is no metal in it when I drain it. The last time I split my cases there was no wear in the tranny and my bike is now 20 years old with the original gears. The Klotz oil is expensive, but so are gears and I have not had to replace any. As for premix oil I would use Klotz R50, I used to run yamalube, but I had problems with spark plugs fouling and eventually I had a crankshaft fail with it. Bansh-eman and I had a heated discussion about this, but I don't like Yamalube. After I replaced the crank, I switch to Klotz Benol and really liked it in my bike, however my wife did not ride hard enough to burn it properly and we had problems with carbon buildup in the ring lands in the piston and the rings sticking. So I then switched to the Klotz R50 and have had no problems with it, no lost motors, the top ends last a long time, no fouled plugs or stuck rings. I have been running R50 for about 16 or 17 years I think, mixing it at 40:1, that is 1 pint of oil to 5 gallons of gas. As for antifreeze, I use regular Prestone mixed 50/50 with a little Redline WaterWetter added for good measure.

Posted

Most of the guys on here recomend ATF and change it often because it is cheap. I feel ATF doesn't provide adequate protection for your gears and bearings because when I drained it out there were metallic particles in it, and my bike did not shift worth a damn when I tried it.

 

The metallic particles you are feeling are from the clutch. I have been running the ATF for three years with no probs. Rebuild my motor and toast in a new crank. The gears and bearing looked like new. So if they AFT is not up to par. Then why do they use it in CARS and TRUCKS? And if your bike didnt shift worth a damn then something is wrong. Mine sifts about 5x better then running gear oil or motor oil in the case. I have tried all three and AFT has worked great for me. And if you think what a trans goes thought. Then why not run that stuff. Crazzzy to me that Ford can use Type F and have cars and trucks that have over 100k miles on them with using it. If i could use it in my 4 stroke quads I would. But hey, just my .02

Posted

IT depends on what oil you use. From 32:1 to 50:1 is normal, but we need to know what oil you plan to run?

 

 

Bike is stock.....I'll be using Klotz R-50

Posted

The metallic particles you are feeling are from the clutch. I have been running the ATF for three years with no probs. Rebuild my motor and toast in a new crank. The gears and bearing looked like new. So if they AFT is not up to par. Then why do they use it in CARS and TRUCKS? And if your bike didnt shift worth a damn then something is wrong. Mine sifts about 5x better then running gear oil or motor oil in the case. I have tried all three and AFT has worked great for me. And if you think what a trans goes thought. Then why not run that stuff. Crazzzy to me that Ford can use Type F and have cars and trucks that have over 100k miles on them with using it. If i could use it in my 4 stroke quads I would. But hey, just my .02

No, it was not clutch material, it was metal. You could get it out of the oil with a magnet. I even split the cases and could not determine where it came from, but the clutch was perfect. ATF is perfect for cars because an automatic does not see as heavy of shock loads because it has a torque convertor instead of a clutch and cars have a cooler to keep the fluid cool so it doesn't break down from the heat. I was an industrial transmission rebuilder for 15 years and saw many different types of oil used in them and from what I saw ATF is not the best oil for a transmission that has lots of metal parts moving back and forth and having to mesh together(shift forks and sliding gears that have dogs that have to mesh), it is an OK oil for a transmission that uses clutch packs to apply diferent gear ratios. As for something being wrong causing it not to shift, I drained the ATF, flushed the tranny and went to BelRay Gearsaver and it shifted much better. I ran that for awhile( a couple of changes) and then my dealer was out, so I tried the Honda gear lube, that flat sucked as far as shifting. I drained it and flushed the tranny and started running the Klotz Flex Drive 30 and have had smooth shifting ever since. Not once during all of these different oils did I open it up or adjust anything except while I was running ATF. Based on the expierences I have had, I think ATF sucks in a Banshee and my setup works very well with the Klotz and I have never had a problem with my transmission or clutch running it, no bearing or gear failures and my clutch has been in it since about 1995 and still looks brand new.

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