randomguy Posted February 20, 2010 Report Posted February 20, 2010 needing some advice on my jetting. i ride in elevations around 1500ft. temp is usually around 70 - 90 degree. i just need some advice on if i need to bump up my jetting. 01 banshee with t5 pipes, air filter, white bros boost bottle, tors removed. it's suppose to be stock bore. and carbs are stock 26mm mikuni the current jets are 200 main, and 2.8 pilots. Quote
FATBANSHEE Posted February 20, 2010 Report Posted February 20, 2010 Stock jetting is 200 mains and 25 pilots. You are way lean and running like that is just looking for trouble. you should have 27.5 pilot jets and anywhere from 280-300 main jets. put the 300's in and do a WOT plug chop. good luck, hope the motor wasn't ran too long with this jetting and pipes Quote
GrMeyer Posted February 21, 2010 Report Posted February 21, 2010 Is the lid on or off? Don't ride it tell u can bump the jetting up or unless u want a new topend! Quote
randomguy Posted February 21, 2010 Author Report Posted February 21, 2010 yea, i just got the banshee not long ago.. traded a wr400 to it and got some boot. banshee needs clutches so i wont be riding it, and i've only rode it a bit..couple times around the house. seems like it runs alright the way it is..starts first kick. and it has been rebuilt with a new topend recently. i thought the jetting was too small because i'm about positive with the t5 pipes and stuff it came with 280 mains. my right carb was overflowing so i took them off..cleaned them and checked the jets and those were the jet sizes. stock i think i run with the lid on.. but new clutches, air filter, and maybe few other things will be ordered tomorrow. should i go with the 27.5 pilot and get 280 - 300 main's? Quote
randomguy Posted February 21, 2010 Author Report Posted February 21, 2010 also my carbs have tors removed.. but no idle screw drilled and taped into the side like the kits have. but i was talking too a guy that has a shop in Ky, he has 6 drag shees..so i guess he should know what he's talking about but i talked too him about my carbs should it run fine without the idle screws? he said you could adjust the top of the caps so it pulls the slides up so it will idle good and it works fine. he said that he had some shees with the idle screws and some without, like mine is.. and said theres no noticable difference in power or anything. thanks for the replies. Quote
GrMeyer Posted February 22, 2010 Report Posted February 22, 2010 If you dont have the idle screws and they are not drilled out. I would look for the kit. If i remember right, you can just buy the screws and the tap. I would use the top of the carbs for setting the sync of the carbs and using the throttle adj off the bars to do your idle. Also make sure you set the idle when the bike is warmed up. If your running the lid with no mods to it. Then the jetting should be in the ball park of 250ish and 27.5pilots with the air screw around 2-1/2 turns out from seated. If you want the bike to really wake up. Remove the lid if your not riding in water and mud. They make pods for the carbs. Or you can buy if you dont already have a K&N inbox filter. Then mount the filter adapter to the box by drilling out the 4 corners and put some bolts to hold it in place. Making sure you have a good seal. If you go that way... I would start with the jetting at around 300mains 27.5 pilots and the air screw around 1-1/2 turns from fully seated. Quote
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