AdrenalineJunky Posted March 16, 2010 Author Report Posted March 16, 2010 If you are playing with2 strokes you should have a jet kit. My kit has 2 of every size from 250 t0 340 or 350. Went to dealership today and can't even get any jets. Guess I have to order some online. I got the idle kit installed and actually got the quad to start easy and ilde. Once I get the new pilot and order the sync tool I will start tuning it. What would cause it when you rev it up that it doesn't come back down to idle right away, it will rev a little high and not come immediately down to idle. I looked and slide doesn't appear to be sticking. The slide comes back down but revs stay up. Quote
bansheesandrider Posted March 17, 2010 Report Posted March 17, 2010 Did you file and/or sand the inside of the carb where you drilled the hole so there are no burrs to hang up the slide? Either your slide is sticking, you have an air leak or you are lean to cause this. Quote
AdrenalineJunky Posted March 17, 2010 Author Report Posted March 17, 2010 Did you file and/or sand the inside of the carb where you drilled the hole so there are no burrs to hang up the slide? Either your slide is sticking, you have an air leak or you are lean to cause this. I did try to sand it the best I could. Don't really feel any burrs. I'll take a better look at it. Ordering jets tonight. Thx. for the help. Quote
BluBanshee98 Posted March 17, 2010 Report Posted March 17, 2010 You don't need a sync tool with the stock carbs. At about 4 oclock on your carb there is a little plexiglass window. On the slide there is a dowel. Match up the dowel to the window on both carbs and they are in sync. Correct me if I am wrong but I believe this still works even with the tors removal kit. Quote
AdrenalineJunky Posted March 19, 2010 Author Report Posted March 19, 2010 You don't need a sync tool with the stock carbs. At about 4 oclock on your carb there is a little plexiglass window. On the slide there is a dowel. Match up the dowel to the window on both carbs and they are in sync. Correct me if I am wrong but I believe this still works even with the tors removal kit. I thought the tool helped setting the idle screws on both carbs. Where as you have to grind the boss down on each carb and you can't go by how many turns as 1 boss might be filed down a little bit more or less than the other. Quote
bansheesandrider Posted March 19, 2010 Report Posted March 19, 2010 I thought the tool helped setting the idle screws on both carbs. Where as you have to grind the boss down on each carb and you can't go by how many turns as 1 boss might be filed down a little bit more or less than the other. It does not go by the surface where the locknut tightens, it goes by where the screw contacts the throttle slide. When you set your carbs up, screw the screws in until they just touch the slide with it all the way closed, then turn each screw another 1/2 turn. Start the bike and adjust the idle speed, turning each screw equally in whatever direction is needed. Once you have the proper idle speed AND each screw is equal, lock the nuts. Then with the bike turned off, stick a finger in the back of each carb and move the throttle, each slide should start to move at the same time. If they don't you need to adjust the cables on the carb tops. Lengthen the adjuster on whichever carb is the second one to move. This is all I have ever done to sync my carbs, I don't have a fancy tool and my bike seems to run just fine- both cylinders are running at the same temp according to my I/R temp gun, exhaust pressure feels the same, etc. I do have the stock balance tube on my bike and that is the reason Yamaha put it there in the first place, to make up for the MINOR discrepancies in intake flow from one side to the other. Quote
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