t3h hott! Posted November 23, 2009 Report Posted November 23, 2009 first of, hello to everyone in bh.com! just need some opinions from some of u guys that know more than me.... i recently bought my first banshee, it is a 97 the bike came with some upgrades and i wanna see what u guys recommend and some opinions. i bought the bike from a local dude who had the bike sitting for some time (couple months). when i went to pick up the bike it would not shift , i brought the bike to a good friend of mines that works on banshees and he started pointing shit out left and right. here are the mods that we could see: cool heads t5 pipes w/ silencers vforce3 reeds boost bottle 34mm LECTRON CARBS (GAS) *dont noe the jet size yet... some type of port job, he said its shitty.... comp. on left side is 155 and right side is 165 now to start with the Q's... 1. of rip, my dude tells me to get rid of the cool heads and the boost bottle ( they garbage), mind ya i like them cus they look nice.... wut ya think? 2. we got the bike running and he takes it down the block, comes back and tell me the bike has NO BOTTOM END! which i noticed, he says it can just be the carbs dirty, but i've been researching and i'm starting to lean towrads the carbs being tooo big for this setup, mind ya we havent opened the engine so i dont noe the bore/stroke, but it doesnt look like it got any interior work except for the (shitty) porting... wut u think, lectrons too big? 3. i left him the bike to clean the carbs and see if that helps, my goal for the bike is good low to midrange power, i really dont care tooo much about top end cus i dont need to be hauling ass in this bike, i'm going to mostly use it on trails and occasionally take it to the "sand dunes" we have down here in fl. but then again i dont want the bike to be a slug uptop, what do u guys recommend i either add or remove to reach my goal? thanks in advance to everyone, really apprecciated any help! Quote
GrMeyer Posted November 23, 2009 Report Posted November 23, 2009 well if it is a stock stroke and no porting the 34mm are big for that motor and would make it a top end motor. Keep the cool head so you can change out domes and what not. Kill the boot bottle!!! If you are 155 and one side and 165 in the other.. You might have to look in the motor and need of some new rings. As for lectrons they are ran by the needle. They make a great race carb. Tell you can find the size and stroke of the motor the carbs are a big ? So if and when you do find out whats going on inside the motor, more people will beable to give their (.02) Best of luck and have fun!!! Quote
t3h hott! Posted November 27, 2009 Author Report Posted November 27, 2009 Hey thanks for the reply. So I got a call from my buddy and he tells me that 1 of the lectron carbs has a broken bowl and it missing a spring somewhere, he said my best bet is to just get rid of them, cus finding the parts to fix them might be harder than just exchanging them. On a second topic, he told me again to get rid of the pro design kool head, he said if I find someone with a stock head to trade + $$ ontop, is that head that bad? Just trying to make sure he doesn't just want it for himself... Quote
TwistedSheeRida Posted November 27, 2009 Report Posted November 27, 2009 no man keep the cool head ten times better than the stock head. Quote
GrMeyer Posted November 28, 2009 Report Posted November 28, 2009 Deff keep the cool head. It is a great up grade and will allow you to change your compression if you want more power. Also, start looking for a 28mm or a 30mm carb to put on your bike. That is if you dont have a 4mil kit in there. And If it does then you can look for carbs around 33mm to 35mm. Aslo try to get some pics of the porting. Then someone on here will beable to help you in the right direction on whats going on in the motor. And you said that the compression came out to around 155-165. Just make sure your using around 100 oct. maybe get away with a mix or 91/93oct with 100 to help you cut the cost of riding down. I try to use the least oct rating with out any ping. But if you go back to a stock head you will lose alot of the power on the bike that is already there with the domes it is using. Quote
t3h hott! Posted November 28, 2009 Author Report Posted November 28, 2009 i'm picking the bike up tomorrow morning, i've been looking in this site alot and it doesnt seem tooo difficult to work on this bike... i'm a car mechanic, i just never had the chance to work on banshee's but i've taken my rm125 apart before and put it back together plus all the info on this site, i think i'll be ok...if anything he can help me do major stuff... economy isnt the best to be paying someone for something i could do myself... i'll be ripping the bike completely apart thou, i'll get ya the piks of the the porting and everything soon. it seemed weird to me that this guy tells me his friend wants to trade me his 34mm keihins carbs for my 'messed up' lectrons, and check how he says the same guy is gonna trade me his stock head plus 20 or 30 bucks ontop for my prodesign cool head... i mean just cus i'm not updated on something doesnt mean i'm a sucker, i've seen oem heads on ebay and craigslist for 25-50 bucks and cool heads go for the least 100 used... Quote
AKheathen Posted November 28, 2009 Report Posted November 28, 2009 do yourself a favor and keep your bike away from that guy. he is either a bit out of the know, trying to rip you off, or both. i would ditch the boost bottle, but the rest is pretty valuable to your build. first, those lectrons are probably the best carbs you can run. i have heard from every great banshee man running lectrons that they are the easiest to tune, and most reliable, once you learn how....similar to your eldelbrock......being a mechanic, it should be well within your reach, and the large size of the carb can be handled with roll-on throttle, though they may not be too big, depending on what's in there......you can get the parts easily, i hear. the porting will set how much bottom end you can achieve, but switching to the chariot reed and setting the timing at the right advance should help that also.......now, here comes the kicker....if you did the compression test right, then you need a rebuild. 5psi is the max difference between cylinders. at least you will be able to take the port timings down, measure stroke, check the dome size, cr. etc..... Quote
t3h hott! Posted November 29, 2009 Author Report Posted November 29, 2009 thanks to all for the replys... so i went to call buddy this morning and he doesnt pick up... i showed up at his house and my worst nightmare became a reality... needless to say, it's too late for the head. he said the domes where bad and he had to trade it... long story short i got f'ed over, he prob came up $100 on my head. i grabbed all my other isht and the stock head and rode the hell out, he even offered to help me put it all back together free of charge(of course since he prob already made what he would've charged off the head...) but i said "yeah, i'll call u when i'm ready for another 1! lol!" NEVER AGAIN! i have the shee with me now and tomorrow ima start to tear it apart and get it ready for paint. i still have the lectrons, i'm not sure what ima do cus i would like to keep them... i was looking at the bike and it looks like its stock bore, tomorrow i plan on pulling the cylinders and measuring them and i'll post the findings on here... BTW: how can i tell if it's a 4mil or stock? I got some piks for u guys, they are crappy cell fone piks but that'll have to do for right now... port job and now i have 2 more questions... when i turn the wheel alll the way max to either dirrection that wheel gets all retarded.. whats this mean? and #2 is my frame bent or is this just a subframe that i can bend back into shape? Quote
AKheathen Posted November 29, 2009 Report Posted November 29, 2009 omg, i would brake his fucking legs, or call the police....that was your $200 head, not his. who is the one who put the regular fuel in and messed up the dome? get your "bad head" back and an o-ring kit. new domes are only 40, and you can get them cheaper. you have to measure stroke. 54mm is stock.....that steering is normal for better turning... Quote
t3h hott! Posted November 29, 2009 Author Report Posted November 29, 2009 yeah, trust me thats exactly how i feel... but i had to make sure i got all my stuff before getting into it with him, i told him to try and atleast get me some money but i doubt any of that is gonna happen, i'm honestly taking it as a lesson learned, people just arent who they say they are.... i have about 4 other friends with banshee's who will not be getting a referal to him.. so imo he looses more. i'll get another head before i put it back together. when i first brought the bike to him he told me the plugs looked like it was running rich, he took a look at the gas and said it had too much gas it looked too light... Quote
GrMeyer Posted November 29, 2009 Report Posted November 29, 2009 Well I would have to say that I would be looking at getting the head back for sure. And if not then I would call the cops for theft. When you pull the motor and everything else make sure you get a full gasket kit. And a clymers manual. The book has everything in it. Also if and when you pull the jugs you will have to take some measurements on the ports. This will help for a builder on here to help you find out whats going on in that motor of yours. Looks like a fun project. Just take your time and you will be happy at the end but the wallet will be light. Quote
t3h hott! Posted November 30, 2009 Author Report Posted November 30, 2009 does the clymer manual come on a cd? 1 of my friends has a manual on a cd but i dont recall which brand it is... it has all the specs and tear down of the bike looked pretty neat. and yeah i'm already feeling the wallet part... already i bought new plastics and my front end kit is soon to be on its way... how do u guys feel about the anodize a arm bearing kits on ebay? Quote
GrMeyer Posted November 30, 2009 Report Posted November 30, 2009 I guess it can be on a CD... Mine is just a paper manual. But if you have all the Tq specs and what not then I guess your good to go. And for the anodize a arm bearing kits I couldnt find them. And they are just a sleeve with dust caps with new bushings. Unless your talking about new A arms in all Quote
bluebanshee1998 Posted December 2, 2009 Report Posted December 2, 2009 do yourself a favor and keep your bike away from that guy. he is either a bit out of the know, trying to rip you off, or both. i would ditch the boost bottle, but the rest is pretty valuable to your build. first, those lectrons are probably the best carbs you can run. i have heard from every great banshee man running lectrons that they are the easiest to tune, and most reliable, once you learn how....similar to your eldelbrock......being a mechanic, it should be well within your reach, and the large size of the carb can be handled with roll-on throttle, though they may not be too big, depending on what's in there......you can get the parts easily, i hear. the porting will set how much bottom end you can achieve, but switching to the chariot reed and setting the timing at the right advance should help that also.......now, here comes the kicker....if you did the compression test right, then you need a rebuild. 5psi is the max difference between cylinders. at least you will be able to take the port timings down, measure stroke, check the dome size, cr. etc..... if you ditch the boost bottle what do you need to use i put one on my shee and it done alot better than the stock tube. Quote
AKheathen Posted December 2, 2009 Report Posted December 2, 2009 if you ditch the boost bottle what do you need to use i put one on my shee and it done alot better than the stock tube. well, the only reason it would do better is if you are adjusted too rich on thoe pilot/airscrew, and mabey needle. they lean out the bottom a bit, but do not do anything for power.....just tune your carbs good and sync and it will run better and have more throttle response with the stock tube. Quote
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