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Banshee Not Shifting After Installing Modified Shift Star


decon

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Ok so I recently rebuilt my bike, and decided while I was changing the clutch to install a modified shift star. for some reason when im full throttle and i grab the clutch and shift, it doesn't even feel like my bike is shifting at all it just rev's. BUT... if i lug my bike at low rpm's and shift slow it will switch to the next gear... what could be the problem? I also installed a EBC dirt racer clutch with 3 HD springs and 3 stock springs and a pancake bearing.

 

could the shift shaft not be catching the shift star??? Im clueless at the moment.

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ok well its not the shift star mod. I have narrowed it down to the pancake bearing adjustment. I loosened the adjustment all the way on the clutch perch and now it shifts but it still doesnt shift as good. now im thinking i need to adjust the pancake bearing but not sure which way to adjust it. any help?

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Same thing happened to me when I installed the pancake. Loosen up the adjustment all the way on the perch. Tighten the adjuster on the clutch till you feel it touch, then back it off just a hair. While the clutch cover is off, adjust the clutch handle to make sure you have it right. I ran out of adjustment at the handle twice before I got it right.

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You guys know your supposed to line up the case arrow to the arm when you adjust the pancake bearing adjuster right? You lightly pull the clutch lever, just till it tensions up, and the arrows should line up down there when its adjusted correctly.

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Same thing happened to me when I installed the pancake. Loosen up the adjustment all the way on the perch. Tighten the adjuster on the clutch till you feel it touch, then back it off just a hair. While the clutch cover is off, adjust the clutch handle to make sure you have it right. I ran out of adjustment at the handle twice before I got it right.

 

wat do you mean by loosen up the adjustment on the perch??

 

like screw the adjuster in to loosen/put slack on the lever

or

loosen/screw the adjuster out (counter clockwise) and take out all slack off the lever

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On some of these aftermarket clutches the fibers and/or steels are thicker than stock.

I line my adjustment up to where the arrows are just about to meet.

In other words, if you were looking down the left side of the bike from sitting on it, the arrow will start to disengage just before it hits the arrow.

 

Pancake bearings are a pain to adjust, but a necessity in my book.

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Well I readjusted it, PITA just to get to the damn clutch I think I will be investing in a lockout with a quick change cover. Also I think where I messed up the first time is I did not loosen the clutch perch adjustment all the way. But now I cant even test it because the brass fitting on my carb top fell through so only one carb works.

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well i rode the bike today and after re-adjusting the pancake and messing with the adjustment of the cable its still doing the same thing. it doesnt grab into any gear at full throttle but it will downshift . when the adjustment screw on the perch is all the way in it wont shift, and when i adjust the screw outward to make the cable tighter my bike doesn't want to accelerate.

 

I have also wondered about my clutch springs. i have included a picture below about what was included with my clutch, I was told that the small spring all the way to the right was the HD spring, because the guy included 6 of these and the rest he said were stock. they seem to have more tension but could them being short cause the clutch plate not to grab all the way? just a thought.

 

Left Spring - Stock

Gold Spring - ???

Right Spring - HD

 

IMG00301.jpg

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The right spring looks stock.

The middle spring looks like a HD barnett. I don't now what kind the left spring is.

Of those three, I'd be using the gold spring. They are the longest, the spring material looks to be the thickest and it looks to have more "windings" on it than the spring on the left.

 

When you put your pressure plate on, are you fighting the spring? in other words...do you have to really push on the screw to put the spring/retainer bolt on?

If so...that's not your problem. How you have your shifter adjusted, somewhere, is your problem.

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The right spring looks stock.

The middle spring looks like a HD barnett. I don't now what kind the left spring is.

Of those three, I'd be using the gold spring. They are the longest, the spring material looks to be the thickest and it looks to have more "windings" on it than the spring on the left.

 

When you put your pressure plate on, are you fighting the spring? in other words...do you have to really push on the screw to put the spring/retainer bolt on?

If so...that's not your problem. How you have your shifter adjusted, somewhere, is your problem.

 

no I really didn't have to fight to put those springs on because they were smaller. I used them because I were told they were the HD springs. Before I readjusted the pancake I had to screw the adjustment in on the perch for the clutch to actually grab and shift. When I readjusted it the shifting became worse

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