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Posted

So I just had a Banshee engine entirely rebuilt, with a stage 3 CDI and stage 3 jet kit installed. I'm running 110 octane mixed 50:50 with 93. The motor is far from broke in, and the mechanic claims it is tuned well, but this thing will not kick start for anything when it is cold. I have to "bump" start it, usually down a hill to get it going. Once warm it starts every kick. Is there some trick I'm missing here? I am somewhat new to jetting but something tells me that there is a quick fix to this issue.

Posted

What the hell is a stage 3 CDI and a stage 3 jets man? :blink:

 

Use your choke and it will start up right away.

 

Also what pilots are in there and air screws turned out too.

Posted

The stage 3 cdi is supposed to be a higher performance rev box and the jet kit is a dynatech that says stage 3 as well. The choke doesn't do jack. I can seriously kick for like 20 minutes and nothing happens. I have to push it up and down the block like 6 times before it will start. Once warm it screams. However, I think it could use some better tuning but since the engine is so new I can't really push it hard enough to tell.

Posted

your float bowls are probably on the wrong side. the left(chokeside) should have a little brass bead on the outside facing the cylinder. list any flow mods like which pipes, air filter setup (pods, airbox, airbox lid, snorkel, etc.) ambient temp. elevation, reeds, and wee can help get you closwe to the size jets you should have. you shouldn't baby a new engine unless it's built old school, but you shouldn't run it lean either. what are the numbers on the main jets? what do the plugs look like?

Posted

I have FMF fattys and turbine core II silencers with a custom aluminum airbox (twin k&n filter). The lid is on the box but it has vents on both sides for the filters. The jugs were ported by Kustom Kraft. I don't know the numbers on the jets, still kinda new. I got a dynojet(correction from earlier) stage 3 kit and can't find the exact specs on it. The plugs look kind of dirty but I had it running earlier. I live in southern indiana so it is in the 80s but humid, elevation is like 500 ft.

Posted

um, yah. u missin the choke tube? that would be an airleak for the right carb that would melt a piston, and both sides when the choke is on..jetting is by numbers, so you have to remove the bowl to find out what's in there.

Posted

The choke tube is there...it looks like i just have some overflow tubes or breathers missing (which i will put on tonight). I talked to the mechanic again and he is telling me that it just needs time to break in all the way...Another guy said I should mill the heads to work better with the porting job on the jugs. I'm all ears for suggestion now....the thing seems to run great when its warm.

Posted

Exactly what I was thinking...

Get a compression reading, REGARDLESS if it was just rebuilt or not.

 

You perfectly described a low PSI motor....in fact, if it starts AND runs fine once it's warmed up...I'd almost be certain it was piston/bore/ring time....

Posted
Exactly what I was thinking...

Get a compression reading, REGARDLESS if it was just rebuilt or not.

 

You perfectly described a low PSI motor....in fact, if it starts AND runs fine once it's warmed up...I'd almost be certain it was piston/bore/ring time....

 

x2.. Im with daj on this one....

Posted

This engine was literally fun for the first time last week. I find it hard to believe that the pistons/rings/etc. would be bad already unless the mechanics tore the shit out of it. They claim that the compression is great.

Posted

Improper installation, wrong size piston, defect...all could be culprit.

Check it out....a banshee in proper health and tune should start in 1 or 2 kicks every time.

Posted

Having the air mixture screws turned out too far, or too small of a pilot jet will cause hard starting when the motor is cold. Let us know what size the pilot jets are, and how far the air mixture screws are opened up, so somebody can help you.

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