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Voltage regulator a must?


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I took my banshee apart in the winter and the voltage regulator was lost. I didn't put my lights back on either. If I hook them up without a voltage regultor will they just blow? Im thinking about getting some 50wat fog lights from walmart. Will the stator push enough to blow those?

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now, that is a curious question. in theory, it should work, as long as you are pulling 100 watts. i'd get a regulator, anyways, so you can run lower watt bulbs that are brighter

uh, no. The voltage regulator does just what it's name is. It regulates voltage, not wattage. Without it, you will fry all of your lights.

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Yep, lights dont last long. If i remember correctly, the stock stator will put out in excess of 20 volts unregulated. Doesn't matter how many watts your lights are, you will cook them as they were designed for 12 volts.

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uh, no. The voltage regulator does just what it's name is. It regulates voltage, not wattage. Without it, you will fry all of your lights.

haha, see, the funny thing is, that the stator produces volt-amps, to put it in terms that you can better understand. as the amperage increases, the voltage decreases. 100watt 12v lights will pull just under 8 amps, keeping the voltage low. a 70 watt load will only pull >5amps, wich will leave the passing voltage <20. the voltage regulator simply grounds the excess v.a. unlike a car, which controlls the production of power by the power to the windings, instaed of a perminent magnet system. because of running a max load all the time, there is no excess power to absorb/ground. if you were ever to run a smaller load, it would definately be nescicary, wich will probably be the case in the near future. but, you can still ride with the 100watters, untill a new regulator shows up, and then swap the bulbs out for some lower wattage bulbs, so they can be brighter at lower rpm's

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haha, see, the funny thing is, that the stator produces volt-amps, to put it in terms that you can better understand. as the amperage increases, the voltage decreases. 100watt 12v lights will pull just under 8 amps, keeping the voltage low. a 70 watt load will only pull >5amps, wich will leave the passing voltage <20. the voltage regulator simply grounds the excess v.a. unlike a car, which controlls the production of power by the power to the windings, instaed of a perminent magnet system. because of running a max load all the time, there is no excess power to absorb/ground. if you were ever to run a smaller load, it would definately be nescicary, wich will probably be the case in the near future. but, you can still ride with the 100watters, untill a new regulator shows up, and then swap the bulbs out for some lower wattage bulbs, so they can be brighter at lower rpm's

 

 

The problem with you theory is that the lights are designed for 12 volt application. This goes back to simple ohms law. So as your bike revs, your voltage increases but your resistance stays the same. You would have to calculate the current for the lights at max stator output power. Lets say 22 volts. I'll break it down for you.

 

Light bulb resistance. R=V^2/P. So that equals 1.44 ohms. 1.44=12^2/100.

Now the resistance of the light bulb is not going to change, because they are 12volt lights.

 

Your current flow through the lights at 12 volts will be as follows.

I=V/R. That equals 8.33 amps. 8.33=12/1.44

 

Your current flow through the lights at 22 volts will be as follows.

I=V/R. That equals 15.27 amps. 15.27=22/1.44

 

Now your power across the light can now be calculated. Which will be as follows.

P=VxI. That equals 99.96 Watts with your lights at 12 volts 99.96=12x8.33 (As you can see the theory working)

P=VxI. That equals 335.94 Watts with your lights at 22 volts 335.94=22x15.27.

 

So as you can see, at max stator output voltage the lights will be trying to drawing 15.27 amps. And trying to put 335.94 watts across your 100 watt light bulbs. Will it take that? I don't think so. And if it could take that, it would be drawing all the power to your lights and kill the bike. Unless of course your stator puts out over 335 watts and run your bike.

 

So you need that voltage regulator to keep you at 12 volts so everything is good.

Anymore electrical questions? lol

 

 

 

 

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Now your power across the light can now be calculated. Which will be as follows.

P=VxI. That equals 99.96 Watts with your lights at 12 volts 99.96=12x8.33 (As you can see the theory working)

P=VxI. That equals 335.94 Watts with your lights at 22 volts 335.94=22x15.27.

 

So as you can see, at max stator output voltage the lights will be trying to drawing 15.27 amps. And trying to put 335.94 watts across your 100 watt light bulbs. Will it take that? I don't think so. And if it could take that, it would be drawing all the power to your lights and kill the bike. Unless of course your stator puts out over 335 watts and run your bike.

 

So you need that voltage regulator to keep you at 12 volts so everything is good.

Anymore electrical questions? lol

see, there's the hole in your theory. i'm not gonna re-school you in electrical calculations, but ohms law is simply the rudimentary formula, not taking into account efficiencies, and limitations. the main process here is a voltage drop across the circut. the stator will only produce about 8 amps @ full output, while simotaneously staying within useable voltage minimums. it will not put out the 15 amps above 10.5 volts, and infact, the many inefficiencies in the circut will drop the voltage to around 2-4 volts, with the rest of the energy being dissapated as heat, and transient fields.

you do not apply amperage, you simply allow it to pass, as it is a volume, and voltage is the pressure, which can only be built in the prescence of volume. no electrons=no voltage.

besides, if you could get 335 watts @ 22v, then you could just pair your lights in series, and run 4 80 watt 12v lights off the stock stator.

 

 

:whoops:

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see, there's the hole in your theory. i'm not gonna re-school you in electrical calculations, but ohms law is simply the rudimentary formula, not taking into account efficiencies, and limitations. the main process here is a voltage drop across the circut. the stator will only produce about 8 amps @ full output, while simotaneously staying within useable voltage minimums. it will not put out the 15 amps above 10.5 volts, and infact, the many inefficiencies in the circut will drop the voltage to around 2-4 volts, with the rest of the energy being dissapated as heat, and transient fields.

you do not apply amperage, you simply allow it to pass, as it is a volume, and voltage is the pressure, which can only be built in the prescence of volume. no electrons=no voltage.

besides, if you could get 335 watts @ 22v, then you could just pair your lights in series, and run 4 80 watt 12v lights off the stock stator.

 

 

:whoops:

 

:biggrin:

 

I totally agree on the fact of limitations and efficiencies. You assume that the stator will only put out 100 watts. Hence the 8 amp output. That comes back to the efficiency. Is it only limited to 100 watts? Every stator will be different. The wiring in a banshee is not going to give you hardly and measurable resistance or loss of power transfer. What the real science comes down to, is how much heat can the light filament take? Neither of us know that answer to that question, but we both know that amperage causes heat. I agree current is passed, but the amount of current that is passed is based upon the resistance path. With the filament being nothing more than a resistor ohms law still applies. Minus the in-efficiencies. I know for a fact from experience that two 50 watt lights will blow without a voltage regulator.

 

In your theory that stator only puts out 100 watts. And minus all the in-efficiencies in the banshee wiring, minus the coil, and the voltage drop you mention. The factory 70 watts should light without blowing correct?

 

Better you didn't try to re-school me in electrical calculations. Because that would be a battle that neither of us will win!

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bottom line you must have a voltage regulator. if you are going to tell someone they can run witout them. you should be held responsible if he starts frying bulbs. Your best bet is to get a voltage regulator. caus eyou KNOW it will work and you KNOW you will be safe from bustin bulbs.

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