Clutch Hell!

[grpark20]

Here's the story. I went from stock clutch with stock adjuster,asv lever/perch and stock cable. Everything was fine then. Now with the same lever/perch set up, new cable (yes it is 100% the correct cable), new clutch (7 friction plates, 6 steels), pancacke bearing, good push rod, good ball, I can't for the life of me get the slack out of the cable. The clutch is adjusted properly...the arrows line up when I push the actuator arm with my finger and feel the tension. With the new set up and the clutch cable placed properly in the slot on top of the case, I have about 1/4 inch of slack at the lever/perch with the adjuster on the perch all the way out. The only way as of now to be able to disengage my clutch I have to pull the cable out of the slots on top of the case and place the nipple end of the cable in front of the bracket that holds the cable to the top pf the case. In other words, instead of the cable being installed properly in the slots on top of the case, it's pulled back and towards the clutch side right in front of the normal mounting slots with the bracket holding it down. Does any one have any idea what's up? Been taking everything apart and looking at it all for 2 days and can't figure it out. The clutch operates properly with this set up like this, but I'd rather know it's right then leave it like this.

[grpark20]

No one has had this issue before?

[DallasGDub]

I know you said your 100% sure it is the right cable, But is the old cable the EXACT same length as the new cable? Mine was 1/4" off. It ended up being the wrong part#.

[grpark20]

I know you said your 100% sure it is the right cable, But is the old cable the EXACT same length as the new cable? Mine was 1/4" off. It ended up being the wrong part#.

The old cable was longer by about 1/8 inch. I'm assuming it was streched. I have 4 cables that I bought trying to get the right cable, so I'm sure. I think maybe it's the lever/perch but that doesn't make since in my head since it worked with stock clutch. It works fine how it is, but I want it to be right. I'm going to try and find a longer adjuster for the perch and if that works, I'll buy new levers from a different company. Either way this makes no since to me unless something is missing in some part of the clutch assembly.

[DallasGDub]

I don't get it either. Does not sound like anything is missing b/c your arrows line up right. This would mean it is on the out side somewhere. Is the new cable ran thru the frame the same way as the old one?

[fastbanshee8]

Did you get install instructions with your pancake bearing, and did you follow them to the "T"? One thing that I know you did wrong, is the clutch arm doesn't line up with the arrow on case, when installing a pancake bearing. It has to be adjusted past the arrow on the case 1/4" to the stator side.

[MILO]

hmm, i installed a pancake bearing recently and adjusted the clutch as usual, lining up the arrows as close as i could. mine works fine. :shrug:

 

you sure that you have the right clutch kit for your bike? installed the rod then the ball? fingers on the basket aren't grooved out? spring bolts all tightened properly? cable routed the same? actuator arm wasn't worn? i'm just tossing things out there bud, so don't get offended, lol.

[DallasGDub]

I have heard that the arrows lining up is not a must, it is more of a guide for stockers. As long as the clutch is fully engaging / disengaging, your all good. This goes along with what fastbanshee8 said.

 

I put the cascade pancake in Scotties bike, along with the FAST clutch and it lined up. We have very little room to work with on the stock perch adjustment, but it works.

 

I run ASV, but have not installed my FAST clutch or HJR pancake yet. It is going in next weekend. I hope I don't have this issue.

[grpark20]

On the first attempt at figuring it all out and doing research the arrow on the arm was 1/4 inch towards the stator and had the same issue. Clutch is brand spanking new and is a F.A.S.T. clutch. No grooves on clutch basket. Rod and ball are in place and are good. Actuator is good. Pancake bearing was installed when I got the bike. Cable is ran the exact same way as the old cable. After doing a lot of research on hear I read that if the actuator arm is adjusted way out towards stator side that it fries clutches. Besides in order for me to make up all the slack that I have, I'd have to get another allen bolt for the pancake bearing I have that would need to be 3 times the length. With the arrows lined up, I still get full use out of the clutch with engaging and disengaging...but the cable isn't in the slot correctly. I think this comes down to the clutch perch. Just my gut feeling. This entire clutch set up was put together by a professional reputable builder. So I'm leaning towards the perch. It just bothers me knowing it's not completely right. Will the arrows being lined up with the pancake bearing installed cause any issues?

[DallasGDub]

Will the arrows being lined up with the pancake bearing installed cause any issues?

Bump b/c I have the same question.

[MILO]

i'm a newb to the pancake bearing also, but i don't see why it would cause any problems having the arrows lined up. the arrows are just a guideline for initial setup so if all else is well, proper adjustment can be achieved easily. clutch set ups vary and arrow alignment varies with it. i would think that as long as the clutch works properly and you have decent engagement and disengagement, and proper play at the lever then it should be fine regardless of using a pancake bearing or stock adjuster. the pancake or stocker is just an adjustment tool to achieve proper clutch operation. if the clutch works right, i'd run with it whether the arrows line up or not.

 

someone correct me if i'm wrong.... :geek:

 

by the way, i'm running a hinson basket, stock inner hub and pressure plate, a FAST clutch kit and the pancake bearing. my arrows line up and i have about 1/2 of the perch adjuster still in the perch for further adjustment. and everything works just fine.

Edited April 9, 2009 by MILO