THE GRIM RIPPER Posted March 1, 2009 Report Posted March 1, 2009 Well, I picked this..... http://www.powderbuythepound.com/catalog/p...products_id=164 The picks my p/c guy just sent me, obviously he (OR ME) is not happy with it. Whats the deal with the coverage? He is saying the powder just lays heavier in some places and doesnt want to grab in other areas. Anyone experience anything like this? Do you guys think its application error? Should I find another PC guy or??? He seems to know what he is talking about..... What I do know Is I want this color and I'm really not trying to settle for less. BTW, this gu just did a bunch of other stuff for me, my cases, clutch cover, and a bunch of other shit.... All gloss black though that may just be easier to do. I'm lost/ pist right now, any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks Guys Quote
sheefreak Posted March 1, 2009 Report Posted March 1, 2009 I'm not a powdercoater but i would think you would have to do a base color to make that work right unless you had a polished smooth clean surface underneath. Quote
THE GRIM RIPPER Posted March 1, 2009 Author Report Posted March 1, 2009 I'm not a powdercoater but i would think you would have to do a base color to make that work right unless you had a polished smooth clean surface underneath. Sorry, I should have mentioned that the frame was previously PC'ed "almost chrome" and it was still in decent shape before this new powder was layed down...... not sure if that counts..... Or if a base coat would even effect how the candy covered different areas of the fame :shrug: :: Im so pissed right now Quote
sheerider1026 Posted March 1, 2009 Report Posted March 1, 2009 WOW!!! what a fucking mess.. i powdercoat also and have never ran across this.. it looks like application error to me... did he sandblast the frame down to the bare metal?? did he use a cleaner (acetone) to celan before he coated?? it looks like he totally missed spots on the frame.. i would not think a base coat is needed for adhesion on powdercoating, its only used for color effects.. i hope you didn't pay him.. i would be pissed, and embarrased to send something out the door of my shop looking like that.. .. Quote
THE GRIM RIPPER Posted March 1, 2009 Author Report Posted March 1, 2009 WOW!!! what a fucking mess.. i powdercoat also and have never ran across this.. it looks like application error to me... did he sandblast the frame down to the bare metal?? did he use a cleaner (acetone) to celan before he coated?? it looks like he totally missed spots on the frame.. i would not think a base coat is needed for adhesion on powdercoating, its only used for color effects.. i hope you didn't pay him.. i would be pissed, and embarrased to send something out the door of my shop looking like that.. .. No shit man.... I am close to furious, I havent paid him anything for the frame, and I wont be paying anything until this shit gets fig out. It was already pc'ed and so I dont think it should have had to come down to bare metal.... At least thats what I read online. And my PC guy is mad cool, he knows it looks like shit and isnt expecting to get paid for it.... Hes basically advising me to pick a non candy color whicj I dont fucking understand....... Unless he just doesnt know how to do it correctly, Unno? Quote
sheerider1026 Posted March 1, 2009 Report Posted March 1, 2009 most of the time, a second coat of powder does not want to lay down unless you have a high dollar powder gun, or you hot flock it (basically shoot the powder on a heated part).. he should have stripped the frame down to bare metal, the powder would have covered very nicely, and you would not have this problem.. he should have known it wasn't going to be right before he stuck it in the oven.. nitro tate should tune in, and will probably agree with me also.. im not trying to sound like an ass.. only sharing what i know.. good luck bro. Quote
THE GRIM RIPPER Posted March 1, 2009 Author Report Posted March 1, 2009 most of the time, a second coat of powder does not want to lay down unless you have a high dollar powder gun, or you hot flock it (basically shoot the powder on a heated part).. he should have stripped the frame down to bare metal, the powder would have covered very nicely, and you would not have this problem.. he should have known it wasn't going to be right before he stuck it ithe oven.. nitro tate should tune in, and will probably agree with me also.. im not trying to sound like an ass.. only sharing what i know.. good luck bro. Defiantly, thanks man :beer: He's a good dude, but apparently isnt that skilled... He just emailed me saying this "What happens sometimes with candy powders on a frame is that there is not enough space between some spots and the powder just goes to whichever spot it gets the most ground. I tried to spread the ground in the frame with wire but that didn't do the trick." Should I ask him if he baked it first? Quote
sheerider1026 Posted March 1, 2009 Report Posted March 1, 2009 if he did not strip the frame to the bare metal, he should have heated the frame in the oven prior to applying the powder, if the frame was bare metal, you can ground it anywhere and the powder should stick to the frame in ALL places with no problem.. sounds like he is trying to cover his ass for a shortcut he made... my bet is that he did not strip the frame to the bare metal and tried to apply the new powder color over the old.. it sounds like it would work, which it can if done correctly. but its tricky.. i personally would have stripped the frame bare, powdered that bitch, baked it. and it would have been a success.. Quote
sheerider1026 Posted March 1, 2009 Report Posted March 1, 2009 also.. when i do a clear coat on parts, i pull them out of the oven after the first color gets done, and apply the clear while the part is hot, works like a charm, and is called hot flocking.. but be careful, it is easy to apply too much clear and if you do, you will have runs.. hope this helped you out man, Quote
THE GRIM RIPPER Posted March 1, 2009 Author Report Posted March 1, 2009 also.. when i do a clear coat on parts, i pull them out of the oven after the first color gets done, and apply the clear while the part is hot, works like a charm, and is called hot flocking.. but be careful, it is easy to apply too much clear and if you do, you will have runs.. hope this helped you out man, Definitely has.... Im getting an idea of what he did, and Im not to happy right now... I guess you get what you pay for like anything else! Im just wondering If I should let him have another go at it (whether it be this color or a Dormant I picked out, since he said that would lay correctly) OR, Just go get my shit and have some one else do it I guess :shrug: Quote
sheerider1026 Posted March 1, 2009 Report Posted March 1, 2009 it sounds like he is not wanting to try the same color.. i say do the color that you want.. maybe have someone else do the .. or if he wants to give it another try let hime go with it.. i have had parts that have flaws in them, and i redo them to make the customer and me happy.. ask him if he stripped the frame bare.. if not try to see if he wants to strip it down bare.. then he should have NO problems.. it looks like it dodn't stick in places, and was heavy in others.. this is probably from him spraying, and spraying, and spraying and spraying the powder trying to get it to cover completely.. then the outcome was that the places it did stick got too much powder.. it looks like to me that the frame was not prepped correctly.. just like painting, its ALL about prep work (the prep work is the hardest part of powdercoating).. applying the powder to a correctly prepped part is easy.. Quote
boneyardbanshee. Posted March 1, 2009 Report Posted March 1, 2009 Was the base color added directly before the transparent? Transparents are tricky at times. Your gun will affect performane with them. Cheap guns do not have a smooth powder flow and lack voltage adjustability. Transparents need to be laid in a very even coat or splotches will occur. That can happen with the uneven powder flow. Next, second coats need to have a higher voltage to attract the powder. Faraday areas can be a real problem on frames. You actually need to lower the voltage for the powder to go into those areas. Hot flocking will help with this. It appears as if he had trouble with the powder sticking, eveness of the powder, and trouble getting into the faraday areas. If he doesnt have a professional gun I would find someone else. What you want done has a high degree of difficulty for the powder coater. Oh, I do this for a living so yes I do know what I am talking about. How I would have done it (base coat done): Remove frame from oven let cool to around 200 degrees with a low voltage, spray all faraday areas first while frame is still "warm" then turn voltage up and lay and even coat on the reat of the frame. Use a led headlamp to check for thin spots and apply accordingly. Set back in oven. Let heat up untill the powder starts to flow then imediatlly pull and recheck for thin spots. You have to do this as soon as the powder starts to look liquid or it is too late to apply more powder. Once saticfied place back in oven and let the frame heat to 400 degrees. Once it reaches temp leave it in for 10 minuets and pull. Let stand over night and your ready to go. As I said before , this is a professional job that needs to be done by a profesional with profesional equipment. Judging by the pic on his dinning room table he is not. Please dont think I am trying to say he is a hack or I am the absolute god of PC. Just my two cents. I hope you get this worked out, I think it will look sick when done. Quote
THE GRIM RIPPER Posted March 1, 2009 Author Report Posted March 1, 2009 Yeah, damnitt, this guy is in over his head...... Its actually part my fault for not researching this a little more. And I just mapquested your location Boneyard..... Your 2 1/2 hours from me easy, (Lancastor County right?) lol, guess getting you to do it is out of the question unless I shipped it. Out of curiousity, how much would your charge for this job.... From bare frame (that you sand blasted) to base coat, to candy, to clear (if needed) ? Quote
boneyardbanshee. Posted March 1, 2009 Report Posted March 1, 2009 (edited) Well for a powdered frame with a base and a transparent would run about 350. You wouldnt need a clear because transparent colors and candies are tinted clears. A clear on top of that would help protect it and add some depth. That would run about 425. I can PM you a breakdown if you wish. Edited March 1, 2009 by boneyardbanshee. Quote
dragbanshee Posted March 1, 2009 Report Posted March 1, 2009 That sucks, but its going to look killer when done. Good luck with it! Quote
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