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Carb Synching


bansheedad02

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This has probably been asked before, so please point me in the direction of those posts if it has .

 

My son has an '05 Shee with Toomey T-6 pipes. I performed the install per Toomey's instructions (jetting, etc) a couple years ago and the thing ran great. Our first trip of the dune season the bike was not idling properly. We had a boost bottle installed and due to the alignment of the intake ports, it caused the intake boots to stress and crack (unbeknowst to us initially) which caused an overly the lean condition and the idling problem. I tried mucking with the idle screws on the stock carbs which only served to throw things out of whackeven more when I discovered the torn intake boots. I replaced the boots, canned the boost bottle (for now) and manually synched the carbs as close as I could get them. (Also removed the TORS prior to noticing the intake boots) Now the bike pops thru the exhaust on the top end and seems to lose power in that range (3/4 to full open). It doesn't continue to pull all the way through the high-mid to top end like it did before the carbs got out of synch. I know I need to use a set of Vac gauges to get it fully dialed in, but what is the process? How do I connect the gauges to the carbs, and what is the desired range (if there is one) what range gauges do i need to buy, etc?

 

Need help fast, our next trip to the dunes is in two weeks so any help is appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Sheedad

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Yup, I just ordered one for myself today. That tool is a must have.

 

btw- a stupid tip that might help lol... just incase you ddnt know, cause i noticed many people dont, if you have an airbox, no need to remove the carbs to synch, remove the filter from the airbox and look through the holed and you can synch it from your eyes by there...

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btw- a stupid tip that might help lol... just incase you ddnt know, cause i noticed many people dont, if you have an airbox, no need to remove the carbs to synch, remove the filter from the airbox and look through the holed and you can synch it from your eyes by there...

 

Blaster, good point and something I was thinking after I got the airbox off! It does help to have the box removed to get a visual to start with, but with the synch tool in hand, you don't even need to do that. Any additional tuning needed I will be leaving the box on and saving myself some time!

 

Thanks to all for the help especially Wes for making and posting the video. I picked up an air flow synchrometer "that tool in the video" at my local VW shop on the way home from work yesterday and got her purring like a kitten last night. Need to test ride (was too dark to go ripping down the street last night) when i get home today so keep your fingers x'ed.

 

 

 

Thanks again guys.

Edited by bansheedad02
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Its pined in the video section.

 

 

I could be wrong but the popping and not pulling in (3/4 to full open) could be from lean main jets.

 

Will keep that in mind. I think the jetting is OK as I haven't changed anything since re-jetting per Toomey's spec when I did the pipe install. If synching doens't fix the problem, that's where I'll look next tho.

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Will keep that in mind. I think the jetting is OK as I haven't changed anything since re-jetting per Toomey's spec when I did the pipe install. If synching doens't fix the problem, that's where I'll look next tho.

 

 

I just figured i`d mention that before you melt a piston or 2.

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I just figured i`d mention that before you melt a piston or 2.

 

Turns out you were right, but not becuase the jets were the wrong size. Sand (really fine, silica type stuff) was being pulled in from the airbox due to a bad seal on the filter. Got things cleaned up, new filter seal installed and we're back in the sweet spot once again.

 

Greatly appreciate the advice guys.

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