devin4491 Posted January 28, 2009 Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 im trying to figure out the engine i want to build.. im going to start off with a bone stock engine, and i as thinking of putting a 4 mill stroker in it, but after thinking, i dont know if it will be enough for long lol. so how much of a difference is a 4 mill to a 10 mill? is a 10 mill reliable if done right? give me all your input on the best build. idk about getting pv cylinders, pretty expensive, but whats a good drag build, that is reliable and still makes over 80 hp? lol is that possible to be reliable and over 80. all opinions are appreciated. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave I. Posted January 28, 2009 Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 build the biggest motor you can afford to... if you build a 4 you will always wonder what if i had built the 10.......im going on my 3rd motor now because i didnt build the big one from the start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devin4491 Posted January 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 lol thats what i was thinkin.. cuz i know after the first weekend of racing it ont be fast anymore haha. so i just want to get inputs on builds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onesickcrewcab Posted January 28, 2009 Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 If you can afford to build a 10mil I would.. Any motor can be reliable if built correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devin4491 Posted January 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 If you can afford to build a 10mil I would.. Any motor can be reliable if built correctly. ok.. so who has a 10 mill that wouldnt mind listing out what your engine has done to it so i can start getting an idea of what i need??? )) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onesickcrewcab Posted January 28, 2009 Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 You should probably pick a builder and give them a call. There are plenty of them around this board, and plenty that aren't on here. My porting was done by LC performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devin4491 Posted January 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 they got a good builder that is about an hour from me, and he does awesome work on shees, but he is slowwww and expensiveeee.. i literally was calling his shop everyday for 2 weeks left like 5 messages and he just got back to me and i've been told by a bunch of people who go to him hes lazyy. lol so i think hes out the question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2slow350 Posted January 28, 2009 Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 (edited) If 80hp is what you are going for, a 4mil cub should easily do the job and be very reliable.. If your already wanting something reliable, you better go with a smaller motor in my opinion even tho bigger engines can be too they just cost more and take more time to rebuild if you have trouble.. Hell, depends on what kind of 4mil too, a 4mil dm can take you well over a 100hp and you could run with some of the bigger boys.. Jmo Edited January 28, 2009 by 2slow350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 28, 2009 Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 I will be happy to list out everything in my 10 mil. It has been by far the most reliable motor I've ever had, and it's had the living daylights abused out of it by a dozen riders, literally. Here's the thing....which I didn't read. What is your budget? What do you already have in the way of clutch, trans, intakes, exhaust, carbs, swingarm, chain, etc. Lastly, do you want to dune mostly and race occasionally, or race mostly, dune occasionally....dune only or race only. You can make a bike that does everything pretty well...but a bike that is setup for drag will normally be faster. That same bike will not be a duner.... If I took my lightened chassis out in the dunes with a 14 over arm...well, lets just say it would be a Youtube classic with a lot of hits real quick...LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devin4491 Posted January 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 I will be happy to list out everything in my 10 mil. It has been by far the most reliable motor I've ever had, and it's had the living daylights abused out of it by a dozen riders, literally. Here's the thing....which I didn't read. What is your budget? What do you already have in the way of clutch, trans, intakes, exhaust, carbs, swingarm, chain, etc. Lastly, do you want to dune mostly and race occasionally, or race mostly, dune occasionally....dune only or race only. You can make a bike that does everything pretty well...but a bike that is setup for drag will normally be faster. That same bike will not be a duner.... If I took my lightened chassis out in the dunes with a 14 over arm...well, lets just say it would be a Youtube classic with a lot of hits real quick...LOL. lol... i dont really know what my budget is right now, just however much money i get when it comes... but im starting off with a stock engine.. i am going to have some stellar +0 +3.5 drag a arms and a 10 over ladder style swinger.. im waiting on those to be made.. i have a modquad 28" drag axle, and before i get everything powdercoated, im goin to get the frame lightened as much as i can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheefreak Posted January 28, 2009 Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 In the next month or so I will be selling either a Mccoy 10 mil cub or an a+s 10 mill cub. Both setups will have monoblock fully ported, pistons, head, and alky cut domes and will be polished to a mirror finish... I just have to decide which one I want to keep LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTOYS Posted January 28, 2009 Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 Bang for the buck the 421 Cub is hard to beat. I have a 10mm Cub as im a heavier rider and needed the torque. We have done 421s that will definetly hang or beat 10mms or bigger. A 10mm will be about $800-1,000 MORE to build than the 4mm and the gain is only about 8-10hp. Either way over stock this will be a fun build and wild ride! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 28, 2009 Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 JT and I are both "husky" riders... He has a very well setup and fast 4 mil cub done by FAST. It runs good...it runs nearly the same times as my 10 mil. My 10 mil has never run against his ported (it's on it's way back to me now), but I maintain my stance good porting on a cub is worth a handful of HP. When JT and I both put lighter riders on our bikes, same thing. Times are very, very close...often less than a tenth. He and I both have the lightweight goodies, chassis, drag axles, etc. He finally got enough tire for his bike... I think JT will agree with me, and Jeff probably will too...that for a heavier rider it is easier to go fast and go fast more consistently on a 10 mil. They are a little more forgiving than a 4 mil. You have to decide if the extra money for a 10 mil crank and case trenching is worth that....that is the difference. That 4 mil is a great bang for the buck for sure. Some will tell you to run big bore pipes or small bore on EITHER motor...so, that's a non-factor. Talk to YOUR BUILDER on which to run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devin4491 Posted January 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 yeah i weigh 140... so im skinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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