Banshee_350_Twin Posted December 10, 2008 Report Posted December 10, 2008 I noticed that my banshee is not responsive as used is used to be, i dont know if its a jetting issue or not. top end has been rebuilt 3 weeks ago ( 4 trips on new top end) it takes some time for the engine to scream. my jets are 310 and 27 on stock carbs. my mods are dmc aliends, k&n pods, vforce2 and timing plate (+4 advance). Im thinking of boaring my stock carbs , is it worth doing? thanks Quote
BUILDER Posted December 10, 2008 Report Posted December 10, 2008 I noticed that my banshee is not responsive as used is used to be, i dont know if its a jetting issue or not. top end has been rebuilt 3 weeks ago ( 4 trips on new top end) it takes some time for the engine to scream. my jets are 310 and 27 on stock carbs. my mods are dmc aliends, k&n pods, vforce2 and timing plate (+4 advance). Im thinking of boaring my stock carbs , is it worth doing? thanks A little more info please? Is it worse since the new top end or was it doing this before you rebuilt it? What elevation are you riding at? Quote
wacko2000 Posted December 10, 2008 Report Posted December 10, 2008 After you rebuilt the top-end, did you do a compression test? Quote
Banshee_350_Twin Posted December 11, 2008 Author Report Posted December 11, 2008 after the rebuild it was fine for a while, but at the last trip i noticed that. i tried it today and it is the same + 1 fouled plug ( left cylinder ). Compression was somewhere between 130 and 140 in both cylinder. sea level and the temp is between 55f and 65f Quote
BUILDER Posted December 11, 2008 Report Posted December 11, 2008 after the rebuild it was fine for a while, but at the last trip i noticed that. i tried it today and it is the same + 1 fouled plug ( left cylinder ). Compression was somewhere between 130 and 140 in both cylinder. sea level and the temp is between 55f and 65f Your jetting should be really close to were it needs to be. If it was fine when you first rebuilt it then you do not have a jetting issue because that will not just change for no reason. I personaly dont think it is worth boring stock carbs but other people may disaggre with that. If your bike does not have a port job you really have no need for bigger bore carbs. Sounds like to me you may have an electrical issue. You may have a weak coil on or a stator problem. How did it run after you replaced the fouled plug? Quote
Banshee_350_Twin Posted December 11, 2008 Author Report Posted December 11, 2008 Your jetting should be really close to were it needs to be. If it was fine when you first rebuilt it then you do not have a jetting issue because that will not just change for no reason. I personaly dont think it is worth boring stock carbs but other people may disaggre with that. If your bike does not have a port job you really have no need for bigger bore carbs. Sounds like to me you may have an electrical issue. You may have a weak coil on or a stator problem. How did it run after you replaced the fouled plug? i pulled off the carbs, cleaned them, replaced the plug and its better than before. its def. an electrical issue, i thinks its time to replace the stator. thanks all for the help Quote
dajogejr Posted December 11, 2008 Report Posted December 11, 2008 Before you replace the stator, remove the coil wire end caps, cut the wire ends and replace them with NGK plug ends. It's less than a 15 dollar fix. DO NOT BUY A RICKY STATOR stator...they are junk. Get a used OEM. Also when you remove the flywheel, be sure to use the correct thread in removal tool, NOT a jaw type puller. Shake the flywheel when you remove it, make sure it doesn't sound like a salt shaker...if so, the magnets inside are broken. Replace the flywheel.... Quote
Banshee_350_Twin Posted December 11, 2008 Author Report Posted December 11, 2008 Before you replace the stator, remove the coil wire end caps, cut the wire ends and replace them with NGK plug ends. It's less than a 15 dollar fix. DO NOT BUY A RICKY STATOR stator...they are junk. Get a used OEM. Also when you remove the flywheel, be sure to use the correct thread in removal tool, NOT a jaw type puller. Shake the flywheel when you remove it, make sure it doesn't sound like a salt shaker...if so, the magnets inside are broken. Replace the flywheel.... thanks for the tips, i have theflywheel puller, it came with my timing plate. Thanks again Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.