some87 Posted November 18, 2008 Report Posted November 18, 2008 i just got my engine rebuild and rejeted the carbs while i was in there. now that i got it put back together its leaking gas slowly and i have to hold the throttle down a little bit to get the play out or else it will stall. i need help fast and want to go rideing tomorrow so i might just take it to the dealer and get them to fix it. i checked the floats on the carb and they were working just fine. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!! Quote
AKheathen Posted November 18, 2008 Report Posted November 18, 2008 i just got my engine rebuild and rejeted the carbs while i was in there. now that i got it put back together its leaking gas slowly and i have to hold the throttle down a little bit to get the play out or else it will stall. i need help fast and want to go rideing tomorrow so i might just take it to the dealer and get them to fix it. i checked the floats on the carb and they were working just fine. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!! did you flip the carbs upside down and blow through the fuel line to see if it holds pressure or get the fuel and vent tubes mixed up? if it's a slow leak out of one carb, and you're hard up to go riddin, you still can. i know my needles are shot, and i rode that way, cus the dealer is closed sun; mon. it should run about half a min or so on the fuel in the bowls. i just don't let it sit and idle much and shut the fuel off when i stop a few seconds before i kill the engine. :shrug: i'm gonna getintake, jet kit, needles and seats and other knick-knacks tomorrow ne ways Quote
1996dragshee Posted November 18, 2008 Report Posted November 18, 2008 pull the carbs off and clean them,dont half ass it either.take the floats off and everything spray that shit down with brake clean and throw them back together.Theres got to be a piece of sand or dirt stuck in where the float needle seats down all the way so its sticking.Even if you take the bowl off and look and it seems to be fine doesn't mean there isn't shit in there Quote
some87 Posted November 18, 2008 Author Report Posted November 18, 2008 so it doesnt look like im going riding tomorrow then? well at first it was a fast leak then i took off the bowl and played with the float and then it slowed down alot. but after i took it off the other carb started to leak. and by any chance would somebody be able to tell me which screw is the air screw? it had a pic in the jetting kit but i dont know it its the right one. Quote
1996dragshee Posted November 18, 2008 Report Posted November 18, 2008 Well if they each started overflowing at different times like you just stated then it probably is your hieght adjustment.The air screw is the flathead screw on the left side of each carb.If it's not leaking that bad you can still ride it...just don't let it sit at idle for long like someone stated above,and when you stop to rest just shut your fuel off.I've ridden way worse on my trail bike than what you probably have lol Quote
some87 Posted November 18, 2008 Author Report Posted November 18, 2008 now just to fix the idle problem. any info on how to fix that and where to get some carb rebuild kits? Quote
1996dragshee Posted November 18, 2008 Report Posted November 18, 2008 now just to fix the idle problem. any info on how to fix that and where to get some carb rebuild kits? Assuming you have stock carbs..If you still have the t.o.r.s on there then your idle screws are located on top of those(dime shaped flathead screws on top of each carb.And if you have those still,spend the 60 bucks to get the kit and eliminate that crap..it will save you the hastle later.If you don't have tors on your carbs there will be a brass idle screw tapped into the outside of each carb.Turn em in and it will raise the idle etc. Why do you need a rebuild kit though? Quote
dirtfreak Posted November 18, 2008 Report Posted November 18, 2008 so it doesnt look like im going riding tomorrow then? well at first it was a fast leak then i took off the bowl and played with the float and then it slowed down alot. but after i took it off the other carb started to leak. and by any chance would somebody be able to tell me which screw is the air screw? it had a pic in the jetting kit but i dont know it its the right one. dude you put your motor back together and your thinking about taking it to the dealer for a carburetor problem.check your float levels,also if your still running the tors ebay has the tors removal kits i seen today for 38 dollars.take your carb bowls off blow carb cleaner and air through where the fuel lines go to the carbs,may have some old fuel built up in them,did your motor sit up for a while b 4 you put it back together.should be a simple fix.your pilot screws on the sides of the carbs should be between turn and a half to 2 turns out for a good starting point. Quote
some87 Posted November 18, 2008 Author Report Posted November 18, 2008 Assuming you have stock carbs..If you still have the t.o.r.s on there then your idle screws are located on top of those(dime shaped flathead screws on top of each carb.And if you have those still,spend the 60 bucks to get the kit and eliminate that crap..it will save you the hastle later.If you don't have tors on your carbs there will be a brass idle screw tapped into the outside of each carb.Turn em in and it will raise the idle etc. Why do you need a rebuild kit though? need a rebuild kit so i can get the gaskets for the bowls and everything. and i do still have the tors on mine >.> lol. i have only had the bike for about 3 weeks and was planning to do all this stuff to it before the engine blew. so when i get payed ill get the new cable Quote
some87 Posted November 18, 2008 Author Report Posted November 18, 2008 Assuming you have stock carbs..If you still have the t.o.r.s on there then your idle screws are located on top of those(dime shaped flathead screws on top of each carb.And if you have those still,spend the 60 bucks to get the kit and eliminate that crap..it will save you the hastle later.If you don't have tors on your carbs there will be a brass idle screw tapped into the outside of each carb.Turn em in and it will raise the idle etc. Why do you need a rebuild kit though? would i turn the screw in or out? Quote
1996dragshee Posted November 18, 2008 Report Posted November 18, 2008 would i turn the screw in or out? depends on how it runs right now man?Turn it IN to richen the air/fuel mixture or OUT to lean it out... Quote
some87 Posted November 19, 2008 Author Report Posted November 19, 2008 ok so i took it out for a drive and it ran fine. after a little while it stoped leaking so im happy with that and i got the idle set also. thanks alot guys for all the help Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.