regalrocket Posted November 5, 2008 Report Share Posted November 5, 2008 Ok here it goes. The machine was bought used. It had pipes and stuff on it, but I wanted stock. I reinstalled the stock pipes, and rebuilt the carbs with a moose kit. The machine has no tors. I got it running, but it is lean at idle. I raised the needle to its highest position, and that helped, but I also had to crank in the idle air bleeds to just 1/2 turn out. When its idling, even after it is warmed up, if i pull the choke it increase its idle RPM signficantly. So I assume its still lean on the bottom. The kit came with a 200 main jet and the stock pilot and air jet. I am assuming a larger pilot, but don't know where to go with it. I thought stock settings were fat, so this is kinda confusing me. Thanks for the help in advanced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted November 6, 2008 Report Share Posted November 6, 2008 How do you know its lean at idle? Is the engine warmed up? YOu can't tell anything until it gets up to operating temperature..and I would think it would be impossible for the pilot to be lean with stock pipes. You're not running E85 or some other ethanol blend are you? My stocker with T5s is a bitch to start with stock pilots with only a 10% ethanol blend. Was always fine before with stock pilots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalrocket Posted November 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2008 How do you know its lean at idle? Is the engine warmed up? YOu can't tell anything until it gets up to operating temperature..and I would think it would be impossible for the pilot to be lean with stock pipes. You're not running E85 or some other ethanol blend are you? My stocker with T5s is a bitch to start with stock pilots with only a 10% ethanol blend. Was always fine before with stock pilots. The major issue is getting it to start. I rebuilt both carbs and replaced the choke. The choke works (I think at least, when its warm, if I pull it the idle raises up a considerable ammount). It does also bog a bit when rolling into the throttle, then you can feel the needle start to work and 1/4-3/4 feel great. I am up here in NYS, where the fuel does have ethanol in it. That could cause it to run lean, needing more pilot jet. I have even gone so far as to replace the reeds with new stockers today, just to make sure that leaking reads wasn't the issue. The cold start issue is my real concern. It absolutly will not start without out wetting the air cleaner with some fuel. Once running it will idle fine, but again, if I add choke the idle increase, which leads me to think that it isn't getting enough fuel at idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted November 6, 2008 Report Share Posted November 6, 2008 The major issue is getting it to start. I rebuilt both carbs and replaced the choke. The choke works (I think at least, when its warm, if I pull it the idle raises up a considerable ammount). It does also bog a bit when rolling into the throttle, then you can feel the needle start to work and 1/4-3/4 feel great. I am up here in NYS, where the fuel does have ethanol in it. That could cause it to run lean, needing more pilot jet. I have even gone so far as to replace the reeds with new stockers today, just to make sure that leaking reads wasn't the issue. The cold start issue is my real concern. It absolutly will not start without out wetting the air cleaner with some fuel. Once running it will idle fine, but again, if I add choke the idle increase, which leads me to think that it isn't getting enough fuel at idle. That's exactly what mine is doing, minus the idling problem. Sorry I didn't read your original post better..you had already addressed 2 of the questions I asked.. You could always go to a bigger pilot and see if that helps...that's what I plan on doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalrocket Posted November 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2008 After doing extensive reading, I found one flaw. When I reassembled my carbs, I did notice the brass tube in the one bowl, and read that it goes on the left (choke) carb. Well last night I did more and read about a jet in that bowl. I didn't notice it at assembly, but thought I would pull it and check last night. I had also read that there are two bowls, 1-1 and 1-2, with the 1-1 having that jet and going on the choke carb. I pulled the bowl, saw 1-1, cleaned it, but didn't get the carb cleaner to go threw the area the jet should of been. Flash foward to today, I looked at a spare set of carbs I have, and bigger than s__t there is a jet in one. I swap out bowls after cleaning the proper one, and install it. I think the choke is working better now. I will let it cool off to see for sure. What I learned. Look in the actual bowl, and the cast in passage on the wall of the bowl is a air bleed style jet. You can unscrew it and clean it. This goes on the choke or left carb. 1-1 and 1-2 markings and brass tubes don't mean anything, and they can have both, and still not be the bowl that has the jet and goes on the left. I'm learning alot from this board, its got me 90 percent there. I just ordered a nice handfull of jets from F.A.S.T. and included in that is some pilots, so I will see how well a 27.5 helps (i'm thinking the ethanol blended fuel up here is leaning it out a bit. I will come back with some feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalrocket Posted November 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2008 Well, after sitting for a while cold. It still doesn't wana start. I really hope pilot jets will help this, cause its down right frustrating to kick and kick with no fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalrocket Posted November 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 Well after doing more reading, I decided to do a compression check to see if that was an issue, even though it was said to have ben recently rebuilt. After buying the tester, I did the check, and only got 90psi. So I guess this thing needs a new top end. great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 Well after doing more reading, I decided to do a compression check to see if that was an issue, even though it was said to have ben recently rebuilt. After buying the tester, I did the check, and only got 90psi. So I guess this thing needs a new top end. great. Damn that sucks. Are you holding the throttle wide open and kicking the crap out of it until the needle quits moving?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalrocket Posted November 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 Damn that sucks. Are you holding the throttle wide open and kicking the crap out of it until the needle quits moving?? Yea, I made sure it got a good chance to come up to a good PSI. I just pulled the head and jugs. The head had a TON of high temp silicone on it. It was smushed into the cooling passageways and I have to believe that it might of been part of the issue. The bores had no cross hatch at all on them. I have most of the parts good and clean now, I am going to true all the surfaces, and re-ring it. I hope that helps. I thought it was a little too easy to kick over, this might of been why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalrocket Posted November 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2008 Ok, update. I thought I would be able to just re-ring it. Not so. After closer examination the left piston had burned oil on the bottom of the dome (crankcase side, which means a really hot dome) and after closer inspection, it had a cracked skirt. The reason I removed the FMF fatties was cause it wasn't tuned properly, and it looks like the supposed new rebuild was trashed due to lots of lean running. Both sides had blue and purple ring ends as well, and the top ring was pretty thin. I bought stock rings at first, until I realized that this had Weisco's. Personally, I think the stock rings are better, but all I could get is 2 more Weisco sets, so thats what I went with. After stripping, painting and honing the cylinders, filing true the head (last guy used a wire wheel on it and made a mess of it, hence the silicone he gooped everywhere), I put it all back together. I did an initial conpression check, and got 115 with no break-in (its a cheap tester, not yet calibrated, so take it with a grain of salt). It feels amazingly better. I'm waiting on more parts, but hopefully she will be running early this week, and I can see if it needs more work to get it to start, or if this fixed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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