NorthWisBanshee

You still have the Banshee? I have a 98 Grizzly 600 with the 640 big bore kit, Twin air filter kit with adaptor(no lid) White bros e-series pipe, detroit gearless locker, hand and thumb warmers, windshield with light( its adapted from a Yamaha Phazer snowmobile) talk to me.

Your right on both acounts, I live in Northern Wisconsin and I have a Banshee. I was looking at Yamaha's websit and I couldn't find a part # for the studs; just the whole hub. If they press out I'll take one to the auto parts store to match it up. On the round housing I could use a little more info than just," its not to hard to do?" I'm a pretty fair welder, but is there a kit with the housing and carrier or what, and where to get it, ect. I'm looking for a winter project. Around here we only have about a month of summer left!!

Hey guys, does anyone know if you can press out the front wheel studs out of the hubs, or do you have to get a new hub? I haven't taken it apart yet to look. On an unrelated topic, does anyone convert the stock swingarm to the round housing style? Thanks.

Thanks for the reply. I have some indexing washers and will give it a try.

I was wondering if anyone out there indexes their spark plugs and if they do where do you place the electrode. I was thinking it would be best, if it faced directly backwards facing the intake ports? What do you think?

Checking the main jets at idle? That choke on / off method will only tell you if your air screw or pilot jet setting is rich or lean. That won't tell you anything about the main jet! Good luck.

Big Blue, I have trouble reading your posts, all I can see is your avatar! WOW!

I agree about the cost issue. I am im the process of rebuilding my Shee now and will most likly get the adjustable stator plate, but isn't the Dyna FS ignition supposed to give you a better advance curve or curves.

Hi all, I have a question about timing. I was talking to a engine builder and he told me that its better to run a ignition system with a revised advance curve than to just advance it 4 degree or whatever. On a engine modified for more top end RPM, after a certain RPM, the engine needs less timing and needs to start retarding, and if you use a degree key or advance the stator plate you will have too much timing(advance) at the top of the timing curve. Does this sound right to you guys.

except for the top speed 60? Not!

Where can you get Metalcast paint?

Are there two different types of TDR reeds?

Hi all, I'm going to port out the stock reed cages. Can anyone tell me what are the best reeds for ported cages. Will the Boysen dual stage reed be good?

Hi all, I was looking in the "online auction watch" section, and saw the topic of pipes on e-bay. The pipes are SLP's, has anyone run these yet, the dyno #'s look to good to be true.

Thanks for the replys. It looks from the picture that the Vito's piston has a thicker skirt. I heard that Vito's early pistons had thinner skirts; I believe thats why some people had skirt problems, but I could be wrong. Do any of the better engine builders use them?

Hi everyone, I have a question about Vito's power pistons. In their ad they say that these pistons are the ones for a ported motor, and they add 6 hp midrange with more low and midrange power. I would like to know how these make more power; are the port windows larger or what. I can see how the Super Stock pistons work, kind of like a poor mans port job. But what about the Power pistons, I'm going to get port work done and they(Vito's) say that the power pistons are the one's to use. Also, how durable are the Vito's pistons, or should I stay with the Wiseco's. Thanks.

Hi everyone, is there a way or formula to figure out the octane requirement of a given engine. Say you have X #of cc's, or bore, porting layout, pipe, and dome size, and yes deck height. Does the octane requirement change with port timing? Or is it the deck height. Can you figure compression ratio on a two stroke like you would on a four stroke; but start your cylinder volume at the place where the ports are closed and then add the dome volume. Or can you figure it out by the PSI reading you get from a compression gauge. Any answers would be greatly appreciated. Sorry one last thing, when domes are custom cut, are all you doing is changing the compression?