Kamajii

Both stock cylinders, no porting, standard bore. Stock carbs (VM26SS), but can't tell what it was like before the rebuild, did not run at all back then when I got her 🙂 I manufactured my own pipes (basically a 1:1 rebuild of the stock ones, but in stainless). I hope there is no nest in the elbows, though... Choke tube is on. If on the Banshee they did not do any special effect slides, then they should be in the right way (cut out facing to the filter, as usual). Bowls are correct, the one with the choke jet goes on the left carb that has the choke lever on it (that was off before the rebuild, among a gazillion of other things).

Yup.. before installing them I tied them together with wire and heated them with a torch - they read almost exactly the same.

Hi, I am about to finish my Banshee build, now I'm puzzled with the carbs. I have EGT installed and I see the right cylinder running about 80°C cooler than the left one. Also in the lower RPMs it takes a little to get its act together, stuttering a bit. At first and telling from the spark plugs I thought it was the fuel/air ratio, so I went leaner on the cooler cylinder, with little effect. Then I gradually tightened the throttle cable on the cooler cylinder, thus not changing the fuel/air ratio but increasing the cylinder load altogether. And, surprise, the stuttering went away and the temperatures equalized. In the end, I hat the slider in the right carb set about 1,5mm higher than the slider in the left one. Then I readjusted the carb slides to equal height again (to make the problem reappear) and went looking for a reason. So I checked this: swapped left/right exhaust pipes (tailpipes only, as they are custom built. elbows are stock) -> no change swapped left/right carbs (choke removed/blocked) -> no change swapped spark plugs and ignition coil leads -> no change checked float levels (first with calipers, then with transparent tubing on the drain studs) -> equal hosed down everything with brake cleaner -> no change in RPM, so probably no air leaks, including the L/H crank seal behind the stator compression tested -> both cylinders equal So now I am through with about anything that I could probably measure and check... What on earth...? 🥶 Best regards

Hi everybody, I just recently got my hands on a 1998 Banshee and I am currently rebuilding it (near stock) from the ground up. After having entirely disassembled it I stripped the frame and upon further inspection I was quite stunned by the overall quality of the welds. Please note that they're stock, no repair welding has been done. As you can see the weld beads run rather vigurously, and not consistent at all. Sometimes the "same" welds on opposing locations in the frame look totally different. Generally, there is weld splatter all over the frame. On a couple of welds there is quite a bit of porousity. I gave one a try in an attempt to re-fuse it (I'm a TIG welder), but the bead seems to be contaminated down to the metal. The below picture is stock, not reworked: I ground down one of the larger blobs on a bead, and it is full of pores (that was not even visible until I ground it): On many welds there is a lot of excess material that did not fuse anymore. Partly this only concerns the run-out of the bead, but on some welds there is a ton of un-fused material layered on top: So generally speaking, as I do own a couple of other Yamahas, I have never experienced such a range of catastrophic welds 🤨 Am I missing something...? King regards, Sven... from Germany 🥶 BTW, I'll try to document a little on the project on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sven_knst_wrk/