ShelbyVoodoo

I forgot to mention that with the new to me shee, I let it cool over night and then tried to start it with the choke and kicked it a bunch of times with the choke on and then pulled the plugs and they were dry. So its like the choke isnt working at all. Compression tests fine. It runs like a well tuned shee once its started. It idles perfectly as well which is really weird considering it won't start. The only thing I can think of is the choke circuit is messed up because of the choke being loose and not seating all the way.

I tried 27.5 on my shee without the big bore and it had a very difficult time starting and had a lean bog. So I bumped it up to 30s and it runs perfectly. Again I run straight 104 octane T2 as well so I need bigger jets because of the high octane as well.

Hey everyone. I have learned a lot here and have read everything that I can find about jetting. I just need to make sure that I am chasing the right issue. I have two Banshees now. I live at 5500ft and its been in the 30s and 40s here. Its bone dry with the occasional rain and snow. I picked up my second Banshee that unfortunately found its way from a caring owner to some morons who didn't treat it well. I rebuilt the motor with a freshly blasted case. Mint condition like new motor. The bike is .80 over with a Pro Head with 22cc domes. TORS delete, FMF Gold Series with FMF silencers. Wiseco pistons, +5 timing, V Force reeds. Bike has a trail/clean up port. The boots are mint, the carb equalizer has been deleted. I inspected everything and everything is like new. I rebuilt the carbs to like new and replaced everything besides the floats themselves. Floats are set at correct height. I have 30 pilots and 300 mains and the needle is third clip from the top. It has the red needles, whatever those are called. My first shee has the same set up less the red needles, cool head and big bore and runs 30 pilot and 290 mains. It starts the first kick and runs perfectly. I just finished rebuilding the new to me shee. The coil was bad on it so I bought a new coil and after getting it all together. The bike is extremely hard to start. I think that this might be related to the choke. The bowls are on the correct carbs and the slides are facing the correct way. Synched them with the sync tool from FAST. The fuel line between carbs is mint and connected properly. The choke plunger on my running shee seats all the way down into the carb. There is a small bar at the end of the plunger that fits into a small hole at the end of the choke channel. On my new to me shee the plunger will not go all the way into the channel. It feels like that small bar only goes halfway into the hole. So when the choke is closed, it still looks like it is out about 3mm or so, no matter what I do. I ordered a new plunger. If I kick the bike over and over, with the choke out all of the way, it will eventually start, But even if its hot from riding, it will not start again unless I kick the hell out of it or pull start it. Once the bike is running it idles fine and revs out nicely. I took it for a 3 hour trail ride after I got it back together and heat cycled the motor several times and it ran amazingly well. Beyond the left silencer burning out old coolant and spooge for a while which caused a nice smoke show even with the bike off, it runs perfectly. Could the hard starting be caused by the choke plunger? It just seems like it does not work. I checked fuel lines, checked fuel in carbs, checked the bowls etc and its getting fuel to the carbs, but unless I kick the hell out of it or pull it the bike doesnt seem to get fuel with the choke in any position. The choke just does not seem to be doing its job. Again the motor is in like new condition with all new gaskets and seals. I have completely rebuilt several two strokes and had to initially replace the choke on my first shee because it wouldnt stay out at all. Any other suggestions beyond the choke?

Will a Pro Design Cool Head thats on stock cylinders fit a Cheetah cylinder head? I am looking for 68mm cylinders but I don't want to have to buy another cool head.

Hey everyone, I picked up another Banshee. I got a great deal on a nice bike that needs some work. Rod is welded to the actuator and the top end needs to be replaced. I pulled the motor apart and it looks like the right side piston was killed due to poor mix or cold starting. The piston was smeared all over the inside of the cylinder and the rings on that side are worn badly. I think whoever killed it didn't put premix in the fuel and thought they could just fill it up with 91 and go. I think I can hone it out and just pick up some pistons, but I may just replace everything with a fresh 421 build. The carbs were caked with dirt as well from sitting outside for a bit so I need to rebuild them as well. The heads are ported but I don't specifically know what port. I looked at the numbers on the pistons and they are the Wiseco 513m06600. So they are 66mm pistons right? I measured the stroke to the best of my ability and it seems like it is stock right at 54mm. It has a Pro Design Coolhead on it with 22cc domes. The bike has a brand new Wiseco clutch basket with new fibers and steels. The crank is solid with zero up and down play. The left side piston is barely used so it looks like the bike was killed not too long after a complete rebuild. I havent opened the case but I can peer through the oil holes and the gears and everything look great. Still going to pull it all apart and clean it as there are aluminum shavings down in the case from the right side piston being smeared against the cylinder wall. The idler gear bushing went out and it ate the C clip. The previous owner kept kicking it over and over and because the idler gear was off, the kickstart assembly stop spun counterclockwise about 270 degrees and slammed into the slot that the spring goes into. It broke off a small chunk of the top of the "C" in the spring channel. I repaired the idler gear bushing and installed the kickstart assembly and it held in place. I didn't put it back together enough to try and kick it but it seems that the spring stays in that slot still, even with the top of the "C" broken. I may JB weld the "C" back as this area should be fine for that right? The cylinder doesn't seem to have any major damage, just piston smeared all over it from the cold seizure it had or lube failure seizure. I have a proper hone. But I may just buy a stroker crank and heads. So, that being said. If I were to put it back together as is, I should just hone it, replace gaskets and seals as needed, clean out the bottom end and get the same pistons? I know this has been asked a million times but there are a million different answers. What do I need to buy to make it a 421 serval? 4 mil crank long rod? Wiseco long rod pistons? What size for 421? DM head or OEM heads bored out to 68mm right? 22 domes will work right? Thats all I need besides the supporting gaskets/seals? The bike has the OEM carbs with V FOrce reeds and full FMF.

I will definitely cut down the idle area. Thats a good idea. It wasnt done on these and you can tell. I pulled the little jet out and it was a tiny little jet like half the size of the pilot jet but I didn't see any numbers on it. I should have the choke plunger replacement soon. I have not used a vacuum sync but I am going to get one. Which one do you suggest? I see the one on F.A.S.T is not very expensive. Is that a good tool? it definitely seems like the carbs arent synced up even though the slides go up at the same time. I made sure of it and have adjusted them several times to make sure the dot is in the window for both, but again that only happens when you open the throttle up. The idle screws are not the same depth in. It seems like the 1-1 idle screw works correctly and hits the slide with about 4 turns to go. The 1-2 idle screw hits the slide with like 1.5 turns to go. So I guess I will just need to make sure they both are cut the same length and use a vacuum sync.

When I turn the idle in a half turn from where I have it set to ride, the bike will start and will idle and stay on, but only after I start it the first time with a little throttle. Then I can shut it off, even if not warm all the way and kick it once and it will stay on. But when the bike warms up the idle goes up and I have to back it down a quarter or half turn.

So I received the 27.5 pilot jets. I installed them and again I cleaned the carbs thoroughly. Both carbs, as well as measured the float bowl height with digital calipers. They are set at 21mm. The bike starts, but again only with a little throttle. I think my choke tube is toast so I ordered a new one. Once the bike is started with the throttle, as long as I have the idle up high enough, the bike will stay on. But if I don't have the idle set higher than normal, the bike will die. I believe the timing is set at either +4 or +6 degrees. I can't really tell what maps are on the dynatek ignition and I don't have the programmer for it. I had to reset the air screws yesterday because of the bigger jets. They are out 1.25 turns and the bike runs well with that. The only issue is starting the bike initially. I have to give it a little throttle or it just burbles and dies.

I have FMF headers and a few other mods. My bike has 25 pilots and 230 mains at 5000ft. My pilot is too lean so I am going to a 27.5. Post your elevation and temperatures. Buffalo-Banshee is probably right on the money.

So the needle is all the way down into the carb? Seems like you need to go down in size on the pilot. Check the air screws to see how far out they are. If they are more than 2.5 turns out you need to go leaner on the pilot. The needle should be on the third or fourth clip from the top and the air screw should be no more than 2.5 turns out in that configuration.

I have no idea if its ported. I am thinking that it was. I have 30 pilots that I tried but it was definitely too rich. So I went outside and cranked the idle all the way up. The air screws were at 3/4th turn. Even with the choke it would not start. I am pretty sure the choke is toast. It is a Vitos choke. I can see that now because I took it out. I will get an OEM choke. I left the idle cranked up all the way and turned the air screws all the way in and kicked it and it wouldnt start. So I backed the screws out 1/8th of a turn. The engine was loaded up with fuel from me kicking it so the first kick had some heavy compression so I just slowly kicked it until it felt normal and then gave it a nice kick and it started and stayed on. The idle was a little high so I backed it off a half turn and it died. So I set the idle at a quarter out and kicked it and it stayed on and idled fine. So that tells me that the 27.5's will most likely fix it. Odd that it even tries to start though. My bikes won't even chug if they are too lean. I have a lot of stuff that I want to order. Who should I buy from? I am going by Yamaha today to see if I can get some new reeds. When I get a new bike I replace all wear items and if I pull something off that is still good I keep it as a spare. I am shopping for the below. Pretty much redoing the entire bike. I picked up a new front master cylinder/perch/lever because the morons who had the bike stripped the screws on the perch so badly that it couldnt even be tapped to the next size. I replaced the clutch cable and the throttle cables. Do we get any discount from anyone? I want to see if I can get a package deal since I am ordering a ton at once. Billet Clutch Basket Clutch Fibers Push Rod with ceramic ball Super Cub Kit Wheels Tires Full Suspension A Arms -2 Swingarm. Chain Sprockets Rotors Hubs Radiator Mounts Grommets Exhaust coupler Maybe new carbs instead of a rebuild kit, especially if I am going super cub. Possibly Lectron

When the air screw is all the way in, it does the same thing when I try and start it. I kick it and it starts like it wants to but immediately dies. It doesnt bog out. It growls a little, like they usually do before they come to life, but instead of starting and idling it just dies off. I made sure the bowls were on the right carb. I went through this site and others for several hours looking for answers. I finally posted. I am going to go by Yamaha later and see if I can get some reeds. I think the dealer here stocks accessories at the shop. When I get the 27.5 jets I will install them and see if that works. If not, I will probably order a stock CDI. I literally cannot tell any difference with the Dynatek installed. The bike feels the same on all maps. Before I moved the needle up a notch there was a bog and then the power came on like a light switch. I moved the needle and now there is only a tiny bit of hesitation before the power slams on and the front wheels lift up. I know its not the fuel because both of my bikes run very well on the same mixture. My RM250 has a bit of pipe bang when using 91. With my mix its very smooth, even for a two stroke. Its also very fast. Same with the KX250. Both of them start very easily. When they are cold it takes a couple of priming kicks and then they start no issue at all with the Lectrons. I also checked the spark and put new plugs in it with .30 gap on both sides. NGK OEM plugs. I am ordering a new choke tube, carb rebuilds etc from Vitos, unless I can find a better deal local or online somewhere.

It wont start without the throttle at all. I am going to order a new choke tube. It is in correctly but falls in easily so that may be it. I took the carbs off and cleaned them thoroughly including each jet individually. When I give it a little throttle and it starts with the idle turned up, it idles higher than its supposed to to stay on. I should have the 27.5 pilots in pretty soon. I will toss those in. I did notice one thing on the carbs, it seems like the idle screw on the left carb, the one with the choke, may have been installed a little off. You can't twist it in very far before it bottoms out. Meaning that when I sync the carbs and move the idle screws until they touch the slides, you can screw the right idle adjustment in like 3.5 turns before it is all the way up. The left one you can only screw in like 1.75 times before its all the way up.

I picked up an 04 Shee for a good deal recently and seem to have an odd issue with the bike. I run a mix of race fuel in all of my bikes, I have a 97 RM250 and a 95KX250 that I rebuilt completely (motors and all) that run perfectly. I had them dialed in with PWK carbs but went with Lectrons. Just an FYI on my experience with jetting etc. I mix VP113 with 91 at a ratio where I get about 94 octane and go a littler higher at 101 with my KX250 because it has higher compression. So, ill get to the Shee. From what I can tell the motor is stock. It has FMF headers, silencers, pods, airbox delete and some slight frame shave mods for lightening. I guess it was going to be a drag shee. I looked it over like mad when I got it. The bike just had a new top end installed with Wiseco pistons (have receipts). The bike has a Dynatek non programmable CDI from what I can find. TORS deleted. Aftermarket killswitch which works perfectly. No key, no lights, no ebrake. The bike is hard to start when it is cold. I checked the jets and it has 25P and 230M in both. I removed both carbs and cleaned them, cleaned the jets, blew through jets etc. But the bike will not start. It starts and then dies and starts and dies. I have gone from 3/4 turn out on the air screws in quarter increments to 3 turns out trying to get it to start. I screwed the idle screws all the way in, and same increments out. I can kick the bike until I am blue in the face but it will not start. However, if I give it a tiny tiny bit of throttle while kicking it roars to life and when I have the idle screws maxed in it revs as it should with the idle turned all the way up. I can back the idle off and it stays on and runs perfectly. Once the bike is hot it starts in one easy kick. But when it sits it does the same thing. Won't start, but a little throttle and boom, ready to go. I know that this is not right. I plan on going up a size in jetting to 27.5P because I am high altitude and its getting pretty cold here. I ride year around. I can handle the jetting. I have the needles set at 4th clip from the bottom which got rid of a god awful bog that it had. The Dynatek CDI doesnt seem to change anything at all when the clips are changed. Could this just be the reeds going bad? I checked for leaks and sprayed starter fluid all around the bike when it was on and it had no leaks. Compression is solid because once its on it runs fine unless the idle is too low. I do notice that when the bike gets kicked and kicked it does smoke a bit, but I use Castor 927 and my bikes even smoke until they warm up. One the shee is warmed up it doesnt smoke much. Its extremely fast and easily pulls the fronts up with the stock suspension and swing arm. Should I just can the Dynatek CDI and put a stocker on it with a timing plate? I dont really like electronics on my two strokes. Both of my bikes run like beasts. I am having an issue with the clutch dragging AFTER it warms up as well. I am going to completely replace the shift fork, star, clutch basket etc soon. I plan on doing a super cub build pretty quickly.

You won't ship it?

I put a pair on my 95 KX250 . They are very nice. I ordered one for my Shee as well. If it touches, I will use washers.

Hey everyone. I just picked up my first Banshee. Its a 2004. I love it. The previous owner was the second owner and just had the motor completely rebuilt. Its in good shape. However, there are a few things that I am changing. First of all, the bike was being converted into a drag bike, which I don't want to do. So there are a couple of things I need to do. The original owner welded over the front bumper bolt holes and welded a grab bar on instead of just bolting it up. The bike has a custom paint job on the frame, which is nice, but it doesnt have these stock mounting locations for a front bumper or a grab bar of my choice. How do you suggest I go about fixing the frame so I can mount a front bumper of my choice and a grab bar of my choice?