Austin 3:16
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Posts posted by Austin 3:16
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1 hour ago, hoppedupandcutdown said:
TORS absolutely will NOT cause issues like that. It is a run or not run system.
I agree and also tors has been deleted
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9 hours ago, Toybreaker said:
Dude, you have an air leak... how many times are you going to open a thread about the same thing. running with the choke on means it needs more fuel.....
Do a leak down test, find the leak, fix the leak, do a plug chop, report back
Dude I do not it’s been holding 6psi for a hr
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19 minutes ago, Toybreaker said:
carb issue for sure,
check the tube between the carbs is not cracked and seated properly.
If that is it, are the slides in the correct carb? swapped side to side is BAD
have you changed the pilot to a 27.5? if not, do that, and while you have the carbs off put them in a can of carb dip overnight.
Pull them and clean every orifice with brake cleaner and blow out everything with compressed air.
I would run torch tip cleaners through main and pilot jets, just as an SOP thing for when I go through carbs...
Once assembled and back on the bike
LIGHTLY seat the air screws, then turn them out 1.5 turns as a baseline.
eyeball the "sync" before you assemble the rest of the intake, tank, fuel lines
and again at this point I would remove the petcock and flush out the tank, clean the screen filter on the petcock and put it back together....
new fuel lines and filter(s) drop tank on, prime fuel system and fire it up to see if it is fixed.... It idles and revs out good without load? Final assemble and take it for a putt....
Tube between carbs is new and seated well.Slide are in the right carbs. Have not changed the pilots to 27.5 still waiting on them but got in 30 pilots and tried them with no difference. Have cleaned every orifice etc you could eat off them lol. Pitcock and Tank has been cleaned. Is hard to get to start but once it starts it idles and revs out fine when sitting. And takes off fine in first but once it hits that spot in every gear it won’t go past it but I rode it and pulled the choke and it will fly but if you don’t pull it, it maybe goes 25 max in high gear. It did have 28 mains and 25 pilots changed them to 29 main and 30 pilots while I wait on the others but which those didn’t change it. Appreciate you trying to help me figure it out.
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5 hours ago, Toybreaker said:
Change one thing at a time.... write down any changes corresponding to the "fix"
sometimes 1 thing is fucky, most times it is multiple things causing the hard start/rough running/stall....
Keep
It
Simple
Stupid
KISS principle for troubleshooting and repairs...
Oh ik and that’s what I’ve been doing is one thing at a time then checking to see if it got better or worse. One thing I found it will get past that spot if driving it on choke so that points to a fuel issue correct?
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I’m a first time banshee owner and having trouble tuning and jetting. Currently have 29.0 Mains and 30 pilots with needle on 3rd slot from the top. bike will idle fine but when taking off will not unless pulled on half choke so that tells me it’s needing more gas. So should I go up in pilots and mains and or down on the needle to make it richer? Banshee is .40 over vforce 4 reeds and fmf gold series pipes and pod filter. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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On 5/18/2020 at 8:08 AM, Toybreaker said:
Lots of options, use one of the sponsored vendors on the website here.
Still doing it and also changed coil and moved timing back down
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7 minutes ago, Toybreaker said:
Ok
read this,
and next
read this again
After you understand this buy 260-320 mains (if you have the jets great) 27.5-32.5 pilots
Get a longer aftermarket needle set (i like the toomey needles)
I have a similar set up to yours, My bike likes 280 main 27.5 pilot with the needle 2 slots from the tip.
Buy 10 sets of plugs. change jets to your "baseline" and do a plug chop. post pictures of the resulting plug for review (and the inevitable peanut gallery comments)
Beat place to order the pilots?
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5 minutes ago, Toybreaker said:
Ok
read this,
and next
read this again
After you understand this buy 260-320 mains (if you have the jets great) 27.5-32.5 pilots
Get a longer aftermarket needle set (i like the toomey needles)
I have a similar set up to yours, My bike likes 280 main 27.5 pilot with the needle 2 slots from the tip.
Buy 10 sets of plugs. change jets to your "baseline" and do a plug chop. post pictures of the resulting plug for review (and the inevitable peanut gallery comments)
Okay thanks for the info will let ya know what happens
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7 minutes ago, gusto said:
Put in a 30 pilot, adjust air screw and report back
Mains and pilots where my next step. Checked the ignition coil and ohm was .9 which I way over the .2-.4 range so possibly is some of my problem also
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9 minutes ago, hoppedupandcutdown said:
Slides are correct then.
Okay thanks just wanted to make sure tho
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34 minutes ago, hoppedupandcutdown said:
Slides in the correct carbs? Bowls on the correct carbs?
I have the bbs or whatever their called lined up for both sight classes and the notches for each idler screw
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18 minutes ago, hoppedupandcutdown said:
Slides in the correct carbs? Bowls on the correct carbs?
Slides don’t have a certain carb they mate with do they? I’m for certain I have them in right in that carb their in thought it only matters if their in right in the carbs.
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27 minutes ago, n2otoofast4u said:
What carbs, what jets?
Stock carbs, 280 Mains,25 pilot. Will add it’s hard to start cold
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Okay I just rebuilt my engine New crank,New pistons etc. Installed Vforce 4 reeds and timing +4 it also has fmf gold series which where on it before rebuild. Is idling fine and runs fine until it get to a certain spot and just won’t go any faster it’s no where near as fast as it was. I’ve tried making less and more rich with no change,Gave it more and less air and still no change. Carbs are so clean you could eat off them. I’m at a loss onto what to try. Could I need to rejet my carb because of the reeds or is it something else. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
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6 minutes ago, 97Screamer said:
I'd get in touch with Brian at West Coast ATV Parts or Bill at Driveline. Both can put together a good package to fit your needs and budget. Most of the "kits" you'll find on eBay/Amazon/etc.. contain a lot of junk parts that will leave you in worse shape in the long run. The most cost effective way would be to have your jugs bored up a size with Wiesco pistons, driveline clutch and driveline or rebuilt West Coast crank. The best bang for your buck if you want to upgrade would be a driveline top end. Either of the guys I mentioned can do any of that for you.
Okays thanks. Best way to get ahold of them?
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24 minutes ago, 97Screamer said:
Crank seal on the clutch side. Leak test to confirm.
That’s what it is. Thanks for the help might as well rebuild the engine while I’m at it best top end rebuild kit you’d recommend and clutches etc. thanks again for the quick reply
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Banshee Runs fine and has plenty of power just serviced yesterday and took it on a ride went and started it up this morning and my trans oil won’t even touch the stick and It blew oil out at the muffler connector. I’m pretty sure a seal in the engine probably took a dump on me. Any ideas to what seal it could be in the engine? Thanks for any help
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My stator is showing 110 ohms for the pickup coil and ignition coil is 21.5 ohms I’m aware the ignition is between 13.7-20.5 ohms it being 21.5 does this mean my stator needs to be replaced? Thanks for any help
First time banshee owner needing help!
in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
Posted
This is close to what I just did. Atm it has a 32.5 pilot and a 32 main and the clip is on the middle. Now it’s fine on top end and is doing it on low end breaking up and sputtering. Any recommendations and what to try next? Thanks