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trumanbuckley1

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Posts posted by trumanbuckley1

  1. I have an OEM stator that the lighting coil went bad on. Bike still ran great just didn’t have any lights, is there any way to repair that reliably? $555 for a new one seems less ideal than fixing the one I have.

     

     

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  2. Well if you have you cylinder cut for .002 less than the piston. The plating guy would have to cut more in order to keep that clearance after plating.


    Do you have to replate after every time boring it out? I thought cylinders only need replaced if there was deep grooves or chunks missing


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  3. Don’t you normally Want the guy that’s going to be doing the plating to be involved when deciding how much to over bore and allow for plating thickness? 


    I’m unsure of the amount of nickacil in the sleeve, but I didn’t hear anything from anyone I talked about when boring. As far as I know you just cut the cylinder wall down and size it to the piston and send it


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  4. So obviously my cylinders have been cut already to accommodate the old pistons being 1 over ... right?? Sorry for all questions. But your a tremendous help

    Yes they have been cut already.

    When you take it to your boring guy, he will measure the top of the cylinder and the bottom of it. He will then calculate how much cutting it will take to make the bottom of the cylinder match the top, so it’s all one nice even size. The top of the cylinder wears out due to the piston and rings riding on it and wearing it, while the bottom doesn’t have any wear since the piston doesn’t go down that far. When he measures it he will ideally say it needs to go .5 or 1mil more to get it to match (if you have to go more, so be it but less is better). So if he says he can cut it to 66mm and it will be even top to bottom, you will order 66mm pistons and then take them to him so he can bore and hone the cylinders so the pistons fit perfectly. Different manufacturers have different tolerances that they want between the piston and the cylinder wall. That is why you have pistons in hand when the actual boring takes place.


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  5. From what I can see my old pistons were 1 mm over. So do I do that again and go to 2mm over stock to 66 mm piston? Or bigger??


    You don’t know how much you need to machine off until you measure the cylinders with a bore gauge. If you can go with 1mil more then buy the pistons that are 1 mil more and take it to your machining friend. Then he will see what the tolerance needs to be and cut it to match the pistons. Don’t forget to make sure your ring gap is also correct when you go to install the pistons. Don’t want it seizing up when it gets hot


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  6. I think I’m gonna go w the cool head then , and next size up piston . Others have commented before about jetting . Should I try a 27.5 pilot and 280 main to get me going. And thanks to all of you for your help . Much gratitude 


    If you go with a cool head you’re going to have to get certain sized domes to have the compression ratio you want. If you go higher than stock then you’re just going to have to play with the jetting. But that would be a good starting point.


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  7. I’m have a guy that owes me a favor to bore them out . So what do you guys think . I’m gonna be running stock carbs . I would like to go the  route of bigger pistons . W out causing problems though. I think I’ll will get a new head too. Al lot of material seems gone on my stock head. I can’t see that it will evenly combust w other cylinder. Tell me if I’m wrong on that? So how big should I go? What else would have to be done? Sorry for  all these questions. This started out w jetting


    You want to bore it the least amount as possible. Gaining 20cc’s isn’t going to be as much power gain as porting or doing a cool head. Then you have more life in your cylinders and can bore again later on


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  8. Few hundred .. just had a new house built . Spending tons of money else where. If I can find somebody to bore cylinders. And maybe go another size bigger piston . Would be good



    Getting a good idea of how much you have to spend is good start. Once you start buying one thing it will snowball into much more very quickly. Contrary to what a ton of people on here will tell you, it is perfectly fine to rebuild and not upgrade any. Cheapest way to do it would be gasket, as little of a bore as possible, new pistons/rings/wrist pin bearings, clean up the head, send it.


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  9. Agreed my pics do suck. Only letting me send them on small format. All rings on pistons. Looks like those pistons are 1mm over from manufacturer part number. I not opposed to adding some power. On a budget though 


    What’s your budget? That’s the ultimate question


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  10. Experience and knowledge after countless set ups and dyno pulls. Plus the 25 pilot is for stock pipes and intake. You’ve got it breathing better, so now it needs to be fed better. And 4 degrees timing on a basic stock ish bolt ons set up always do well with 4degrees if you’re running premium fuel. 



    What’s your thoughts on my plugs??


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  11. I’m hoping bottom end is ok. Cylinder walls are not damaged . Maybe I can re use jugs. Is head too far gone? Pistons are marked WSM... guessing that means wiseco???


    96e6aaefffb36ef7aad6ed211a083283.jpga34c99efa8e2d4a664315568b10ff681.jpg
    Not to be mean but is your camera smudged? Pics are kind of blurry. Just looking at the head, mine looked similar and I reused it. I took a hammer and punch and made sure to peen it all smooth again and knock off any loose chunks. Do your rods have any side to side play? Like angular side to side play. Any numbers on the pistons? There should be numbers on the tops that say what the bore is.


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  12. Waiting for my Clymer manual to arrive . Tried to do a search on this but can’t get an answer. How much stuff do I need to take off bike for top end change .. fuel tank , plastics, pipes stuff like that ???


    I find it’s easiest to remove all plastics and the fuel tank. I assume some people pull the motor but I did mine while it was still in the bike and it wasn’t bad at all


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