rkooienga

I just asked the same question the other day. You need the correct equipment. cover the exhaust and one of the carb boots. The gauge and pump go into the other carb boot. Make sure both plugs are tight and pump to six psi. I believe(cant remember exactly.) it should hold six psi for a full minute to be perfect.

Also One more question. I have a tors delete. While the bike is missing alot of parts can I cut the harness and un wire those or is that to involved.

What is the top one for is that the hose that goes from the venting hose T to the engine and that?

Ok ill send a picture later to see if its correct thanks borris.

Ok well I had every thing down to a rolling frame with a few unhooked lines. So I will look later today I dont have the coolant bottle on but ill figue out later and get back to you. I might have the hose thats to short hooked to the top left of the radiator. so I will try to investigate all of this tonight.

Yeah unless you have a fully stock banshee Tors is the first to go. Hahaha lol.

So does it follow the throttle cable down and out the back??

Yes I have all of those on correctly. My question is how do I route the one on the left to the coolant tank? and does it go to the top or bottom?

Actually do you have a tors system on?

That im not sure about that sounds like an air leak. Have you done a leak down test? I would say look through your air filter and make sure your slides arent stuck open but im sure you already made sure of that.

He also said when he pours fuel in cylinder that it revs out terrible. That sounds to me like one or both of the pilot jets are plugged or an issue with the chock plunger.

I think that's what he meant, he said he can rev it out if he pours fuel into the cylinder.

Ok so What exactly in list form have you checked? Have you tried new plugs I know its obvious but sometimes its not.

Okay so I took off my cooling system a few weeks back and still trying to figure out how all the hoses and all the vent lines work. So I got both of the obvious big hoses. If your sitting on the bike the outlet on the top right of the radiator goes to the cylinder head correct? and that is the medium sized hose? Also If the left top radiator outlet goes to what Side of the coolant bottle? and How is that routed? I cant get it to make it to the coolant bottle. Third is the vent house that comes out by the water pump and the one that comes out of the rear of the bottom end goes to that T correct. I will get a picture of what im talking about later to post but I am so confused on the routing of the vent hoses and the raadiator hoses. Just if someone can give routing and what hoses go where that would be wonderful.

Now that I think about it if the fuel is flowing good like he said its probably not the vent hose. So i would say a clogged pilot.

Yeah its overlooed alot and sometimes if you have the factory vent hose one of the wires from the harness can cover it and its usually the last thing to think of, but Jets would definetly be a good one to look at.

Im with boris on this one. If there is a crack in one of your fuel lines or one of the hose clamps fell off it would be sucking in air. I would check for a cracked fuel line first. That exact thing happened to my banshee. Secondly I would check for is that your jets are all cleaned out. You said the reeds and all the boots are good so I would say it has to be fuel. If you pour gas into the cylinder and it runs for a minute that means ints buning what fuel you had in there and whats coming through your fuel lines isnt enough to keep up. The only other thing I would suggest is to make sure the gas tank vent hose isnt kinked or has something over the end.

Ok I did two heat cycle of about ten minutes. I will be gentle today for a few minutes while I really listen too it. Then ill step on it for a while.

Cedar Srings Michigan.

I am between 5-7 hundred feet above sea level. I live in michigan. So I figured that 120 and up would be good. Its fine about the break in I just setup a new forum before u responded and what is the tolerance of psi from one cylinder to the other. is within 10 ok or is 10 difference bad

Alright I have two questions. The first is What is an exceptable compression psi. For a freshly rebuild banshee with 65mm bore. (not sure if bore matters.)/ what is the method to complete said comp test? Secondly What is the correct/most commonly used process of breaking in a banshee?

Oh yeah I wondered if you meant the guide pin. I have heard a lot of people also jb welding them in once they come out. I also heard that you could also punch it by putting it in place and punching where they come together.

Do you mean that your jet needle fell out of your carb?

Also what is good compression number? near 120 psi or higher for a brand new motor?

Ok so I cleaned the carbs and this time it didnt want to fire up so i pulled both the carbs out again and this time the reeds too. I made sure the reeds were clean and good so I put those back in. I looked at the carbs again and the jets were clean but I noticed that my float bowls were both identical. So i blew through the chock chanmber hole in the right carb float bowl, and the air went right through. But i did it in the other float bowl and the air didnt pass through. So I put the correct float bowl on the correct carb. I synced them before trying to start it. I kicked it once with the choke out and it fired up first kick and both cylinders were firing and got hot. They are still really rich. Theres oil sputtering out both pipes. Is that good for the breakin and then lean it out with carb settings later after the break in? What is everyones opinion of how to do a break-in. I have just done a total of two heat cycles.