[boost bottle removal]

I just took mine off and plugged it in, tomorrow we shall see if i can tune it correctly.

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[Way to go about paint?]

as you have already learned, prep, prep, prep.   thats the first step.  i wouldnt be super concerned with anything that doesnt come off with aircraft stripper.  i used that stuff on cessna/bell aircraft, and thats the only time that its necessary to get it all off, because every ounce of paint counts for weight.   other than that, if it doesnt really want to come off, even after roughing it up a bit, its stuck on there good enough as a good base for coating.  120, is a tad rough, unless you are getting ater some rust.  if you have bare metal, you should have some metal prep/etch to get it bonded good (which may be included in some primers) and this brings us to the next step.  primers.  choic of primer needs to match not only the topcoat, but also the substrate, and the method.   for instance, if you are going to just spray and spray, like with a completely bare frame, epoxy primer is an excellent choice for primer/seal coat.  however, if you need a primer/filler (in other words, you are going to sand/feather, you need a filler/sandable type primer)  also pay attention to the flash/topcoat time.  some need it coated in color before or after a certain time frame and not in between (temperature/humidity specific) and some only have a certain period before it needs to be cured, prepped and resprayed if you miss that window.   some products also get a bad name because nobody does the proper prep (certain rustoleum products, etc) but if done right, they can yield decent performance.   also, you want to consider compatibility of the top, and under coatings.  acrylic and lacquer enemels, etc.  many will absoultely not adhere, or have a reaction when applied in an uncured state (either pre-cured, or recent treatment.  this is probably one of the larger reasons why your primed pieces had a better effect.  acetone, and grease remover are your friend.  so is lacquer thinner, but that is not so great when you dont actually need it for things like cleaning your paint guns, etc. 220-400 are typically your prep grits, unless you need to do some heavy stuff, like cleaning rust pits out, or using body filler, but you shouldnt need that on a frame component.  i dont know what your budget is like, but eurothane/epoxy coatings cna be the next best thing, or even surpass powder coat.

What about paint for plastics, what's good for them? Thanks.

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[What did I get myself into?]

The TORS system has nothing to do with the park brake rev limiter, it is built into the CDI box. Go to the harness connector for the CDI box, on the bike side of the connector cut the green/yellow striped wire and tape the ends so they CAN'T GROUND. That will do away with the park brake rev limiter.

Good to know, I was mistaken about that.

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[What did I get myself into?]

Thanks for the diagram.

I don't even know what the tors is. I'll have to do some research.

I don't know what it is revving to as a number goes, but it's spinning pretty high. Not as high as the other banshee, but sounds like a lot more than 2k.

Maybe I'll take a video put it on YouTube and link to it here for reference. Maybe. This weekend I'll have a little time.


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Tors is throttle override system which basically senses when carburetor slides gets stuck and kills the spark, it also puts your bike into some kind of limp mode in case you forget to release parking brake. Its got switches on your thumb throttle, parking brake and on each of the carburetors. I don't think you have it because you have aftermarket carbs.

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[What did I get myself into?]

Alright. I got the bike put together. It isn't leaking fuel anymore. I do appear to have a trans drip though. Not sure from where.
It started up on the 3rd kick and idled well. Did that a couple times. Then went to test ride it and it died and wouldn't start for about 5 minutes after about 50 kicks. Finally got it to go. Revs nice in neutral. Put it in 1st and it doesn't really have shit for power. Feels like it is falling on its face about halfway through the gear, then revs a little louder but doesn't move any faster. 2nd and 3rd gear it has hardly any power and is sputtering. 
So.....jetting is obviously wrong. I'm not sure which way to go with which one. 
Anyone have a good video I can watch to get an idea of what this thing should accelerate like? I rode another one, and it felt like no power too, but I'm not sure if that bike was in the greatest shape either. Maybe these just don't feel all that powerful compared to 4 strokes? Having never been on one I know is good, I have no baseline to know if I'm just not liking it, or if it isn't running right. 
Also need to find a wiring diagram. They cut the wires to the hand controls, so it doesn't have a kill switch. Wires are just twisted under the tank. 

Having bunch of wires like that is not fun at all but be patient,if you have some basic electrical knowledge (and it looks like you do) you will be onto it in no time because banshees are simple machines.

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[What did I get myself into?]

I'm not really sure what you mean by that. It revs pretty high, but I feel no power. I feel a slight amount of power right of the throttle break, but beyond 10-20% throttle, it just gets more disappointing. 
As a note, the other one that is sitting in my yard right now, it starts and runs, and it screams as far as RPMs go, but has shit for power either. I was thinking something may be wrong with that one on the clutch. Problem with having a busted bike to compare a busted bike to. 

Ok I'm coming here without reading the whole conversation but did you check T. O. R. S?
On my shee parking brake switch was giving me shit so i unplugged the whole TORS box. Mine would ide no probs whatsoever but wouldn't pass 2k revs

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[Bad choke o ring]

-Sea level
-K&N air filter with no lid
-FMF fatties
-Bone stock jugs and pistons (new)
-Pro design cool head with 21cc domes
-Idle jet 30 and main 270 with needle at 3 grove and air screws 1.5 turns out.
 
So the bike was sitting under the tarp for 3-4 years, few months back I pulled it apart and rebuilt it ground up,cleaned the carbs slapped it together and started it up.
Had no problem starting whatsoever, started pretty much at third crank, but left side was way to rich. Now, with set up mentioned above I thought it's on the lean side but what I was facing was contrary.
I literally spent the whole day messing around with carbs and Googling the shit out of it just to come across someone mentioning choke o ring.
Changed it and it runs heaps better.
I'm taking it out for the ride on Saturday to see if any other issues will pop up.
Any advice what to look for?
 
 
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Idle jets are 27.5 and not 30,my bad.

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[Bad choke o ring]

-Sea level

-K&N air filter with no lid

-FMF fatties

-Bone stock jugs and pistons (new)

-Pro design cool head with 21cc domes

-Idle jet 30 and main 270 with needle at 3 grove and air screws 1.5 turns out.

 

So the bike was sitting under the tarp for 3-4 years, few months back I pulled it apart and rebuilt it ground up,cleaned the carbs slapped it together and started it up.

Had no problem starting whatsoever, started pretty much at third crank, but left side was way to rich. Now, with set up mentioned above I thought it's on the lean side but what I was facing was contrary.

I literally spent the whole day messing around with carbs and Googling the shit out of it just to come across someone mentioning choke o ring.

Changed it and it runs heaps better.

I'm taking it out for the ride on Saturday to see if any other issues will pop up.

Any advice what to look for?

 

 

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