Damann

Yup 1989, time to get some new shit

I see.. well ya still got it figured out. I' about 95% sure it' the cranks seals leaking so bad it can't open reeds for gas, like you said why it runs for 5 secs unless at wot, even at wot it will bog down due to lack of gas, or what ever is happening to make it burn the tranny fluid

So it's looking like pulling the motor and splitting cases is in my future.. thanks yaw, I'll let ya know what I find on compression check with new top end on it tomorrow

I bet that is why the dude thought it was burnt up. It smoked and only had 95psi when I bought it.. But after tare down cylinders weren't that bad to only have 95psi.. so I bet if i go compression check that bitch, it probably still has around 100psi on new top end, because crank seal is leaking.. right?

Hotrod, do you know if crank seals are bad will it compression check bad too?

Hot9193 I think you've got it

Question.. So if crank seal are bad??? Would it comprssion test top end right????? Before rebuild it had 95psi but rings and cylinders looked Good? Would crank seals blowing out ruin piston compression??

I got ya hotrod9193.. about where I'm at.. can't prove that engine is getting the fuel though, can not flood it like I can my other bike.. i know it has spark.. I known it has air.. it start with direct injection.. But with carbs on it will only and barley run with throttle.. problem is not carbs.. I'm 100%.. I switch plug caps, both make same size spark.. But not sure if reeds are letting fuel in.. therefore goes my leak, right????? No bottom end compression to open reeds on strokes.. no reeds open, no fuel into cylinders, no starty.. right? Did that make since?

Yes crossover tube is there and tight

Then ya know there isn't a leak. But ya know if I do that the mfer still won' start or run.. it's 1989.. honestly doubt the previous life owners ever tore bike down to replace crank seals.. prob got all new shit on trying to run on 29 year old crank seals

Why not take everything back apart in an hr, and gasket seal every thing put back together, for free?

Show where to male or buy one for $30

Leak down test.. If i had a leak in bottom of a jug?? Leak down would only let me know I'm losing compression?? Or does it not work like that.. does it let you know left or right side leaks.. and then you have to find the leak??

If I redo head gasket and i know it is at 100% perfection, and I double check reeds. And it does start and does idle,, but still smokes like Willy Nelson it'd have to be crank seals then..

So when i take this mfer back apart to find if it is head gasket or crank seals or whatever.. Should I use gasket sealer on the head gasket? I have 3 head gaskets, 1 copper came with cheap top end.. 2 a tusk head gasket, 3 reused head gasket made of steal with a silicone bead around all seal top and bottom still looks reusable???????

How will a leak down help me here.. I'm starting but smoking and not starting.. I'd bet a left nut it' not a leak.. How? I watch south Texas banshee on You tube do a leak down.. looks like a pain in the ass to not really tell me the prob.. leak down tells me leak on left side or leak on right side not where on what. Still leaves me guessing.. for $30 would still rather just replace head gasket and or add a f load of gasket sealer to copper gasket???? Or is that not recomended??

Should not be any leaks.. unless its the reeds.. all new gaskets, cleaned surfaces to new new and then some. all new top end.. only thing that I should have did was use gasket sealer on the copper head gasket. So what would leak that bad to make the bike smoke like I'm burning extra extra extra oil.. thick white smoke, no 2 stoke smell? Used castor 927.. other bike I run klotz.. don' know the smell of this POS with 927.

So idk, one part at a time until I find the fn problem.. Just don' know where to start. Be diff if I owned bike before it needed rebuild.. now rebuilt, everything on the mfer was rigged so no telling. Didn' my best to restore every part to knew before reinstalling.. now I'm here.. bike started smoked like he'l out right side. Switched plug caps, rejetted carbs, sonic cleaned carbs, 21mm bowl height, new top end, new spark plugs, old coil.. coil makes good enough spark to start and runs for 5 secs after I put gas into cylinders. Carbs are not leaking.. bike will not restart after first gas into cylinder start up unless kicked to high fn hell and held at wot. Starts, idles down roughly, smokes evenly out pipes, still too much smoke, and dies.

Forum is too diff to post pics.. yes piston are in correct.. carbs are perfect.. so where from there.. timing? Spark? Fuel? Timing advanced plus 4.. haven't messed with it. Plugs make spark so coil works good enough. So has to be reeds not letting enough fuel in.. or head gasket blown and in t secs the coolant bogs engine down.. But not blowing any coolant out when I pull plugs and kick it over, so not burning enough to kill it. Put bit is idle screw kit on. Just for f sakes screwed them all way in to make sure it had enough fuel to start. If too much it will flood and I will know.. it is not flooding.. so has to be reeds, head gasket, or crank seal..

Banshee still no start.. only way it will start is when I use a syringe and directly put gas into top of motor through plug holes.. QUESTION IS.. when I bought, was promised it ran, I rebuild carbs sonic cleaned all new jets, floats set at 21mm, it is not a carb problem. But when I took reeds apart I had 1 yellow 1 white in each carb. IS THAT STOCK REEDS? IS THERE A HIGH AND LOW? So when bike does start for the 5 seconds on first kick, it still smokes, now equal smoke out of both pipes could be smoke off from the rebuild??? So how it starts when I put direct fuel into cylinders, but dies 5 sec later and will not will not start back up unless I full throttle and kick the shit out of it and then again smokes and dies.. IF CRANK SEALS WERE BAD WOULD IT RUN BUT JUST SMOKE OVERLY BAD? OR WOULD IT NOT RUN AT ALL?

Don't have a pressure tester kit, leak down kit.. probably faster to just re due the head gasket to my likings. Cheaper to switch plug caps, if no, then replace head gasket, 20mins and $13 gasket and install with gasket sealer asumming my head suface isnt flush 100% perfect. If that isn't the deal I know it the right side crank seal gasket.. again sucks to tare whole motor apart for a $13 gasket set. But in the end it will run and run good enough for me to thrash the woods up

Sorry Missouri had some shit weather come though this wknd. Will keep ya updated on the progress or lack of progress. Soon as I get a chance I'm going to swap plug cap sides, see if left side smokes.. if i still have smoke, new head gasket.. still smokes has to be the crank seal. Hopefully tonight I can get out there without freezing my butts off and switch out spark plug caps/boots.

Okay I will try that pic app.. now you all have me scared that it is my crank seal!! New head gasket don't sound so bad now. Let' hope for the best with a fouled plug wire cap

Lol no deal on $650, I'll get it running like a raped ape soon, and when i figure pictures on here I'll will share

Okay thanks for all the advice, I have and planned on doing plug caps.. I did not know about the bubbles in the radiator. I will check that as well tomorrow.. I'll let ya guys know how it worked out of didn't on sunday.. going to be cold again this wknd.. here in Missouri