Damann

Because I have a set of cheap Chinese jugs idk what to do with. I have an OEM set but piston I took out said 65.45mm. only one more rebuild before it needs re-sleved. Too much money.I also have a set of OEM jugs still at stock 64mm. And I have a set of wiesco pro lite 64.5 pistons.. why pay for extra driveline money when I just need a set of jugs ported to fit new pistons. Plan to use the driveline stealth head. Won't know dome size to use until I get them ported.

Was hoping maybe true stocker would work with this top end kit

Totally agree. Thank you for the advice.. i didn't want to use cheap jugs for porting, just have them layong around.Just wanted to see if anyone else had used cheap jugs for simple rebuild or have modded a cheap jug.. just trying to figure out what to do with the top end kit

That's why I asked if anyone has had or would do port work on an off brand cheap jug???? Because I have one, and after reading for 2 days seems like I better not trust the piston. But don't have much to go on with the cheap jugs. Use or dont?

Will do.. AZ sells a lot of top end kits. I figured on a banshee forum, someone would have spent $100 for cheap jugs pistons, and would know what they were or were not about

Have you ever been to a demo derby? Enough said. Older cars had better steal. So why not older jugs and the sleves inside them being made from better metal then an $100 pair of ebay jugs you can buy today? They are cheap for a reason. Don't think they (cheap jugs) could support a port job and 75hp? Or am I incorrect?

Have you ever been to a demo derby? Enough said. Older cars had better steal. So why not older jugs and the sleves inside them being made from better metal then an $100 pair of ebay jugs you can buy today? They are cheap for a reason. Don't think they (cheap jugs) could support a port job and 75hp? Or am I incorrect?

What do you mean? Cheap jugs are better then OEM or can be? Do you think cheap $100 ebay jugs and piston can hold up to basic mods and last as long as an OEM jug? I don't think a pro bike builder would even port an ebay cylinder, correct me if I'm wrong? I have both and would like to use the cheap set one day for something

metal was better in older cars, should be better in a 30yr old banshee jug.. agree too much foreign cheap shit out there

Just got lucky and found a set of OEM 64mm used for $100 bill. Not $400

Awesome, good to hear. I figured I'd get bottom end with new crank sealed and be piston shopping. Save the cheapies jugs/pistons for a quick fix n flip bike. So shelf the Namura kit it is. Thanks

Has anyone ever ran cheap Namura piston kit? What is to expect? How long of life? What compression?

I think, I'm going to try to just do an intake clean up on cheap shit and run them until they blow, until I can find a set to ship off and have ported and re-bored

Yea, I thought so too on finding a stock set for $100.. eBay has everyone on fb and craigslist taxing $200 and up for a set of jugs..

I ment stock piston are at 65.45mm

Can you port cheap $100 ebay jugs? Prob is my sticker are at 64.45 (piston).. not worth paying for a port job if this rebuild I will be at 66mm. Right? Jugs are done need resleved.. how much does it usually cost to resleve?

I would start off at a average speed you will be doing. Then go from how fast you want to go? Then just ride stock 14/41 lol or 15/41

The bike has fresh rebuild bottom to top. I rebuilt it because when it did run for a short time, from me putting a shot of gas directly into cylinder, got it to fire.... all before bottom end rebuild.. now the whole motor is done, new everything, and I can not get gas into cylinders??? If there is then why not start. I have spark air just need fuel. Or my spark is not big enough... main question is.. how do you know when you coil is bad? Or not producing proper spark?

.How do you know when you need a new coil? Bikes has never ran beside 9 secs to find out it needed new crank seals, just had bottom gaskets seals and top end jugs pistons rings, and carbs rebuilt running stock pipes no baffles/packing, stock carbs, 290 main 27.5 pilot, floats set at 21mm, plus 4 timing, flywheel to pulsar gap a .010 thousands, business card gap,stock reeds, stock head, bike makes spark will not start, haven' tried dumping a shot of fuel into cylinders, idle screw 1.5 turns in from first touch of slide, air fuel 1.5 turns out. New spark pkugs, Bike wont start 😣, tired of kicking, What did I do wrong?

When i get it to go, i will share the before and after pics of this old whore, that will have went to the beauty and plastic surgery shop. Being i can figure out stupid pic app.

And everyone else, I think we got it figured out.. Like what hotrod said, crank seal leaked, he ran the piss out of it, burnt it up, sold it to me as an 89 j arm with red line blah blah j arms, all new bushing and bearings, rad and hoses, stock pipes, moose airfilter, needs top end.. he wanted $800, I gave $650 and 2 cigs, made him throw in set of rear bald wheels n tires

Thanks dano3 and hotrod9193

Still going to make a leak down kit for my bikes, seems like a good tool to have if your going to own and flip a bike every now and then.

No I was unaware that the back pressure opened reeds. I assume I'm not getting the fuel from the bottom end leak. Seems like the crank seals are bad. cheap top end kit.. Yes ebay $114. I'm a perfectionist with my hands and making building skills, so when I disassembled bike I planned on a basic top end kit flip bike. Now 27hrs into it, I'm keeping the fn thing.. plus full tare down and rebuild coming up.

I will work on making that leak down test kit.. thanks for info. Looks simple