Wreckless_Rider

Works perfectly, programmable timing curves, woth curve selector box. Want to trade for a stock cdi. Off my 96 shee, bikes wiring harness has both 4 pin square plugs

I would love to run the plate a 0* and run curve 3, but since i didnt buy the dyna new i dont know if someone F'ed with the curves. So i aint gonna risk a new motor on it.

There was a base gasket on this jug, the other one just had gobbs of RTV slapped on as one.

Created a photo bucket. Hopefully i did this right. Should be 5 photos of the carnage

Welp then that aint happening im lucky i figured out how to open google

Id honestly like to swap this dyna with somebody. And the tops of the pistons did not make contact with the head. If i could figure out how to upload images i would. It keeps saying file to large to upload

Will +8* timing after 3600rpm hurt or help top end performance to 10k rpm

Also, if i unplug the curve selector box, it defaults the box to the "stock" curve. Now if i do that and run +4 at the plate, i will be +4* up to 3600rpm, then +7-8* up to 10k rpm. Correct me if im wrong, and i most likely am, (im here to learn fellas lol) you want the timing to retard with high rpm? So +8* might hurt my top end performance??? Or i am totally wrong and i will gain twice as much power with +8 then with +4 lol. Keep in mine i do not have access to any fuel higher then 93 octane. And will be keeping stock bore, stock stroke, and stock compression, with dune ported cylinders. 60ft. Above sea level.

Could you explain more to me on "look at the timing heat on the plugs" please?

I dont know what they did he just said "it just slowly shut off like it ran out of fuel". I saw the cases and knew he was lying lol. Definetly did not slowly die the bitch locked at 10k rpm proly. The dyna's "stock" curve has roughly 3-4* more advance thruout the entire curve past 3600rpm. According to the graph dyna provides on there pdf for this specific box, and the graph provided in the yamaha service manual. Now, that being said, will adding +4 at the plate hurt my top end performance? It will technically be +4* to about 3600rpm, then be +7-8* advance after that.

Plugs are a grey male and a white female, both 4 pin square.

Honestly im just worried about running this dyna on stock curve with the plate at +4 because some have told me dyna's stock setting is exactly like the factory curve, but then other have told me it still adding timing. I looked at dyna's curve graph and the factory one and there identical except its final timing at 10,000rpm is 4* advanced. Now one the other hand, there was no water in the trans oil, and pieces of the case everywhere. No doubt this thing went while previous idiot was pinning it. Just dont know if it was from timing issue or plain stupidity. And i highly doubt pull starting the bike while its full of gas would send the rod thru top and bottom cases, punching a hole in the bottom of the left cylinder head so hard that it shattered the reed cage.

What would cause the left rod to snap clean in half and send it thru the top and bottom cases, and the right rod to be bent into an S shape? No blueing around the snapped rod, so it didmt get hot. Bought the bike this way, so not sure what octane they were running. I and am in the process of building a new motor now. Its stock head, looks like they used RTV as a base gasket, +6 timing at the plate, dynatek FS set to "stock" curve, plugs look coffee brown, so it wasnt running lean. Im thinking too much timing @ +6 at the plate with the dynatek on top of that? And probably only ran 87 octane cuz guy i got it from couldnt even tell me what kimda pipes it had, when the tag clearly says pro circuit. So i dont think he was smart enough to use atleast 93 octane. And how about the non existant base gasket? That would raise compression also? I think too much timing, higher compression, and using wrong octane? Sound about right?

Perfect saves me money

Shooting for hp in the 60's, should be easily attainable with everything i got done & porting right? I do not want to get bigger carbs, these are already bored to 28's, and the old lady already isnt very happy im doin this instead of a new bathroom lmao

If i get the cylinders mild trail ported, how would that effect the jetting from stock cylinders?

Already read into the whole carb sync thing, sounds easy enough.

That right there is exactly what i was thinking and will do

Stock stroke yes. Once i get this thing together ill try that. Cant wait to ride it, thought my blaster i had back in the day was cool, this is gonna knock my socks off lmao

Also i measured my carbs on the reed side and got almost 28mm. Have they been bored?

New to the Banshee scene. Jetted many other 2 strokes but no twin cylinder beasts like this. Building the motor as we speak, everything done is listed in my profile. Got the Vito's jet kit, comes with 280-340 mains, 30 pilots, vitos red needles. Anybody give me a baseline to start with? Im at 60ft Sea level.

I dont know ill have to look sunday or monday evening when i get back into town. Im ditchin this and runnin +4 on the plate and not worryin about anything. Less electric the better is right.

Anyone want to trade for stock 1996 CDI?

Thata what i thought. This motor already blew before i got it, snapped left rod in half and sent it thru top and bottom cases. No signs or runnin lean or wrong mixture, leads me to believe they were screwing with wrong octane, too high rpm's, and way too much timing. So i dont know if its from someone who was messing with the box programs or what not. Plate was set around +5

Dyna has there graph showing that the factory curve starts at 16*, ramps to 22* at about 3500rpm, and drops to a final of around 13* @ 10,000rpm. The graph you posted the picture of shows the factory curve as the same, only showing a final of 9* at 10,000rpm. Which is correct? Also, how do i know that my dynatek box curves are as the graph shows and has not been re programmed by somebody?