BurntLegs

Alright, guess I'm beating a dead horse.

Hello, I have been doing some thinking and was wondering if anyone else has thought about this/seen any results themselves. My best guess would be longer tubes between carbs and filters may help lower end at the expense of top end. Possibly higher velocity/more laminar flow at low scoocums and slightly less flow at maximum scoocums? Or maybe the effect is minimal and the tubes simply choke the engine? What got me started was the CFM intake, to me its interesting and was surprised I didnt find too much conversation about the subject considering allot of people here drag and reed spacers are kinda popular.

The engine has 4.8 hrs on it (according to the cheapo hr meter). I didn't start riding it hard until around 2 hrs. I have that tool and it is what I've been using, I have it dialed in as close as even as I can get, I noticed the tool doesnt seem too accurate...a full turn on the idle screw make it barely move, but theyre both sitting at 9(whatever units). The part that the airbox makes difficult is adjusting the throttle cables, really all I have for that is feeling the slides snap and an inspection mirror to look down the intake tubes. I think I have a leak somewhere and it has just slowly been getting worse, causing these starting issues, and now it is full blown burning something. Drained all the gas from the carb bowls, mixed up some fresh 32:1 Castor 927 and its still abnormally smokey. Prior to this I did idle/midrange/and a 1-3 plug chop, so it was fairly on jet. It's gotten a bit colder in the past week but I was expecting lean from that. Smoking out of both tail pipes about evenly. Looking for a blue hue from trans oil (Rotella T6) but I'm not seeing it, smell is a tad off. Coolant was maybe a 1/4" under the cap and no signs of coolant on the plugs. My first thought was right crank seal(seemed kind of leak prone when I was assembling the engine) but that wouldn't cause both sides to smoke...in fact I cant think of much that would cause both sides to smoke... Guess I'll start prepping it for another leakdown, fuck I hate leakdowns. I'd like to apologize, everytime I make a post I get a few posts in and pretty much realize I already know what I need to do, end up just commenting on what I'm doing lol. That said I really do appreciate the input, thanks.

Well i think im burning tranny oil or coolant. This bad smoking is new. At idle its a little more smokey, thought its just cold. Let it idle while i check carb sync(thats good), still smoking after that. So i decide to drive it thru the yard, it felt fine(not lean or rich), but the smoke seemed to exponentially increase as i throttled up. Quickly got paranoid and killed it. Letting her cool off and its fluid/plug check time. Now im wishing it was electrical!!

Yea it was an all around dumb idea but the tester survived... I do need to test the wire/coil R, havnt done that yet. Its normal to barely see a spark, its more like a pass/fail test? Now that you say the sync thing...yea it does sound like theyre out of sync. Maybe an idle screw wiggled around. I did loc tite them in but then had to fine tune one of them after the loc tite dried. Sucks putting 100% trust in the tool, cant see/feel the slides with the airbox.

Yea i think the CDI might be more "technical" then I plan on getting. I have a butt dyno and a hole saw for chopping plugs. Flipping a switch and testing different timing tables would be cool, but i should have dyno access/know banshees better to be doing that. Thank you for the input 👍

Banshee has slowly been getting tougher to start, especially in moist weather. Troubleshot it down to a weak spark and have been going thru the electrical system. Pretty much troubleshot down to a bad CDI or plug wires. Idle sounds rough to me but it still idles no problem, spark takes a few kicks to faintly see it. Just for shits and tits i hooked a meter up to the plugs, drastically different readings/no readings with as consistent kicks as i could give it Are there any tangible benefits to the timing curves in aftermarket CDIs? Currently running +4 plate. 421 Driveline LP trail bike Heres the idle. Cold start but had been idling about a min prior to video

What special said. Recently tried single stage Unis+CFM airbox for the first time on a new to me Banshee. Holy tits...clesning the Unis every other ride compared to K&N's once a month on my other atvs...that means almost all the dust is going thru the K&Ns.... I am really happy with the airbox though, its badass, BUT I cant touch/see the slides easily and it turns removing the carbs into an hr of jerking off the airbox

Well I started with repacking the silencers, they were horrid. The excessive death in the silencers made me look at the expansion chambers better, there was about an eighth inch of carbon on the header side. The T5's will already be choking my setup so I decided to clean them internally. May have been a waste of time but a whooole lotta exhaust splooge came out regardless. Guess I'll paint em black and make a snoozer

Hey guys...in the process of restoring a Banshee. I think I may have messed up my Toomeys... After cleaning out the insides of one expansion chamber, I made the mistake of hitting it with a finishing pad using an angle grinder...I think they are chrome and I just ate the chrome and ruined the nickel underneath? So my question... will they rust quickly if I just leave the brushed look? Should I high temp paint them? (Sleeper mode hehe) I do plan on upgrading my carb/exhaust setup around the springtime so I am not too motivated to put the elbow grease into full on polishing it. thanks

Apologies for the bump Lost comp, pulled the engine and....more questions! Case is all initial'd up, kinda further pisses me off... It has a Wiseco crank...one side of the rods says WR10010, other side says 388 R2. Can't really find shit for info so I THINK its just a stock replacement not welded. WPC100 Would anyone trust this crank with a Driveline 392 kit? Looking at some used "stock bore/factory" jugs, I would use the crank for those but ehhh...feel like im just buying more junk to try and fix.

Noted for a few months down the road lol Yea i sync'd them and fiddled with the air screws on day 1. I would say i dont like them, but im just used to keihins

Where ya duning up in Michigan? All we got is this place called St. Joes State Park in MO, its mining runoff and is a bit stickier then real sand. Thoroughly screws everything, I avoid going there. Edit: good to hear Stribz, thats why I wanted a Banshee haha. Already got my 308EX for handling/goon riding, wanted some serious POWA

Will do on the pods. I'm at 470', probably just order some 350's/27.5's from JetsRUs when I order everything. I know its running rich now, but I honestly dont see a point in tuning it at this point.

Pretty set on the driveline setup after doing some more research. Think I'm going to get one more paycheck under my belt and pull the trigger on the 4mil crank and 68mm cylinder setup! I can't find any good info on Drivelines cranks, I'm going to assume they're good and just get it all from them rather then a HR crank. I like the idea of 392, but I am afraid of throwing a rod....been there, done that on a car lol It sucks I bought this bike 2 weeks ago and already have to throw $1500 and a few weeks of work into it. But hey, I'll have my (almost) dream bike and you can't buy any factory wheeler with comparable power for less then $4500!! Its just the 2 to 1 intake, I have both carbs. If anything I'll trade the Uni filter on it in for a K&N w/ prefilty. Probably going to see how it runs/do a plug chop on the 30/360 jets that are in it now and go from there once I get to that stage. Once again, thanks for the friendliness and advice. I know this info is already out there for the most part. It's cool to see a decent community. Just went for a little yard rip, god damn I love this bike.

I am unsure if its welded. Judging by the cyls/slipping clutch...its already a time bomb thats ticking really fast ha. Going off the fact a decent porting is $300+, I would assume at the very least $300 from my local machinist for a resleeve, not really worth it in my opinion. Ill check out Driveline thanks for the ref. The Assassin LP's + HotRod/Driveline +4 crank seem like a somewhat cost effective option. Now just to figure out if Domes will fit my adaracing head.

Dunno where the edit button went, swore I just had that option.... Finally found some info/pics claiming niche cylinders are aids. So as far as I understand...keep my eyes peeled for OEM with bore left+get em ported or buy some nice aftermarket ones are my options here?

Yes its ported, when I pulled the heads, I saw grinding on the ports but didn't dig deeper. I bought it as "bolt ons, stock bore." Its bored/ported haha I'm happy with the power now, just losing compression and already running 66.25mm pistons on think stock walls... That sounds like a good build to me, allot of people seem to do it. Any ideas on where to buy cylinders? Right now I'm mostly worried about throwing the money towards the top end so it's solid and doing a crank next summer/the winter, I know I'll have to keep that in mind when porting

Thank you for the welcome and reply!... 1) No sand/drag strips. Field ripping/light trails. 2) I know they're not handling quads, I want something that's just fun to rip thru fields/dirt on. 60-70 hp would be real nice, more is always welcome. Engine first:suspension later. 3) $1500 or under, under $1000 ideally. 4) 110 leaded octane 5) No I don't

I'm going to start this off with...I'm sorry, I'm sure this is a repost from somewhere. If anyone wants to send me a link to a copy of this post feel free, I WILL go and read thru it. I've been doing a decent amount of research over the past week but I want some input. Enjoy the damned book. Long story short...I bought a Shee that I was told was stock bore. Its not....its .089 (66.25mm) over and low on compression (120 on left, 110 on right). I'll throw the full list o' mods on the bottom but its bored with stock stroke, adaracing head/20cc domes. Appears to be ported (I tried to look around...didn't here of anyone getting that bad of compression from porting). Oh yea...clutch slips on pavement once it's warmed up as well(just a little icing on the cupcake). Skip the next 2 paragraphs to get straight to it. I did cold and warm compression tests, full throttle, killswitched...multiple times. My compression tester IS a cheapo, however, I checked my compression on my lil 308ex with a 14.5:1 piston in it, it read 205, which is what I was expecting (Not hoping...ha). I am working on borrowing a more expensive one and have been collecting parts for the leakdown test on my time off work, but I don't think there's much denying it here, I'm losing my rings and out of cylinder. Pulled the head (prior to buying a comp tester), no cross hatching left on walls but no visible/feelable scratches. Wish I would have knew the compression before hand, I would have measured the port and ring gap. When I had the heads off, I just wanted to measure the bore. It pulls hard (to me) so I made the mistake of assuming it had good compression. So...here's my question. What would YOU do? I will try to explain what I want from the bike. I dont live near sand or have any urge to drag competitively. That said, I have my 308 for trails but will do some trail riding on BIGGER/MAIN trails, it's mostly going to be a field ripper. I understand its a 2 stroke, but I want it to be decently reliable and get some time inbetween top ends here. It is worth it for me to pay a little extra up front to get a decently reliable bike that will melt my face(I know, I'm stating polar opposites here). My options, as I understand, lowest to highest cost: 1) Bore to 66.50, throw in Wiseco pistons. Hope it doesn't crack for awhile. Possibly have a catastrophic failure. Yeeeehaaaww $350ish 2) Ebay kit by BP Racing: NICHE 64mm cylinders "stage 2 race port" + VITOS pistons. Dont know anything about either parts. Input is welcome about this setup(not expecting much positivity on this one). Search for it, it is easy to find. Not sure if links to external sites are welcomed or not. $500ish 3) Serval cylinders. This one...hmm. The 68 mils, stock stroke setup. Throw Wiseco pistons in. Not sure if my ADARacing domes will work, I can get them cut. I will eventually want to spend the $$ on 4 mil setup, not sure if that is doable if I buy this now. Possibly huge waste of money if I'm NOT doing a crank/bigger pistons. But I THINK I like the idea of plated. $940 cyl + $260 pistons + $50ish in gaskets. I would guestimate $1250-1400 for this one. Almost my preferred but mostly unsure(?) about option, might be doing a little future proofing + it will make my taint tingle. 4) Balls to the wall: 4 mil crank, serval cyls. Havn't done much research here, I don't really want to spend that much/jump into a 1-3 month project right out of the gates. Maybe 1/2 yrs out. If you made it this far, sincere thanks for putting in the attention. My apologies as well, I know I will somehow piss someone off, I'm not as knowledgeable as 90% of the people here but am working on learning from my mistakes and will listen to advice. 66.25 bore,unknown porting, ada racing heads w/ 20cc domes, stock stroke, unknown big radiator, vforce 3 reeds, T5'soomey 2-1 intake, 30/360 jets on stock carbs, +2 swingy. Unsure about clutch, if the crank is welded, impeller.