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Rawnold

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Posts posted by Rawnold

  1. 9 hours ago, 375hp banshees said:

    Only if it's bare somewhere and rubbing it against the frame. the exhaust won't be an issue other than ruining your filter. I just zip tie mine together somewhat.
    Did you oil your filters between the time that it ran good and didn't?

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
     

    Honestly I was trying to remember what triggered it and I can't recall. I know when I picked up the quad it was riding good, I clean and oil filters after every ride almost.

     

    Didnt get the chance to mess with it today I will tomorrow though. Hopefully it is something so stupid as me over oiling my pods

  2. 54 minutes ago, kawa110 said:

    Too much oil on filters...

    Never thought about that, I'll clean them and take the quad out see what's up. I'll keep you guys posted

     

    1 hour ago, 375hp banshees said:

    Make sure it's not something stupid like your air filters rubbing on a harness or something... long shot but

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
     

    The air filter does touch the harness could this a problem? I will ziptie it so that it will be completely out of the way. The left pod filter also kind of rubs the left exhaust pipe. For some reason my right side pod has less space than my right side pod. I'm thinking my exhaust isn't fastened correctly or something. Would this possibly give me an issue as well?

  3. So i got an 03 banshee with CPI pipes, v force 3 reeds, mild port with 65.50s and 35 mm PWK air strikers. This quad rode great for about a week after I had my guy install a new lockout clutch.

    Now the bike runs like shit, but only with air filters!!!! Every time I take the air pod filters off the bike runs fucking great, but I dont want to run with no filters. My original jetting was 168 main jet. I tried dropping to jets sizes I went down up to 160 at one jet size at a time. The quad seemed to run fine each time I dropped jets but as soon as I hit it in powerband the quad starts to sputter and bog. Once the quad bogs out on the powerband, the quad will sputter the WHOLE ride home. 

    I called the dude that just set up my motor and told him this he told me that maybe my filters were garbage, to go back to original jetting and get new filters. so I went and got actual K&N not "Ebay shit filters". Oiled them up threw them on with original jets and the same thing. I start dropping jets the same way and the quad reacts the same way.

    I even tried raising the needle jets on the carbs and once again the same thing, leaving the gate of my house the bike seems fine. (bikes up to temp fresh plugs everything good) then once I hit powerband boom bike rides like crap.

     

    The strange thing is that even on the original jetting which was 168 main jet and middle clip on the needle, AS SOON as I remove the air pods the quad does not sputter not one bit and rides like it should. This leads me to think its jetting??

     

    At this point the only jet I have not tinkered with is the pilot, the dude that built up my motor wants the quad running a bit rich he said that would be the best way for the motor to run. "Better to swap plugs than to swap engines". He hasnt told me to mess with the pilot and I dont think the pilot would affect the quad this much?

     

    What are your thoughts on this?

     

    Ps. Sorry for the long post I tried to be as descriptive as possible

  4. 45 minutes ago, 97Screamer said:

     

    Definitely warrior ball joints. Hold onto your wallet, they are about $70/each. Here is the Yamaha part number, I'm not aware of any aftermarket available: 1UY-23549-00-00

    Yes those are definitely it. Only thing that could be different is threading or size but I doubt it. And geez 70 bucks each I think I'd rather order new arms lol.

     

    Thank you so much fellas

  5. I'll definitely look into blackandyellows and see what's up with that. And as for the fireballs, I've honestly never heard of that brand which is why I was a little less interested in those, I know I can buy fox floats with LS arms for about 1k brand new as a set on ebay, I'm hoping I can get lucky and find a deal on here for something I'd like more.

    Like I said anything is welcome :)

  6. 14 hours ago, Ayesully810 said:

    what the hell happened with your last thread did u ever get this thing running right ?

    What' up bro! Yeah the what's running pretty dang good now, it' still bogging here and there on top end but it's my jetting and before I can address that I need to get my brakes going. Plugs are looking nice and dark brown but I haven't done a true top end plug chop yet.

     

    As far as my back brake I just realized the new master cylinder I bought off eBay had a smaller push pin than the original so that gave the pedal some extra slack.. cheap Chinese shit.. oh well I drilled the hole bigger and now im off to find me a new push pin. This will resolve most of my slack issue on my pedal but I know it won't make my brake function properly just yet. I will try bleeding the master this afternoon in hopes that will solve my issue.

  7. 3 hours ago, ZillaFreak said:

    If fully bleed, you still using OEM hose? Could have a blown line that has a bubble forming. Might need better lines.

    New lines, new master cylinder. 

     

    3 hours ago, Chukkinsod said:

    try bleeding the master first.....I found if you have an air pocket between the res and the master cyl you will fight this for hours. Easy way disconnect the brake line from master cyl at banjo. put your thumb over the hole and press down on the peddle with your other hand. KEEP THE RES FULL!!! once all the air out of the master....connect line and do std brake bleed procedure. Sounds like line still has air in it.

    I will try this tomorrow. The brake line you're telling me to disconnect to bleed from is the brake line that runs from caliper to master cylinder? Never heard of banjo. 

     

    Brake pedal still feels pretty soft up until the end where you feel the caliper really start to squeeze the rotor. Even though its not squeezing enough

  8. What's up fellas,

    As soon of you know I have a 03 banshee I purchased used some months back. Since I got the quad the rear brake was not working and the front were hanging by a thread.

     

    Past couple of days I've been working with the brakes since some parts finally got delivered.

    Now I've bled the rear brakes and they appear to be working, only issue is not working well enough. In order for the brake to actually hold the bike I have to press the pedal all the way to the bottom. Even with the pedal bottomed out I can still move the bike with enough pressure. Needless to say, when the quads in motion this feels almost as if the brakes aren't working.

     

    Could this be an air pocket in my lines/cylinder? I have bled the brakes several times and all that comes out is squirts no bubbles. Or is this something else? NEW BRAKE PADS, NEW MASTER CYLINDER, & NEW BRAKE LINE. 

     

    Front brakes will be coming soon, I have to buy bleeder valves for the calipers.

  9. 1 hour ago, Ayesully810 said:

    did you pressure test your motor after you rebuilt it? that's how you would rule out an air leak.

    if you have an ohm meter you can test your stator and coil to make sure they are functioning within spec.

    No I never pressure tested just did a compression test and felt around the cylinders/head. I'm gonna have to get my hands on a tester, I'll probably make one I hear it's pretty easy.

    & I have an ohm reader but not an automotive one so I doubt it would work. Is this the only way to tell it's working properly?

  10. 10 hours ago, sleeper06 said:

    I would like to see pics of the exhaust n transfer work. Regardless there's other issues. Bone stock internals with air box n CPI like 300 ish mains. I would go through all electronics with a fine tooth comb. Also if his mechanic trimmed the domes himself could be an issue there with bandwidth and angle . Where do you live? Have you tested/checked any electrical components?

    Haven't checked anything electrical. Buddy of mine said my issue sounds like an air leak or electrical. What would I need to check on the stator side? He told me to unscrew it and make sure everything is intact and tight. Besides that any in specific?

     

    also dm me your # and I'll send you pics of whatever you need to see

  11. 4 hours ago, IceracerX said:

    25 pilot is probably lean as fun on the bottom end. Put a 30 in and try again. Slight ??? porting (huh?) CPIs with290 pilots sound lean too. 66.50 cylinders, thin to win?

    Gonna try 30 and a few around there. & if it were up to me I would have stock cylinders, but it came with 6550 already and I needed to make the jump to clean up my cylinders.

    will post results once I have adjusted the pilot. Also gonna post pics of my plugs. When I had the 310 jet in there (since I got the quad till just a few days ago) the plugs would look black and oily. Which I know can be more than just a rich condition. I have 290s 300s and the original 310s with me so hopefully one of those does the trick. 

     

    Should i I mess with needle clip? Or worry about main and pilot first?

     

    e- after about 10 mins of riding with the 290s plugs are brown and dry.. no noticeable change in performance

  12. I got this 03 banshee used a month and a half ago and I've been dropping $ on it non stop since I got it.. and it's still not riding right. Frustrating to say the least.

    i will tell you guys everything I've done to the quad to help figure this out. Feel free to skip to the end if you don't need to know everything.

    when I first got the quad it was running. Most noticeable riding issue was the clutch. Took the quad home started giving me issues with leaking carbs and hard to start. Rebuilt the carbs adjusted floats they stopped leaking. Also got the clutch working properly after about a week. Quad shut off and backfired on me during a ride so I got a compression tester and one side was 180 and the other was in the 50s. I pulled off the head it seems I had pre deto. I rebuilt the top end with 66.50 wiseco pistons it had 65.50 before got new vf4 reeds the reeds it had were toast. The quad starts up first kick every single time. But after the break in and a full day of riding with no issues, a few days after that the quad rides boggy and unresponsive in the low end, once power band hits all the power hits as well.

    I take the quad out for another ride and when the quad warms up and I ride it hard as I start to shift down my quad begins to what I believe is a "misfires" and begins to shut off (as I hit the throttle it sounds very strange almost like no power is pushing through) until I hit 3rd or 2nd gear where my bike fully shuts off. Once it turns off on its own like this it's very hard to start. But once it does start it rides even worse than it was before.

     

     

    So finally I checked compression again it's still 150 on both sides just like after the rebuild. So I'm hoping my issue here is jetting. I just put 290 main jets in from the 310s o had before but the bike is still doing the same thing. No noticeable difference imo. 25 pilot jet, needle in middle groove. 

    Does my jetting sound right for these mods? Vf4 reeds, CPI pipes, cool head, 66.50 pistons, very slight porting (according to the guy who worked on my cylinders).

  13. 1 hour ago, trickedcarbine said:

    Leave the head on. Bend the solder in an L shape and get it over the direction of the wrist pin. Roll the motor over so it smushes the solder. FYI, make sure the solder is filed smooth after you cut it and make sure it goes all the way over to the edge of the bore where it meets the dome angle. 

    Gotcha, to roll the motor over can I do it with the kicker by hand or do I have to get to the flywheel or something? Also what thickness solder if it matters

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