Jump to content

Clueless87JFrame

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    72

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Clueless87JFrame

  4. 87 Banshee Rebuild....... and she lasted 15 min

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    I figure you torqued it in order and to spec since you seem to know more about this than most new Banshee guys. Good luck and keep us posted.

     

    Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk

    Thanks man and will do. Yeah I woulda never bought this thing if I didn't think I could have handled the rebuild somewhat easily. I always spend the extra time or money on a motor to replace everything that way it's ready to roll but I may have made a mistake with not lapping the cylinders or head from the start

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. 87 Banshee Rebuild....... and she lasted 15 min

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted · Edited by Clueless87JFrame

    Water caused deto or deto caused the water. I'm sure the head was torqued, right? Any loose or stripped studs? (Still leaning toward bad dome angle though)

     

    And I think you mentioned those orings not being able to seal that much pressure. A very smart guy years ago told me that the face of the dome clamped down is what seals in compression, and the oring is just to keep water out. That makes better sense to me than a little piece of viton holding up to the heat and pressure of combustion.

     

    Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk

    Yeah I was leaning towards the top of that cylinder being partially warped or the head. The only step I didn't take was lapping the head and cylinder before I put it together. Everything was torqued exactly like the manual said. Yeah I figured it was a metal-metal seal and the oring was just for insurance and to keep water out but man it's hard to imagine it ever would seal right with the jugs being separately bolted down and the head being one piece covering both jugs.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    • Like 1

  8. Shock Bushings

    in Suspension

    Posted

    Thanks, I'm lucky, my Uncle/Teacher said I don't have to pay for anything, since we have so much aluminum sitting around.

    Idk how long aluminum will last but you can give it a try. Most of the ones I've seen were teflon type material pressed in. I used bearing brass because I've got about a thousand lbs of it laying beside the lathe

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    • Like 1

  11. 87 Banshee Rebuild....... and she lasted 15 min

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    Is your primary gear OEM or the Hinson one? Aftermarket ones are notorious for leaking past the seal. A few globs of Yamabond on the key will fix it if that is the case.

     

    I've blown more than one oring and always had piston crown and dome damage. I was not able to tell what happened first though...the broken oring or deto. You have no pitting on your piston or dome.

     

    Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk

    Primary gear appears to be factory. I may have another picture let me check

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  13. 87 Banshee Rebuild....... and she lasted 15 min

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted · Edited by Clueless87JFrame

    But the ones I took out were the high temp style red orings. New ones I received were black and I asked the fella about it and he said "well we use to use red but the black work just as good"........ now here we sit with a f'ed up brand new piston that left pecker tracks on my freshly bored/honed/ported cylinder 15 min later. Fml

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  14. 87 Banshee Rebuild....... and she lasted 15 min

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    Pretty much seems like you know the O rings let go. That photo shows all the grey crud blowing between the water jacket and bore on the cylinder. Hard to tell if the scuffing is from ring damage or where coolant ran down. Coolant is actually quite abrasive when put between aluminum and steel.

    I was turning it pretty good when I heard the pop/spew sound it made when that oring let go. Engine quickly coasted back down to nothing and died. Would not start back. But the weird thing was - when I disassembled the engine the first go round - both orings around the cylinder domes were in perfect shape

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  15. 87 Banshee Rebuild....... and she lasted 15 min

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    After re reading this, there are a few things I see. First, that^ is quite a bit of timing on a motor still cranking 160psi with exhaust work.

     

    Second, if you know what to look for, a leak down may not be a big deal. But to someone who is just learning these things like your self, it is worth doing your first couple times. You said there was "No need" to do a leak down since you knew it needed to be rebuilt. But a leak down would show you exactley where the failure is from. You are doing all this top end work, did you do new crank seals as well? I couldn't begin to count how many buddy's bring me motors they say they just rebuilt everything twice and still have repeated failures. I throw the leak down on it and it's a crank seal. Funny part, typically the crank seal that's puking is the same one that there are failures on.

    Well I guess what I meant was - since I was already rebuilding it - I bought all new seals and gaskets, like I would normally do on a rebuilt. I don't reuse seals - ever. I just didn't imagine it would be a seal since there isn't any signs of fuel/oil leaking anywhere around any of the seals on the motor after looking closely at it right after she popped.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  16. 87 Banshee Rebuild....... and she lasted 15 min

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted · Edited by Clueless87JFrame

    I'd add that they are cheap ($65 a set) and can be at your door in 1 to 2 days. Even if I had the tooling and know how I still wouldn't make my own for what they cost.

     

    Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk

    Oh if that's all there is to it - I'll order them from whoever on here or eBay has them. Just didn't want to get the run around on some little aluminum domes and also didn't want to wait a month to get parts back if all that needed to be done was a little degree change. I need some for the 66.5 mm bore too. Didn't know how hard that was to come by. But either way this dang thing is about to get on my nerves already. Just want to get it running longer than 15 min hahaha

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  18. 87 Banshee Rebuild....... and she lasted 15 min

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    Get a hold of a builder on here is your best bet. FAST or Driveline.... Get the port measurements for SLeeper to find out your duration then report those specs to the chosen builder and let them either cut you some custom domes or order some shelf domes they think would work..

     

    or even get sleeper to get domes for ya...

    I can machine them if needed no problem. I'm not trying to win races I just want it to last at least a few runs more than it did the first time.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  20. 87 Banshee Rebuild....... and she lasted 15 min

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    Well the one in question is a 1992.

     

     

    Go play with some BBC ya demo lover. He's on the right track from now.. 4 pages in, its about time for a slight derail

    92 model - get on boats.net and order what you need. You can usually get away with ball honing those cast cylinders and slapping some pro-marine pistons back in, bearings (if needed) seals and some Loctite anaerobic gasket maker and torque everything back. One piece cranks so it's much easier. If I was going to guess I'd say $1000 or less

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  22. 87 Banshee Rebuild....... and she lasted 15 min

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    For pump get a 21cc dome from driveline with a 14* angle 9-10 mm wide band. Where was your jetting at? Those cylinders have port work so I'm just curious. As far as outboard goes I've been building and porting them for years and they are much more difficult than any shee engine once you get a handle on it. Do me a favor, measure from top of deck to top of ex port in mm if you can if not I'll convert it

    Yeah those are easier for me because I've been running and playing with them for 25 years haha. My first banshee and so far it's been a little nightmare. Yeah it was ported when I got it - then ports cleaned up again a few weeks ago before I rebuilt it. I'll measure it and see what I come up with. I left the jetting the same in the 34mm carbs since we didn't really change much just cleaned it up and rebuilt it.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  23. 87 Banshee Rebuild....... and she lasted 15 min

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    So with those pistons - which cool head would be the best to buy ? Which domes? And as far as ports - I was told they were ready to roll so that's why I put her back together. The port in the photo doesn't look good because it has aluminum growing on it. They looked great before I put it together - and the other sleeve/ports look fine. No scoring or compression loss whatsoever

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BHQ Quick Links

×
×
  • Create New...