Airic

And I guess maybe I'm incorrectly including the parking brake circuit in with the TORS. Either way, I was doing both at the same time when I disconnected and reconnected them.

It was just the slide on the right carb. The left was correct with the cut away towards the air filter. The tab on the right cap was busted, but the cut away was facing the cylinder on that carb. It only fired on the ether after I had disconnected the TORS. That was the first thing I did once I got it home. When I hooked it all back up, there was no fire.

Well I got it figured out. Two things: 1. When we reassembled the carbs at the sellers house, we put the slide on the right side carb in backwards. Dumb! And I know better. Oh well. 2. TORS was the original issue. When we removed and reinstalled the carbs originally, we screwed up the right side carb. When I got home, I removed the TORS but could not get fire with the exception of using ether. Once I got the carbs right, it fired right up and runs terrific. Thanks for the support.

I do have a tors elimination kit on order so once that arrives, I'll attempt without the old tors caps. Thinking maybe air leaking through them? The seals looked and felt fine, but I don't know.

Ok. I put the reeds and carbs back on, drained all the fuel and sprayed some ether through the air cleaner. Fired up instantly, so I instantly shut it down because I know it's not the best for your motor. Then I put fresh fuel in and kicked it again. Fired right up and tried to rev through the moon. I thought it was residual ether so I feathered the run switch until it finally backfired and I killed it. For arguments sake, I hooked all the original tors and parking brake back up. No fire. Then Disconnected tors and parking brake again. No fire. Nothing. Could this be carb related then? Maybe an air leak? Will get a leak down tester on order tonight. Can't hurt to own one I suppose. Is there something I'm missing?

Parking brake fully disengaged and unplugged. Is there a switch near the brake itself?

Carbs are disconnected as well

The TORS units are still on there, but the wires are disconnected and brain removed. Would it still be an issue? The slides are in the right way. Clutch play....yes there is a little play. I haven't adjusted the cable. Is there something in the clutch wiring that might cause it? I'll adjust it after work today. Thanks for the suggestions.

Soliciting advice. I've read many posts and I consider myself "fairly" savvy with these things, but I can't figure it out. I just bought a 99% stock '97 from the original owner (60 y/o gentleman). The only mod I see is a K&N air cleaner in a pro design box. When I looked at the quad it fired on the first kick cold (I felt the jugs and pipe to be sure). Idled excellent but didn't rev up, just bogged. We pulled the carbs and ensured the floats were not sunk or stuck. Everything was in order and all jets were clear. The little tube between the carb chokes was in tact as well. So I bought it at a great price thinking it was TORS related and an easy fix. Got it home and disconnected the plugs from the TORS caps, removed the TORS brain, and disconnected the throttle switch. Didn't fire after that. Plugs are wet. Getting spark when I touch them to the head. Compression is 110 on both cylinders. Pulled the reed valves and they look great. Not sure what to check next. I'm going to put fresh fuel in tomorrow for good measure. The wiring harness is virgin and not hacked anywhere I can see. What are the odds that a stock, well maintained bike would shear the key on the flywheel and throw the timing off? Haven't pulled that cover yet. I do not have an ohmmeter to check spark strength yet, but considering a purchase in my near future. Any other advice on something obvious I might be missing?