Sir_Fernandes
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Posts posted by Sir_Fernandes
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They were on some kind of custom made arms (said by the previous owner) which were wider than this one.
I bought the lsr arms after the elkas.
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First of all, sorry for this noob question
So i changed my front arms to Lonestar +2 +1 a-arms (previous/old model) but my elkas are so stiff they dont even preload..
Iam missing something here ?
Ever happened to anyone?
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Thank you guys for the help!
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I know but since I´m from Portugal I will pay around 360$ just for the tusk axle (including taxes, shipping, handling and duty) . I didn´t seen yet any european online store that provides that axle.
And a JL MX swinger will definitely hurt my wallet lol -
19 minutes ago, gusto said:
JL swinger
tusk axle
I´ve seen pretty good stuff earlier on a HQ topic about JL swingarms and it seems top notch quality.
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14 minutes ago, ginger said:
normally people get a JL engineering, fireball, or Stellar swing arm.
Rear hubs, is there any reason you want to get away from stock? most people run them unless they have some money to burn or need to go lighter.
I have a durablue axle, i havent had any issues, but i also only have it because thats what came with the quad when i bought it.
Ok Im not quite familiar with those brands except Fireball, I´ll do some research for the best swingarm.
Theres no reason at all to get away from stock hubs just a new ones to come along with the package
I´ve seen a lot of people complaining about the durablue axle saying they bent.. That´s the reason i´ll go with the RPM axle -
Hi there
Well Im willing to buy a hole new back for my Shee including a roundhouse swingarm with carrier, rear axle with hubs because the stock carrier and swingarm is driving me nuts! lol
For the axle I was thinking a RPM Dominator II but which rear hubs should i buy? Durablue ? LSR ?
For the roundhouse swingarm whats the best in the business nowadays? Houser ? LSR ? Walsh?
I usually ride on fast trails with some jumps
Thanks!! -
2 hours ago, ginger said:
if you do that, you will want to keep your gearing as the motor will pull at a higher rpm than what you currently have, so say right now your pulls from 4-10k rpm shears will pull from 6-12k for example not actual numbers. so you will need to keep the gearing to get out of the hole and it will top out at a higher rpm.
Hum interesting i'll keep that in mind thanks a lot!
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5 hours ago, ginger said:
i have the 15-41 setup and it pulls hard but still has enough low end for some trail riding.
I still think it sould need more top speed and where i live the most of the trails are fast. Im still with fmf fatty pipes and powercore II exhaust but im looking forward to buy some Shearers small bore in frame soon .. (i hope)
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10 hours ago, trickedcarbine said:
- 15/39. If you hunt real hard you may find a 38 rear for the 6 bolt style. Any more top end then that and you'll have to try a 16/41. Can't really see the typical 4mil wanting to really pull a 16 tooth front though but it's probably doable.
Thank you for your answer! I´ll buy a 39t rear sprocket and then i´ll test a 38t.
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Hello there im wondering if there is a better gearing for my banshee since i ride on the tarmac and dirt as well.. Is there anyone who used a gearing that goes plus top speed without losing that much performance on tarmac and dirt (specially) or is better to stay with this setup ? Also when i ride on tarmac i go to the top speed easily with this gearing of course..
My current setup is this:
-> +4mm stroker crankshaft with +5mm longer rods
-> 66.50 Stroker Pistons
-> Ported Cylinders
-> Keihin 35mm PWK Airstriker Carbs
-> F.A.S.T Head with 22cc stroker domes (I run with 98 octane pump gas)
-> 15/41 Gearing
-> +2 Advance Timing Plate
-> K&N Air Filter with airboxThanks!
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It´s 98 RON
Sorry Zilla I misunderstood what you said about that FAST before.. I thought you were saying to contact Hot Rods fast lol and yes im not in States.. Portugal to be more precise
Right now it has:
K&N Filter
V-Force 4 Reeds
FMF fatty pipes with powercore II exhausts
Stock Engine and Carbs -
Well I asked them and I just received this message:
"Unfortunately we do not have any research or development of using a cool head with our stroker crankshaft here. I would recommend talking with them or looking online to see what combo’s people are running. I apologize for the inconvenience and if you have any other questions just let me know!"
Im still running the Stock Engine but soon i´ll replace for a stroker crank and bigger pistons (66.45mm) as I said before.
About the cool head.. I saw some guys just order custom domes for their Banshee stroker or they just cut the domes
How reliable is this image ?
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Thanks Zilla!
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Hi guys
I recently bought a banshee and i already bought a +4mm Hot Rods crank with long rods +5mm wich requires the Vertex Long Rod pistons (Ordered the size 66.45mm) and the G093 gasket kit because im using the OEM cylinders.
Wich cool head i should buy? Stroker domes? i run 98 octanes i think its 20cc domes
In the future i was thinking to buy bigger cylinders but is it worth buying?
I aprecciate your help please.
Elka Stage 3 Standard Travel
in Suspension
Posted
Thank you for your time gentlemen, i'll read that topic.
When i bought this banshee it came with those custom made arms and ohlins suspension. Then i decided to buy elkas because the ohlins were over used and when i ordered (along with my weight, riding style etc) i said it the arms were custom made but they were longer than stock (even more than the lsr +2 +1). Those arms got broken while riding then recently i bought the lsr arms and got this problem that im trying to fix.
Sorry for my poor english.