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Drizzy

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Posts posted by Drizzy

  1. I dont see anything wrong with the other guys video
     
    It's basically what i do. Adjust until the Allen screw is tight, then back it off a tad. Then make sure i have a little play in my lever then make sure I have adjustment left in the lever for the distant future.

    This is the way I adjusted it and didn’t line up arrows. I had a different issue but i finally got my clutch working. My plates were sticking even though I would let bike warm up. I adjusted it this way still couldn’t get clutch to hold bike so I ended up jacking the rear end and slammed it in gear and that fixed my whole issue. Not sure if its because i have a new basket and clutch that caused it. Guess I should of just rode around block and my issue would of been solved.
    Thanks everyone that put in advice!
  2. The actuator arm should meet the arrow at the first pint of resistance on the pressure plate.
    Meaning, adjust the pancake.. Hold the pressure plate with your hand. Grab the actuator and pull it towards the clutch side.
    You want the pressure plate to START moving where the actuator meets the line on the case.
    Forget about your fucking handlebars or anything else at this point. If you haven't done step one, you're doing it wrong.

    This is how I adjusted it when I put in my billet clutch and new plates about two weeks ago. Lined up arrows. Drove around block and clutch was working better than ever. This is what I have no idea why levers or anything else would fuck up the adjustment. I have a spare cable so I’m throwing it on just to to be safe and re adjusting pancake again. For the 3rd time.


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  3. If you start at the pancake bearing and work your way back to the lever, you shouldn't have any issues.

    Adjust the pancake until the actuator arm lines up with the arrow on the case. Once that's done, you're finished there.

    Then set it up on the clutch perch.

    Done.

    This really shouldn't take longer than 10-15 minutes tops.

    Should the lines still line up even with aftermarket levers and the taller stem.? Been hearing to just tighten the pancake just enough until you feel resistance

     

     

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  4. The mark lines up before the lever goes on. You should be able to pull the actuator over by hand and be roughly close when the shift rod, ball, and adjuster make contact. Loosen the lever adjuster all the way, then hook up the cable. Once hooked up adjust the lever. Do you own a Clymer's manual?

    No but I have a Yamaha service Manual. I haven’t tried to do that just adjusting after it’s hooked up at the case. I just know it was good when I had stock levers then I had to adjust pancake bearing. Now it’s back to not working with new stem and anti vibe clamp. I can get slack nd everything on levers. Have a feeling I just need to re adjust pancake again which is what I don’t want to do.


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  5. Update.

    Ended up taking clutch cover off and adjusted the pancake bearing and put it back together and got the clutch to work properly. Today I got an Alba stem with anti vibe clamp which adds two inches to the bars in height. Now my clutch is back to not working 🤬 same issue as when I installed the asv levers. thinking parting ways with the damn asv levers never had any issues with stocks. Or thinking about replacing my cable..... not sure if they make a longer one?? Any advice would help

     

     

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  6. if your lever has tension and its tight then something has gone wrong. where is the clutch arm where the cable attaches when it starts to get tension on it.

    If I squeeze lever the marks line up. It was fine before these levers. I had just replaced clutch basket to billet and new plates. Bout week ago. Adjusted pancake bearing and the arrow markings on case. Not sure if the levers threw adjustment out. I can’t get the clutch lever to get any free play at all


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  7. Re adjust the pancake. Don't worry so much about the arrow on the cases so much, but getting it close helps the throw. What cable? I've never had any trouble as of yet. 

    My old clutch cable should work with the asv levers correct.? Just not sure why it would need readjust the pancake again. I was having a real hard time to get that cable to go into the lever ended up unhooking cable from cases to hook it up to lever and it was pretty hard to get it to hook back up at the cases. If that helps with my issue


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  8. This is why I don't like the asv levers, not enough throw and hard on clutches. But there should be an adjustment screw on the back side of the lever itself which pushes the lever farther away from the bars and gives you more throw (clutch pull) it' just a little Allen set screw

    Yep still not disengaging clutch fully I guess I’m going to have to take that clutch cover off


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  9. This is why I don't like the asv levers, not enough throw and hard on clutches. But there should be an adjustment screw on the back side of the lever itself which pushes the lever farther away from the bars and gives you more throw (clutch pull) it' just a little Allen set screw

    Okay thank you I’ll check it out


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  10. Just installed some asv levers on my banshee and now my clutch won’t hold bike when put in gear. Just put new basket and clutch but was adjusted just right with my old levers. Anybody that has installed these did you have to re adjust the pancake bearing and free play? Lever has tension on it. Wanted to be sure before I took off my clutch cover off and have to drain all new fluids.

     

     

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  11. I just put the same bars on mine. I relocated the key switch under the seat. Several people make an aluminum piece that mounts across the rear holes in the gas tank. Pretty slick.


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    So only way to have these is to relocate key switch?


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  12. there will be  little divet in the bolt where the shift arm spring rides, pull the basket and shift shaft you will see it, bend the tab back on the lock washer and crack the lock nut to remove.  they are un expensive to replace. if it were me id just get a new one and replace it any ways and re adjust it. I know what your saying, its nbd it still drives, but youd like to be able to put your bike in neutral and make srue your getting proper gear engagement with all the other gears too

    Can you tell me what parts to order to replace before I tear down again?


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  13. its more than likely the wore eccentric screw, its very easy to adjust. The clymers manual shows you how to do it exactly as well as how to bench test your transmission (which you wont be doing) you will have to remove your clutch basket though. a worm or un properly adjust screw will cause it

    Is this what they call the shift arm bolt as well? And how do you know the bolt is worn? Wish I would of known when I changed this clutch this weekend I would of checked it lol

     

     

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