Derpy Drifter
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Posts posted by Derpy Drifter
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Also, when starting the longer stroke stuff, make sure you are using the kicker to roll the crank toward TDC and then give it the swift kick. Do your best to avoid hitting it with the starting fluid.
Good info I didn’t know that about the long strokers. Might come in handy when my 521 is running in a few weeks. Also I totally agree on the starting fluid. Good way to wipe out the bearings. I’ve always used a plastic water bottle filled with 2 stroke gas and a hole in the lid for those situations. Muccchh safer
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now the question is if i should return the motor back to the ported work, or leave it stock for now.
Leave it stock for now, the issue to me sounds electrical after reading the whole post, but the fewer variables the better. I highly recommend buying a brand new harness from Kevin Gallindo aka South Texas Banshee. I have one and the quality is great and price is awesome. He’s on eBay and Facebook. Either that or completely unwrap your harness and get rid of anything non essential to the motor running. But honestly for 100ish bucks, buy one of Kevin Gs harnesses and save a big headache.
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You're probably the only person in the history of history running FMFs on a banshee motor bigger than 400cc's
Yeah well, we’ll see I guess. I’m more than likely gonna buy the big bore shearer in frames that Tricked Carbine has with tax return in the next month. Unless somebody else has a better deal but I doubt it. But honestly, at this point I kind of want to run the FMFs for a minute just to see how bad they are compared to real pipes. Just for shits and giggles.
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Put it this way, having owned many FMF piped banshees and having a few on the dyno, I can say with 100% that your engine didn't rev to 12K rpm. Figuring on a dyno with barely any load, they can barely rev past 10k, you are not hitting 12-13K with a load.
Well, maybe I’m wrong. I don’t know. All I know for sure is I got clocked at that speed and the math says that’s the rpm it turned. And I know that it was only the third or fourth time running it out that hard before the pistons and bearings exploded. I apologize for my ignorance on pipes
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No base gasket...ensures nice tight squish huh?
Yes, it does. Far enough apart to keep the pistons and head from getting too friendly with each other though. I don’t recommend everyone do all the stupid shit I’ve done with these motors but that is one that works, reliably even. Not saying it’s guaranteed, obviously it’s a good idea to check your squish whenever changing parts in the top end whether it’s a gasket, jug, piston or head. Make of it what you will
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I guarantee he doesn't know what a squish band is.
Yeah it’s probably one of those little stress things you squeeze when you’re dealing with ignorance. That’s what I thought it was for sure
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Any porting or timing?
Yes. I had +2 timing. And at that particular time I was running an eBay top end kit before I decided to put money into it and buy real shit. I actually ported the cylinders myself, had no idea what I was doing yet, just hogging shit out lol. It sounds like bullshit but I swear it worked. Part of the proof I was turning that many rpm is both pistons and wrist pin bearings exploded on me. Here’s pictures of the destruction. Hard to see but the bottom end was so full of chunks and shit it wouldn’t even turn over anymore.
Also not sure if kawa was talking about me but I did that too, and shaved the head. I found out the hard way that you can only shave the stock head up to about 160psi before you break into the entry coolant passage, the other 10psi to get to 170 came from shaving the top of the cylinders. And obviously you have to re-cut the relief in the head for the piston to not smack it. I did the clay test to find my squish and all that.
It made a lot of power on that setup for me just googling shit and trying crap old hot rodders I know told me. Would’ve liked to dyno it, pulled the front wheels at the top of third when the powerband kicked in.
Again I know it sounds like bullshit but why would I lie, and it’s not like I’m saying it would compete with my 521. I’m just saying it was some pretty damn fast garbage lol
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What pipes with that RPM?
FMF golds.. yes I know I’ve been thoroughly informed they’re junk but that’s what the math says. I was clocked at 97.7mph with 14/44 sprockets and 20 inch tires. My trail tech vapor said 97.9mph, which bring .2mph off at that speed is pretty impressive I feel
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I ran 170psi on 93 octane 32:1 for a long time before I went with the 521cc kit. Never had any issues with pinging or detonation, and I was turning 12-13k rpm. I calculated that based on speed, tire size and gearing. Have you guys had problems with it?
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No you can do the whole top end in the bike. Just pull the plastics and gas tank off. Also you can delete the base gasket and just use RTV black or gray. It gives you a little more bottom and top end compression. Enough to feel a little extra kick in power, and I’ve never had any problems with it. Just clean both surfaces with brake clean on a towel and use a thin layer of RTV. But honestly like they said that is a nothing leak. You can see if it even affects the way it runs by spraying starting fluid at it while idling, it’ll either rev up or bog down if it affects it.
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I hope you got that 521 ported OP. And if you did, the person ported it should be able to give you a good slightly rich starting point. Hell, a good vendor you got the jugs from should be able to give you a starting point.
I got 72mm bore 10mil super serval cub cylinders with a clean up port already done. I did the port match on the case myself. I gotta say, from looking at these cylinders thoroughly, I don’t think there’s much room at all for porting. I could be wrong though
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I run 180 mains in my 39's. I like it a little rich. I usually dont touch my carbs all year around. I'm also just remembered im not qualified to give advice on this stuff due to ignorance. Keep that in mind.
We like to say that at my work. “I’m not qualified to help you with that. I don’t make enough for that!” Haha. Anyway though I’d rather be a tad rich too, makes for easier starting and personally gives me a little more peace of mind on such an expensive set of pistons and domes. Plus I run Champion RN2C plugs, which seem to be very clean burning. I’ve knowingly ran them a bit too rich for a decent amount of time and they weren’t even close to fouling up. Unlike the NGK BR8ES plugs I use to run, they seem to foul up easy. Just my opinion
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Ahh. I knew of the fluid recovery part but I guess I assumed for it to blow past the radiator cap, it must’ve began overheating. I see I was wrong there
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a 521 at haspin, there might be one spot you can open it up and that would be the short drag strip.
well if you are running fmfs, you should be fine with that much chokage of the engine. Chris Brown choked Rihanna less than you are choking this engine.
LOLOLOLOLOL that has me rolling. Buddy of mine was talking about beats headphones while back and said you know it should be beats by brown
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The banshee already has an expansion tank....
I could be wrong here, but that’s an overflow tank for after the coolant has already gotten hotter than ideal. Whereas an expansion tank will help keep the coolant from getting that hot.
And you guys are right about the bigger hoses, I wasn’t really thinking that through
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Alright cool. It would also help to just increase the fluid volume of the cooling system. Larger diameter hoses, expansion tank, stuff like that. However that increases weight probably more than the battery and fan together
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I know, it’s not and issue just a huge heat difference when going fast, compared to going slow in tight trails. Fan would be nice to have just to have that fan pulling some more air through the radiator when you’re not going so fast.
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I agree
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I say go for it dude, it’d be nice to know in case. However they’re right, if tuned properly it shouldn’t be an issue. But I’m finishing up my 521 super serval cub now and I’m still gonna ride my same places. So I might be the one to find one that works. Not sure if the 521cc will enjoy tighter trails with hill climbs throughout lol
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I’m not sure that wouldn’t fit either, the YFZ450 has much more space available for a fan than the Banshee. I looked into this as well awhile back for shits and giggles since I ride tight trails occasionally too. I think it was the Yamaha R6 street-bike fan that was the closest to fitting the Banshee. Without modifying or removing the grill+shroud of course, which would look idiotic. Even still, that one was like 1/4” too thick I think.
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Nick is right.
But if you do it, order a moose fan for a raptor/yfz. Then wire it into a small RC battery or Antigravity battery with a toggle switch.
I’m not sure that wouldn’t fit either, the YFZ450 has much more space available for a fan than the Banshee. I looked into this as well awhile back for shits and giggles since I ride tight trails occasionally too. I think it was the Yamaha R6 street-bike fan that was the closest to fitting the Banshee. Without modifying or removing the grill+shroud of course, which would look idiotic
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The bansheehq fb swap and sell page will yield you some BB pipes. If it were me I wouldn't even wanna run those fmfs on there lol Would be like you trying to blow a golf ball through a coffee straw
You’re right, I don’t really want to either. However if the time comes for our annual trip to Haspin acres for Memorial Day weekend and that’s the only thing I haven’t gotten, you can bet your ass I’m going riding lol. I think we’ve all been at that point of being dead set on riding and not letting anything stop us right!?
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Ohh yeah you said shearers that’s right, bad memory
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Definitely start hunting for different pipes. Those FMF's on there will not move the kind of heat that motor needs, so keep an eye on plugs. You may end up having to make it a tad rich to keep temps down.
Ahh, I didn’t even think about that honestly I just figured it was a power restriction. Do you still have those CPIs?
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Not a hobby for the faint walleted.
Very true I know that, I’ve got over 2k in this motor so far and it’ll be almost 3k with the new carbs and clutch setup. But it’ll be worth it when I smoke my buddy’s big KTM 2 stroke lol. Almost had him on ported stock cylinders, but I’ll get him now for sure!
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Tranny oil
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
I’ve always run 10w-30 conventional motor oil and never had issues with the clutches sticking, and no damage to the transmission. I’m considering switching to 50/50 ATF and heavy duty hydraulic oil on the new motor and clutches. I work with hydraulics regularly in my career and that mixture proves to be good. With all the detergents in ATF keeping things clean and the high film strength of the hd hydraulic oil. Anybody have input to add on that?
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