Jump to content

Lonestar92

Members
  • Posts

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Lonestar92

  1. Anybody tried the db electrical stator? I've seen good reviews on some of their other products like starters and alternators and they also have a 1 year warranty on all products. Seems like it may be a decent option, but I know oem is usually top choice
  2. Meter is good, tested with my snap on meter and my buddy's fluke
  3. That's what I figured, just found it weird that the coil was also testing bad
  4. Just wondering if anybody has ever seen the stator and ignition coil both go out at the same time? Threw my bike back together and went to fire it, no spark. Coil and stator both tested bad on resistance checks, I just find it odd that both shit out at the same time.
  5. Okay, thanks for the help. I wasn't sure how much resistance it would have pressing it on. Most of the things I work on daily require using heat or liquid nitrogen to make things fit
  6. I guess stripped may be the wrong word, crossthreaded is probably more accurate. Material was there, but it was screwed up
  7. I guess I'm really just paranoid about ruining the crank. There was enough material for the threads to cut, I'm just worried about the material being weakened from what had been done to it in the past. I know heating can demagnetize a magnet, I was just going to heat the inside of the flywheel where it rides on the crankshaft, as far from the magnet as possible, with minimal heat to keep from damaging the magnet. I wasn't planning to heat any more than 150°,just enough to help it slide on a little easier
  8. I was just worried with heating it that it would go too far up the taper since the inside diameter of the flywheel will expand with heat.
  9. I got my banshee not too long ago and decided to pull my flywheel off to clean it up. After I pulled it I discovered the threads were stripped on the crankshaft. I chased the threads with the proper 12x1.25 die and ordered a new flywheel nut. It's time to put it back on and I'm afraid if I tighten the nut to press the flywheel back on that it may pull the threads and ruin the crank. The other option I thought of is heating the center of the flywheel and tapping it on with a sleeve and hammer, then torque the nut onto the crank. The only problem I see with this is pushing the flywheel on too far (not sure if it's possible) and getting the hot flywheel up against the crank seal. Is there anything to keep the flywheel form pressing on too far? Any help would be greatly appreciated, trying to save myself from buying a new crank
×
×
  • Create New...