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Banshee 400

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Posts posted by Banshee 400

  1.  
     
    If you are serious about mid range you need PT mids. No exceptions.
    If you are not serious about trails or MX and just want 'general pipes' for all purpose riding then get SLP's or pro circuits which will not come on as soon but make more peak power. 

    Just questioning it, what are the Trinity’s good for?


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  2. You will be able to ride much faster and longer in just investing into suspension / chassis components vs jacking up your motor with shit stock suspension....
     
    the motor wont be "faster" per say but youl be able to get more power to the ground and actually use it with proper suspension / arms.  just me .02

    That’s my next upgrade along with engine mods thinking if elkas all around


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  3. Let's start with, what is your "budget"? That is going to be the most helpful piece of advice for us to give you options.. then what kind of riding do you do? Get us those answers and we can go for there.. and also a total list of what you have now will help as you may be able to improve from what you have. Cause if you have a true trinity stage whatever, usually the cyls have been over ported. And with that said your cyl you have will not work with a 4mm crank.. jmo

    $2000-$2500 on a complete build turn key ready and trail riding and some track riding


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  4. What does "mostly stock" mean? How are we going to give advice when we've no clue what you have? Increased timing, displacement, and compression equals more performance. That is a given on a general level.


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    Just stated what i have in my reply...


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  5. you can make it a BANSHEE 400 and it will be fast
    jk but seriously there is a lot of things you can do.
    yes a 4 mil will make it quicker, but there is more to it than just changing out the crank. Id pick a sponsor on here to do your work and contact them. 
    I would start with after market pipes that will support your riding style, reeds and some advanced timing (adjustable timing plate) also learning to tune your carbs will be a good skill to learn once you start changing stuff 

    As of now I have trinity stage IV and Keihin 34mm pj no air box and the adjustable-timing plate I guess it’s not mostly stock but I want to get more speed out of it b6f3c2656df7242626839c7aaf6d2c34.jpg


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  6. I have a few stock parts for sale

     

    Two radiators-$20 each, not the prettiest but they work

    Steering stem-$30

    2 sets of heal guards -$35 each

    Stock front brake lines-$15

    Foot brake lever- $15

    A-arms-$80

    Full set of blue plastics they have stress marks-$135

     

    All these prices plus shipping shoot me an offer on the items

     

     

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  7. That's not any indication of your clutch is good or bad.

    You need to look at your steels. If they are blue from heat, your clutch is probably no good. Severe heat will glaze your fibers. Some times they can be roughed up with sandpaper and you can get a bit more out of them.

    More importantly is the thickness of the steels and fibers. This is the life of your clutch. Your clymers manual will have the new thickness listed and minimum thickness listed for both.

    You can by clutches from any sponsor on here damn near. Rocky Mountain atv, cascade, a number of places.

    I seriously doubt that jetting has anything to do with your issue.

    Did I miss where you answered the question on gearing?


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    It has stock gearing never been changed but hasn't been looked at in a long while so not sure the condition


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  8. I've got a 2002 banshee bored .40 trinity stage IV expansions with fmf silencers 34mm keihin pj carbs with k&n air filters no air box...... carbs have 150 main jets and I moved the clip all the way down on the needle.... the problem is when I'm in 6th maxed out I'm only going like 30-40 feels like it's starving for fuel what jets should I go to if it's not jets what could it be?

     

     

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  9. That's a bit of a job. Not hard, just a bit of work. If you tip the bike on its side, you can pull the clutch cover without draining the oil. Coolant still has to be drained. About at a 45 degree angle. But, if you have to pull the motor the cases need drained anyway, so your choice.

    Once the clutch cover is removed, you probably won't be able to see if the seal is damaged. But if it is, something typically caused the damage so you might find debris in the bottom. This would be a good sign that you are onto something. If not, you'll likely have to remove the clutch and maybe even the primary drive gear on the pto side of the crank.

    Unfortunately, to change the crank seals, the engine cases have to be split due to a rib in the middle of the seal.

    0c402b61e9d3b090c4c22c5e61856ea3.png

    You can do this without messing with the top end, however, this might be a good time to go through everything, but I don't know your situation or your motor so that's your call. But you can just pull the bottom case half off and replace the seals.

    Supplies needed. Clutch cover gasket and yamabond or 1211 or similar petroleum impervious sealant plus new seals.


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    Very good info man thank you


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  10. Check your coolant level. If it is coolant your level will obviously drop. You can also smell the difference between coolant and oil.


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    I'll give it a check! Also what is gonna all need replacing when I replace the seals since I have to split the cases?


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