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Ccmarler15

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Everything posted by Ccmarler15

  1. I have started a return with the eBay guy. He just sent it out like an hour ago lol. I found a crank I believe will work. I'm trying to stay with a stock rod length. Will this work? https://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=414&cat=200&page=1 Its only 350$. I can afford that. Will I be happy and will it last?
  2. Where should i order my crank from then? That's the only thing I'm not ordering from the actual makers website. And of course the radiator and hoses I'm getting of ebay
  3. The crank is a low hour OEM crank taking out of a perfectly running banshee. Like 80 sold and he has a good record of banshee parts for like 6 years it says.
  4. And hell your not insulting me. I'm new that's why I wanted to join this place. I want to build my motor and it last ten years or so. Thanks for the help again guys. This place is helping me with my build a lot more than you probably know lol
  5. He examined the crsnk thoroughly. He builds motors for a living I trust his word. Best around here. What makes the crank true and welded? And what's the difference? I can return the crank and get a trued and welded and a fresh rebuild for like $80 more. I havent received my crank in the mail yet. I have a list together of everything I need to get the motor running, but I'm also installing a new water pump and radiator. Part. Cost. Crank. 230 Piston kit. 310 OEM random parts and bolts and such 135 Radiator and hoses 90 Water pump kit with metal spindal 80 Kick starter 85 Look about right? I can get a trued and welded crank for like 300
  6. Trickedcarbine I'm just ordering a new idler gear from the Yamaha factory for 55. Along with the washers and a new clip. Along with a new crank key because the old one was split in half. 98_sheester I will take lots of pictures! I got my shee with out ever hearing her run. When that day comes in a week or two, due to money and shipping, it'll be a glorious day! I'll share a video of first time for in it up on here if I can. And thanks but I got a good mechanic with fast return time. I actually talked to my mechanic today. Cleaned I was at 64.85mm for the jug, so I'm ordering 65mm pistons from wiesco this week. Once I get them he will finish my jugs. I also brought in my cases and crank when I talked to him today. He examined the crank and said everything is fine with the crank that he would use it. He examined the case that I was worried about, due to the damage on it. He said its fine, the reason that they must have had to rebuild it last time was from a rod bearing going out. Do you think I should just use my crank I have or use the one I just ordered? I ordered a used crank from a legit dealer. Anything I need to do to either of these cranks in order to use them? Or should I return it and get a trued and welded rebuild crank for like $60 more?
  7. I actually just found the part from the Yamaha OEM store. No bearing in the idler gear. Its a $60 dollar fix. $70 for everything I need that was lost in the motor.
  8. The circlip for the idler. I may have to get a new idler gear because mine seems wore out and has play in it. Unless there is a bearing in the idler I can replace. Again this is my first iime splitting cases on a banshee. I'm replacing everything I see or think needs replaced. Thanks for the help Gravel!
  9. Sorry I just joined last night. My tranny is still together besides the idler gear. I just have to out the drum and forks back together. What will need loctite? Besides the key for the fly wheel. And a couple main bolts. That's it right? And the Crank is OEM so it should have the dowels.
  10. I have a manual. And yes he isn't doing all the work yet on the jugs. He's cleaning them then letting me know what size to order then when the pistons come in he's going to finish them. I'm sorry I thought I said I'm pretty much going back stock. I ordered a OEM Crank. I'm trying to go as stock as possible. It looks like it'll be 65.00 mm pistons. The left side of the crank housing has been beat up or scraped up from old crank or old metal that was in there. I've been trying to post some pictures but they say they are to big. I don't quite under stand number 3. In reference to the cool heads? I want to be able to bolt the right on like the OEM head on the OEM head bolts.
  11. OK so got a banshee because I wanted to build it from the case up. I have a few questions about a lot of little things. I'll upload picture with this. My case has some wear from the left side of the crank. The right side is perfectly fine. My main question about the cases is, will they need taken to a machine shop? If so I believe the guy that is doing my jugs can do this also? I've cleaned the cases almost as good as I can. And help for the case cleaning? Second, since I'm doing the entire motor I'm replacing the water pump spindal and bearings on that. Any notes to look for when ordering that? Most of the kits say hot rods kit. Does this matter? Or does it have to be a standard OEM kit? Because I can't find any. I'm also installing a new oversized radiator during this build. Along with new coolant lines. Anything else need done to have a completely new cooling system? I am also installing cool heads. Any tips on them? Or are they a bolt right on with no difference from the stock head? I believe the banshee blew up because they had on some funky air box boot on the left side. Which I am replacing both boots during this build. I also found that the idler washer and circlip had gone through the motor. I will be replacing them with OEM parts. Do I need a circlip tool to install? I am getting Wiseco pistons. I've done a top end rebuild on a banshee this is my first time splitting the cases. I am also replacing all the oil seal gaskets with a kit. Any advice on the rv you prefer to use? All advice is welcome. Thanks in advance!
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