Stevenhaines02

Running 300 main jets with 30 pilots, airbox without lid, +4 on timing

My banshee fires up 1st kick when its cold. After i warm it up and rip around a lil then stop for 20 mins-hour the thing will not kickstart. Pull it and it starts as soon as i let the clutch out.... Compression tester shows 155 and 155 both cylinders. Its bored out .40 over with 22cc domes in the cool head. Does that compression sound about right?

Stock carbs Fmf fattys with powercore 2 silencers Stock airbox no lid and foam filter 345 ft above sea level .40 over bore with cool head 22cc domes +4 on timing 91 octane ethanol free mixed at 40:1 klotz r50 Ambient temp 70-80 degrees F*

Studs are still in the case

i bought all new cylinder alignment pins.... Like a dumbass i thought i could just grab the old shitty ones with a pair of channel locks and twist em out... Now thier out of round and tore up but still stuck. I know i know i should have just left em and only replaced the one i was missing, but the damage is done. What are your guys suggestions for getting these suckers out? Thanks

anyone know the max sprocket size i can use with this case saver?

Thanks. Thats inside diameter,correct?

Gunna have to get new fuel line and vent hoses for my stock carbs.. I believe i read the fuel line itself is 1/4" ID. Cant find anything on vent hose size...... Can somebody confirm sizes for me please. Thanks!

I take that back, waterpump bearing is marked "nachi japan"

How are nsk i think thier called

Can annybody tell me if the waterpump bearing has a shield on either side? My rebuild kit stated some bearings require shields to be removed, as they are not OEM bearings but same fitment. The waterpump bearing they sent me has a shield on both sides. Thanks again

Since i put it together in the wrong direction and will be pulling my flywheel again annyway thats exactly where it will end up.. Lol thanks for the quick response

Everybodys hate and insecurity about the use of a degree key vs a plate aside...can somebody answer a simple question for me..... To advance timing, should the flywheel be degreed clockwise or counter clockwise on the crank. Thanks.

I got it in pieces, painted everything. just wanna get the motor put together and in. Been so long since its looked anything like a banshee....

Somehow i lost case bolt 14.... Am i safe to torque my cases together and just add the missing bolt when i get one.

My checks arnt that glorious lol

Sprinklerman, are you in the fire protection line of work? Just curious cause im a sprink foreman myself.

you guys are a big help! Thanks alot. Now.... Best way to get the sealant off the sealing surfaces so i can get some new stuff on there and seal her up? Used thinner and a scotch brite pad the first time but that was a pain in the ass!

All torqued together with the stock half clip in and it turns smooth but shes still close.. Im gunna roll with it.

Just busted out the calipers and measured from stud to stud and the center of conrod lines up with what appears to be perfect center of the two studs, but the crankshaft still looks off center to the stator side.... My clutch side bearing is all the way on so it isnt even possible to move the shaft any more in that direction. Conrods line up to center of studs and crankshaft spins smooth and true. Only thing is its close to the case on the stator side. Am i safe to assume thats the fit of this crank/ case? Wish i took a picture of it before yanking the stock mains and replacing them!

Just got home from work and yanked the crank out, took the full clip off the TZ and used the stock half clip. Everything is spinning true now.... This was suggested by another member in my duplicate post. Gunna try it with the top on and torqued down in a lil bit. I will keep you guys updated.

I accidentally made a double post... The other has all the pics and some input from other members.... If a mod can delete this duplicate post id appreciate it. Sorry about the double guys

What kind of issues?

When i loosened the case nuts it spun easier, now with the top off and seals removed it spins free but i can still feel/hear a like a lil rubbing in the stator side...

Yes i bought the shee off a fella who just stashed it in his shed when he bought a yfz450. Said it was low on compression when he put it away. When i got the jugs off, one of the rings was a lil wonky on the right side and the cylinder wall had very light scoring to match. Decide to just do fresh seals all around, new mains, fresh bore/top end. Damn i shoulda left it alone lol