LoveThePolice
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Posts posted by LoveThePolice
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i'm from Perth wa..
I would start by getting a tors delete kit.
You are rich on your main to. i was at 300main 27.5pilot with your mods and was still bit rich.
Are your carb slides in correct carbs? half moon out?
tube in between carbs connected?
Had a 27.5 pilots with vforce 4 reeds, it is to small, it would just run with the air screw out at one turn & it took a fair few kicks to start. Run the 30 pilots, I have a pair I could send you, from Far North Queensland, depends on how soon you need em.
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Alright, I will go to the shop tomorrow and get some 30 pilots and 300 mains.
Thanks for the help.
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Put a fucking 30 pilot in there.
Will go to the store and see if they have any tomorrow.
I don't see how that could be the problem if it's run fine on 27.5's before at equivalent temps and altitudes.
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Just an update lads:
- Compression: as suggested by the Clymer manual by putting my thumb on the empty spark plug socket and kicking it. My thumb is pushed out indicating sufficient compression. Going to get a gauge tomorrow for an accurate reading.
- Spark: having the spark plug out of the cylinder, I kick the engine and sure enough, a spark is emitted.
- Fuel: took the carbs apart and there's fuel in the float bowl.
- Jetting: put the pilot air screws at 2 turns out, needle jets at middle clip, 320 mains, 27.5 pilots (cannot get 30's before I go away, plus it was working fine before).
- Syncing: Synced the carbs as per Clymer instructions. Throttle valves rise at identical time.
I have literally no idea what else could be wrong. Looks to me like it's got all the foundations for combustion.
Any suggestions?
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I've never had a 30 pilot before and it has run pretty damn well in the past.
I tried sticking pilot screws in and then out a turn with no change in either circumstance.
I have ensured that the float bowl with the choke jet is on the right carb.
I don't really know what else it could be :/
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How can I be rich when the choke helps? When it runs better when hot?
I have not done a plug chop, but will on sunday
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Western Australia. Still have TORS. It's about 25-30c here this time of year
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Hi,
I have a 2011 Yamaha Banshee with a list of (mostly airflow related) mods. You can read about her in my previous posts, but it will suffice to say that I have FMF fatty pipes and Powercore 2 silencers, vForce 4 Reeds, a Toomey 2 into 1 air filter, +4 timing, etc.
Anyway, I have never had her jetted quite right. Not well enough to start perfect from cold at least (which I hear is a common issue). Once she warms up she's always been spot on. I'm running 320 mains with 27.5 pilots.
The problem I am having is as follows:
- I turn the fuel petcock to on with fresh, 32:1 mixed 98RON fuel, flick the ignition switch, and turn the key.
- I kick 3 times softly, then with full force.
- This pretty much always does nothing, so I put the choke out to max.
- After 15-20 kicks, she will splutter up for a few seconds, struggle to reach 1/3rd throttle, then splutter down and stall.
- Occasionally I get her working for long enough to get a ride in. When I do, I leave the choke out for 5 mins.
- After this period she runs pretty perfectly.
A few notes which might help to diagnose the issue:
- She runs better when hot. Pretty damn well.
- When I go to low throttle when the engine is warm, she still struggles to stay operating, and I never used to have this problem.
- I recently installed the vForce 4 reeds.
- The bike has never idled comfortably warm or not. I have to feather the throttle.
- I recently did as the Clymer manual suggested and turned the air screws to 2 turns out. Didn't help.
A few ideas I've had, if you can throw me on the right track I'd appreciate it:
- Maybe the jetting at low throttle was slightly on the lean side to begin with, and the reeds installation maybe I've pushed it too lean. But reeds are meant to make your bike richer, so this doesn't make much sense.
- Maybe I didn't get the seal correct and there is an air leak in the reed assembly. This would presumably make it leaner.
- I have heard of issues with interchanging the float bowls from each carb. Perhaps I inadvertently switched them over when I cleaned my carbs?
- Help!
I am heading out on a trip soon. A recon trip with the purpose of getting her running perfectly. I have a long 5km stretch of flat road to plug chop on, and I have a few spare pairs of spark plugs. I would like to get her starting fairly okay before I go on the trip, so that I don't get down there and realize that it's something other than jetting.
Thanks for any help.
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I have recently installed new reeds and cleaned my carbs comprehensively, as per Clymer manual directions.
I took her out for a ride today and she ran like a dream for the first half hour. I turned it off to walk up and see the terrain up ahead, and when I turned her back on she revved really high all of a sudden.
The throttle is really loose to half way, then immovable after. It sort of gives me throttle based on how much I apply it, but is sort of random and may jerk off on its own. The throttle does something, but it's not at all a smooth acceleration.
Then it hits about half way up the throttle and it won't let me push it any further. Acting very erratically.
Any suggestions on what might be the issue? Can't be a seized cylinder because exhaust comes out evenly from each pipe. I took off the air filter and had a look in, the throttle valves on both sides seem stuck in place.
Is this what a TORS event feels like? Any ideas?
Thanks.
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That US to AUS shipping is a killer. I've shipped a few things there and it even make cringe I can't imaging the buyer.
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I custom built a gaming PC in 2008 when 1AUD=1.20USD. Those were the days. Now it's 1AUD=0.70USD, and the USD hasn't picked up value. We've just dropped. Makes these projects so much more expensive.
And you're spot on about postage, I can't buy books off Amazon even as they are always $30+ to ship. I got a (fucking mint) swag sent to me from over east and it cost me $150 postage. Easy to forget Australia end to end is LA to NY, but without any of the infrastructure, and no option but 2000km desert to cross. Postage is expensive for this reason. Doesn't help living in the second most isolated capital city on the planet.
You won't regret buying VF4's, other then the price.
Thanks I'll pick em up mid next week and chuck some pics on here
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They use a oem reed cage, I think $94 usd did both cylinders, very nice people to talk to
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Wow, very inexpensive! If my local store stocks them or can get them in I will, otherwise I'll unfortunately have to go for the vForce 4. Going back to the image in the OP next Friday and I wouldn't mind having it all set up for then.
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Bar mount lights work great for turning, so yes I would recommend.
Yes send Sheerider1026 (Gary Tabor on Facebook) a PM and he will get you set up on the stator and what rectifier to buy.
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Hmm, maybe I'll stick a second light up there, much smaller wattage.
Just throwing this out there, look up Carbon Tech for reeds, they use a stock cage and they come in high or low tension, depends how you want your motor to act. I use there low tension reeds and it was a noticeable change over stock...
I'll need new cage for vforce4 but not Carbon Tech?
You from Australia?
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Yeah mate.
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Wow that beach looks virgin sand.
Winter in a town of 250 with a coastline of 100km+ makes for some remote riding. Shit all out there. I've been pretty fortunate in my location. So have you, Oregon must be great!
Do a DC conversion,battery and a custom stator from member sheerider1026 and will be hands down your best upgrade. As for lights I've used from low Budget china ones to Baja designs, rigid and Vision X. You get what you pay for and the quality stuff is pricey but my favorite so that's what I run.
One of my trail bikes with Baja designs Squadron pro lights and S2 on bars.
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Thanks for the reply. That setup looks sweet. I had originally planned to have one on the bars so I get better coverage when turning. Do you recommend?
How might I obtain a stator from sheerider1026? Just PM?
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UHF/CB Radio
I would like the following:
- Headset into my helmet
- Microphone into my helmet
- Push to talk button on left handlebar
I have seen UHF radios for your car which have a wireless push to talk button you can strap to the steering wheel. I would prefer something similar. Preferably handheld, but I am cautious though willing to consider some sort of inbuilt option if necessary.
Basically, I want a proper radio setup.
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Hi, as previously detailed, I have a 2013 Yamaha Banshee w/ FMF fatty pipes, powercore 2 silencers, toomey 2:1 filter, +4 timing plate, etc.
This time around I am upgrading the electrics. Specifically:
- Speedo/odo/tach
- Permanent battery
- As bright an LED light bar as is feasible.
- UHF/CB solution
- New reeds (not electrical but I have the current ones out anyway so why not)
Money is a moderate issue, same as before. I am probably willing to splurge to an absurd extent anyway, like before
Thankfully I now have a Clymer manual, so maintenance and repairs have been going much easier recently.___________________________________________________________________
Speedometer
I've found a speedo/odo/tach I like: the Trail Tech Vapor , so that's sorted. I was intent on getting one which measures the wheel revolutions rather than using inaccurate GPS and the such. Plus a tachometer, temps, and hour-meter will be helpful.
I'm an information guy.
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Battery
The permanent battery I hear I'll need to do a DC conversion for, but I'm a little unsure on whether I need a rectifier/regulator and what exactly I need to do.
Would very much prefer to not have to upgrade the whole stator. Please advise!
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LED light bar
The light bar I'm split on. I would really like to throw down $600 on this Baja Designs OnX6 10" bar, as it produces 11,000 raw lumens and has both spot and wide LEDs. That said, there are a lot of ~6000 lumen (effective too, whereas BD quotes raw) light bars out there on the cheap - sub $150. Any brand suggestions in this area would be well appreciated.
Will such a light bar (101W) work with the battery? I hear the stock stator produces about 70W in total - I don't mind relying on the battery so long as on net I get about an hour before a flat. I can then just recharge it at home for the next outing (or not use the lights until it recharges).
I want the brightness to be truly absurd for an ATV. I want to have better lights than any of the decked out 4wds I happen to pass
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Reeds
Pretty sure about the vForce 4 reeds. May as well get your perspective.
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So yeah, any advice you can offer would be much appreciated. This is pretty early into my research, but I thought I'd drop a line and fish for some solutions. I will take pics as I go and keep you updated.
Thanks.
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Anything would be a huge improvement over stock suspension, except the cheap eBay shocks. I have alba +2+1 aarms (280$ shipped I believe) and had a works dual rate front shocks and that was a night and day difference over stock. Works shocks can be had for about $250. Thatll probably be the cheapest way to go but it will be a huge improvement
That sounds brilliant. I had expected a good setup to be like $3000, based on preliminary Googling. Seems they were talking about pro MX setups.
^ I agree with all of that.
You can have an awesome suspension setup for $1k, but my advice is always to spend as much as you can come to terms with on suspension. For the recreational rider, $1k is sufficient.
As stated above, anything aftermarket is a huge improvement over stock. Works are good shocks, but they're not the best. I'd search around for some Elka or Fox shocks. Fireball arms are good and I love my LSR arms, but LSR (or just about any a-arms) is gonna blow your budget if you buy new. I'd go with used arms and find some shocks that are setup pretty close to them.
If you wanna buy new and stay close to that budget, I'd go with some Alba arms and some Fox Floats or Elka stage 1s.
I like the reviews of the Elka ones. Is this going to be a substantial difference on trails? Money isn't so much of an object, but I don't want to waste it.
I'm going a bit out there by using a Banshee for tight trails, but it's where I like to ride, I keep it in the powerband constantly, and would like to have a smooth ride to go with it.
what happened to your unlimited budget
That was for reeds, not suspension!
Last upgrade I had an unlimited budget because I was in the money at that point. I have just come back from Europe $5000 poorer.
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Hi. I will post some pics of my bike tomorrow cause it's 4am at the moment.
It's time for my second major upgrade to my Banshee. My ideas are as follow:
- TORS replacement kit cause I meant to last time and it's not a difficult upgrade. Why not.
- Aftermarket reeds - was looking at one of the vForce reeds - money is no object so what do you recommend?
- Wide rear axle - have wanted this from day one.
- GPS/speedo (perhaps) - I'm sorta split on this one, cause I like exploring without a clue, but it'd be so helpful. Ideas? Worth it?
- New suspension (see below).
I mostly ride on trails (sand, gravel, tree roots, some rocks), gravel roads, and boggy soft beaches. The bike feels a bit unstable and tall at the front, and the stock suspension isn't really adequate for going fast over those trails. What do you recommend? I'm looking for a starting point here cause I have literally no clue. Then again, that's how I started with upgrade #1 before I asked here
My budget for the suspension is about $1000, but if that's really not enough for a quality set up I can save and buy something more expensive. I want to get this right the first time around. Keep in mind I'm a recreational rider so I don't need perfection here, I just want a good ol' noticeable difference.
From some preliminary Googling, it looks like I'll need a-frames and some other stuff. Please advise. I promise I will become more educated before I go ahead with the upgrade, this is just how I work. Trust me (:
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If it helps, I have a 2013 Banshee with the following upgrades installed by myself: FMF fatty pipes, Powercore 2 silencers, 320 mains, 27.5 pilots, Toomey 2 into 1 air filter, +4 adjustable timing plate, Razr Ballance rears, Razr XC fronts, etc.
Thanks for the help (:
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Either buy a flywheel holder or make one and torq it like its supposed to be or put an impact on it.
Can I have someone hold it? Will that harm it?
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Just installed the adjustable timing plate without much issue. The problem I'm having is that the whole flywheel rotates when I try to do up the nut.
Suggestions? I've tried putting it into gear and having someone break while I do it up. Seems pretty tight, but not enough that I'm satisfied.
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So I just got my new cub cylinders from a sponsor on here and pretty un impressed with the finish quality on the intakes. Tell me what you think. Any drag or high rpm ported jugs I've seen had the dividers or separator plates sharpened or made to form a nice transition. These are still very blunt
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I'm wary to port my cylinders, but I'd really like to.
I'm too addicted to low end power (:
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Probably. Only you can plug chop/read to confirm. Son has unported 4mil, Fmf signatures, vito's reeds/stock cage, +4*, 300m, 27.5p for summer
about 900' asl
Yeah I am going to check my plugs once I've got it set up. Just hoping it's safe to test and won't be too lean or rich as a starting point.
From there I can adjust as needed.
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Don't saw shit off. Why are you trying to remove it with carbs still on? Take your carbs off, slide your wiring out of the clips on airbox. Shove it forward pull it out. At the end of day, throw it away. Switch to pods. Way easier, and a hell of a lot better looking as well. Will need to rejet again though.
Pods? Have a Toomey 2:1 air filter I'm attempting to install.
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Another problem I'm having is removing the airbox. The two connections on either side of the airbox seem to require sawing off. I'd prefer not to. Some suggest pushing it forward and out, but that pushes straight into my carb.
Suggestions?
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Those may be to much if your cyls arent ported
Id go 27.5 pilot and 280 main
Maybe even 30 pilot if you go with the vf4 reeds
I suggested 290 to the guy in the store (who seemed very well informed), but he seemed to think they'd be too little. He started out suggesting 300, then when I said I'd buy 3 sets of mains and pilots he said to go with 300, 310, and 320 (he had no 300 in stock though).
Would 310 be safe to start up and test at least? It's not going to blow up on me first start?
Thanks for the reply mate, it's appreciated.
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this was the first one my brother in law Bruce
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFqYJJ7i-us&feature=g-subs
this was the second one he is 57 yrs old and drives 5 hours to climb with us he lives to climb rides like a mofo and will attempt anything!! to bad this time he broke 3 ribs collapsed a lung and shattered his scapula and will need surgery
he drove himself home to ohio 5hr away and went to hospital he is a tough OLD guy
sorry my gopro way pointing way to high video dont really start till 28 sec in and watch thru or skip thru you see me dragging him off the hill
I would get SO depressed riding around such bleak environments! I like my scenery while riding haha.
Banshee Engine Not Sustaining Itself
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted · Edited by LoveThePolice
1. Installed 30 pilots, the 27.5s were slightly sandy but not clogged. Cleaned em better than I thought I had before.
2. Installed 300 mains. No clogs.
3. Ran a compression test. Only makes 90 psi. Seems like it's time for a rebuild, does it not?
4. Air screw at 2 turns out, needle at middle clip.
5. Fixed a small leak in the right exhaust manifold.
6. Inspected reed cages for damage, all clear.
7. Push started once, now she will start from kick, albeit not very reliably. I will tinker with the jetting down south to see if I can get it Mickey Mouse.
Thanks a lot guys. I don't know what I'd do without you. Is that 90psi a good indication that a rebuild is warranted? She still screams along...
PS: whoever put the left carb air screw on the inside side of the bike needs to be fired. Means I have to take the air filter off to adjust :/ wish I could do it while it's running.