Green95LX

For sale, one set of threaded inserts used to mount the foot pegs. They are threaded M10 coarse thread, the stock used M10 fine thread. I made an extra set of them, i'm asking 70$ shipped. As seen in my thread. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=179491

MN12- Thunderbird

To each their own, whatever works i cant take away from that. I spent under 5$ for the material and got paid while i made them.

Yes, the 1.040 dia step was mainly to locate and center it up.

Sorry, i believe i jumped the gun. Once everything was ground down flush, they fit correctly. Like i said though, there's some dimensions that arent exactly critical

Hold the presses, i found an error. On the two rear inserts, go ahead and extended that ,.375 step out to .500. I dropped my inserts in today and that step isn't long enough.

Oh yeah, i'm not trying to make a living with these. I'll make a few more sets maybe if the parts are worth enough.

I've got more material, i'm going to try and make another set or two in the coming weeks. Biggest thing i want to know is what these things are worth to people.

I'd buy that man a beer for sure. No, i did all of the work on that little Leblond. I say little because its a small tyke compared to some. i'm not sure how old the machine is, it's probably from the 60s or 70s. They (the parts) were hand made, no CNC/NC control

Dang, that would make it a lot easier Yes, i ran the parts on an old LeBlond engine lathe just like this http://www.alencotool.com/lathepages/images/leblond19.jpg

Whats a lathe?

Well i hope it does help people, between this and my fix on the gas tank inserts i didn't see any reason to not provide everything i knew. And to all of the people who wanted some made, i wouldn't know where to even price them. Machine work is high, and it's a tough deal to be fair to everyone. myself included. Not to mention the problem i've seen a million times before, where a guy starts off with the best of intentions and soon finds himself in over his head. Angry people with no money and no product. If i were to make any more to be sold, i wouldn't take any payment until i had completed pieces ready.

.660 should put you up against the frame inside the hole .580 slid in nice and snug, to locate off the hole that is there when the front mount is removed Obviously its not critical on some of these dimensions

I'm no draftsman, thats for sure. These should help some, if not ill do my best to explain. The first two are the front mounts The third one is the rear and they are the same both sides The only critical diameter is the 1.040 step and that is so it will fit inside the tubing back there, I picked .375 out of thin air along with the .800 diameter and it's .625 length.

I'll post them up when I get home,

Oh, I wasn't posting this as an ad. Just showing what I had done to fix.

One of my footpeg inserts in the frame started to strip out on me, So i whipped up this set of replacements to fix that problem once and for all. Not bad for using a hand drill, a grinder and some file work? Yes, i could have helicoil insert repaired them or even tapped to a different thread pitch. There's really not much thread length at all on the rear two, it's laughable how little there actually is. People drilling and tapping larger take note, it's just a nut in there. These replacements have more thread all around and i tapped them M10x1.5 which is a coarse thread instead of the M10 fine thread yamaha had installed. Should be a simple install once the other ones are removed.

Thanks, that means a lot coming from you. I'm glad to see it was well received and might be helpful to people in the future

I don't have any money in the repair, actually was at work when i made the inserts. Even though i used a normal tap to get started in the tank, a person could grind a bolt and get by with only that. All things considered i believe this is a very cost effective repair

The cavity where the insert sets is not open to the gas tank. I failed to get pictures of everything, this thread was actually kind of an afterthought, I wanted to share and hopefully someone else could benefit from it. Luckily i had enough pictures to piece this together.

Ok so my threaded insert started spinning the gas tank when i went to remove the bolt. It seems like most people dont know what the hell to do when this happens. People buying another tank (seriously?) made no sense to me. It's going to happen again one day, just as it did before. So after some research this is how i decided to repair it. If the bolt is still in the insert, cut the head off (i used a hack saw) take an electric drill and chuck it on the bolt sticking out, i'd tighten it pretty good now spin the shit out of it and lightly pull out, the insert will eventually heat up and pull free Measuring the factory insert and the existing hole left after removing the insert, i found that 1/2-13 thread would work out nicely I didn't drill the hole any larger after i got the insert out, this is the factory insert removed I didn't have a bottoming tap, so i ground a 1/2-13 bolt to play it's part This is the threaded insert i made for the repair. I took a stainless 1/2-13 bolt and parted the head off, faced it to .500 length. Then drilled and tapped it M6-1.0. It is not drilled completely through, it's a blind hole just as the factory insert was. Once i had threads cut in the gas tank, i took an M6 bolt with a locknut threaded on it partially and used them to drive the repair insert in until it felt like it was bottomed out. I smeared some black RTV silicone on the inserts threads before i installed it, it wouldn't hurt to use something to help lock it in. Although if it ever did come back out, it can just be threaded back in.

I apologize, we actually got to looking and the shift lever is the same length as stock. Its just the AC propegs are moved back

Yes, but they all are stock length are they not?

My buddy has a 98 Shee that he bought, came with a set of AC propeg nerfs on it, extended shift lever and extended rear brake pedal. I haven't been able to locate an extended shifter anywhere. I know it makes shifting in MX boots so much nicer. It doesn't look like someone has cut, welded and extended the shift lever. Honestly, it looks like it was made that way. Is it possible that it's a shifter off another bike or quad? Thanks