mvvette97
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Posts posted by mvvette97
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More like 500+
I got ya, so small bores for mine for sure. Any idea what pipe has more of the mid to top pull? The CPI or Shearers
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So are the big bore pipes more for the 400cc and up engines?
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Man, lots of SB/BB stuff lately. I'd bet with your combo small bores would be best if you're actually dragging at a track. If it's just play riding and hot lapping, you may be in BB territory, but on that combo it's doubtful. Maybe BB CPI.
yea thanks for your reply man. I have been searching on here for an hr trying to find info between small bore and big bore but haven't found alot of useful info. I even read a thread where a guy said the bike would hardly run with big bores on a stock jug engine even if the jugs were bored
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Hey guys I would like to buy some better pipes for my banshee. I really only ride it for straight drags and will most likely take it to the dunes once a year. It's a 4mil stroker with stock jugs with .040 over and drag ported and 20cc heads and running a set of pwk 35s. i currently have the PT high revs and I do like them if and when I take it down on the trails but would like something better on the top end. I hear alot of talk about CPI and shearers but what's with the small and big bore pipes? Does one size work better with certain mods than the other?
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Still have the crank for sale if anybody is interested
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Compression is in the 90's, I'm gonna do a rebuild after Christmas so I guess I'll see then.
i bet that's the problem
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I would check your compression. if it's not a fuel problem and the spark looks ok then compression may be low
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I have always used boss bearings in my quads. They seem to stand up as good as stock.
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Whats the numbers the rods or can u take a picture
the rods say 158 on them. They are the 115mm rods. Let me know if ya want a picture and PM me your number so I can send one to you.
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Just so you all know you will need to run a spacer plate under the jugs or have your head machined to use this crank.
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selling this good used hotrods +4mm stroker crankshaft. It has the 115mm long rods. All bearings are good and tight and smooth and the crank is welded like most stroker cranks are. I just did a complete tear down on my banshee to replace crank seals and figured I would replace the crank while it was apart. I had ordered a new crank already before I had got mine torn down "mistake" just to find this crank is still in perfect condition. Nothing wrong with it at all. Will do $300 shipped to the USA only. As heavy as it is it would be terrible expensive to ship to Canada I'm sure. any questions just let me know or PM me and I can give you my phone number if ya want to call me.
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Pic looks kinda small to me...if you can't see it, it's 385cc.
Thanks man, that's a good chart.
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By the way what size is my engine? .040 over bore with the 4mil stroker
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Then there is no need for a spacer plate.
That's what I was wondering. I ordered a .020, .030 and a .040 base gaskets but not sure what one to use. I tried to mease the old one and it looks like it was about a .035 thick on the outside edge but where is had been compressed was about .025 or a bit less
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So...curious you said there wasn't a spacer plate, correct? Is it ported? Are you sure it's a 4 mil crank?
no there was no spacer plate and yes it's ported. I have the crank out beside me on the floor here and yea its a 4mm long rod. Is what they did was had the domes machined out for the pistons from what I can tell. Here are a couple pics
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well got it torn down and found that the crank seal on the clutch side was junk. So I know for sure what the problem is. Was thinking of just installing a new crank while I am in there. Mine seems fine but since I have it torn down this far I may just do it
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I'm guessing that's what it is. I'm trying to figure out what all seals and gaskets I need to order so I can get them on their way. I have a 4mil stroker and a guy is telling me i need to order the spacer plate and base gaskets which is supposed to be .060 thick but i just went out and looked and i swear there is not spacer between the jugs and case. Just looks like a single base gasket.
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It is down on the stick just a little after a long day of hard riding but not much. It doesn't seem to be smoking bad or anything and runs great. if it would be the seal can it be changed just by removing the clutch cover and all that stuff or does the case need to be split to get the seal out?
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I would assume if it was sucking it through a crank seal then wouldn't it smoke more than normal or even change the color of the plug?
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Thanks man. I didn't know that. I will check that out
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I noticed on my banshee that I have to add just a little oil to the tranny sometimes. It's not very much but just a little. I can ride all day and it will stay full but like over a month it will be down a bit. Any idea what could be going on? It doesn't have excessive smoke like it's sucking it through a seal or the cases and I don't see any leaks. Anybody have this problem ever?
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I have xc master on mine as well. I really like them. I do have the Ambush on my kfx 470 stroker and at first I liked them but it didn't take long to wear them down to a point that they become worthless in the traction department.
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Looks like shipping to Canada will be $23 and a few odd cents. Not as bad as I thought
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It will be like 20-30 tops for shipping in a small flat rate box, if packed small. Mark as gift put worth under 100..bingo bango.
That zip looks to be Red deer Alberta.
Or just get a small box a bit bigger then the carbs and go at er... Probably cheaper this way, anyway.
Yea they have so many options on the USPS site and the prices are all over the place ranging from 25 bucks to 60 bucks. I found a box just big enough for the two carbs and cable to fit in so I'm just gunna stop by the post office and have them tell me exactly what it will cost. I don't want to over charge anybody for shipping like they do on ebay, haha
CPI or Shearers small or big bore for my setup? Opinions please
in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
Posted
yes inframes