jmross

So I finally got some parts from alba. I still don't have a ball joint for an upper. Also ran into alot of issues with this alba lt kit. They did give me a good deal on elka shocks though. My tie rod hits the lower arm well before full lock at full droop. Anybody else having this issue with this kit? Anything I'm doing wrong?

I wont sell the plastics. They were too hard to find. Some pawn shop in Oregon was selling them on ebay a few months ago for $160. They had an orange and a black set with the grill. Both new.

Not sure what brand my current a arms are. They use 14mm ball joints and reamed spindles. Figured if the LT alba arms had a little more travel it would be worth the money. Maybe I'm wrong.

I have been riding with a standard travel +2 +1 setup for a while. Being that I'm 240lbs and using stock shocks, the setup hasn't been a good combo. Now my ball joints are worn out and need replacing, so figured it's time to upgrade. I think I'm gonna go with the alba LT A arm kit and elka shocks. How are the stage 1 elka shocks? Any major fade issues? I only ride the sand dunes out at glamis and I don't do any jumping. Just duning and running the hill.

Just put an order in with racetech. I went with a 12.5 kg/mm or 700lb/in as per their recommendation. Had to get a set of collars with it also. I'm guessing it's a bigger diameter then the factory spring. My shock has already been re-valved too. Hopefully the valving matches well with that stiff of a spring.

On racetechs spring rate calculator they list a 8.12kg/mm with my weight and a +3 swingarm. Im just shocked that another 3" in swingarm length needs a spring that much stiffer.

I need help picking a spring rate for the rear shock. I only ride sand dunes. +6 swingarm and I weigh 240lbs. I called race tech they said I need a 12.something kg/mm. That didn't sound right to me. Thanks.

Is it possible to replace the bump stop with out doing a full teardown of the shock? On the exploded view it looks like the bottom eye is threaded on to the shaft. This is for a factory rear shock . Thanks .

I am looking for replacement front plastics. Red in color. I would like to find fullbore plastics but, any one piece front would be nice. If that's not a option then a factory style front will do. I am stuck on the color red. It seems hard to find plastics anymore. All I can find is maier plastics for 250 bucks for the whole front. Is this all that is available anymore? The plastic I have is cut for a desert tank and I went back to stock. Really all I need is the hood but I would like to replace it all as a set.

I only ride the bike at the Imperial sand dunes area(Gordens well, Buttercup). The bike already is all top end and doesn't bother me at all, so the cub would be fine. The engine was built by oden racing in AZ. Around 10 years ago I think. I bought the bike about a year ago from my uncle. Would cub cylinders need port work to see gains going from my current setup? Are all cub cylinders Nikasil plated? It would be nice to be able to just bore cylinders to the next size when bad shit happens.

It doesn't flow any better? If larger displacement is all I would gain then I would rather keep my stock cylinders.

I currently have a stock cylinder 370 long rod engine and was considering making the jump to a cub cylinder setup. I Just rebuilt my crank so I'd like to stay stock stroke with the 115mm rods. My current cylinders are at 66mm and need to be bored to 66.5mm, which is the max bore size. I was thinking I could instead run 68mm cub cylinders. I still have a stock cylinder head(un sure if any work has been done to it,looks stock). I also already have 35mm pwk's, in frame drag pipes, v-force reeds. My stock cylinder and cases are ported for the 370 setup(pretty aggressive, no low end). Everything should swap over to the cub cylinders? Is it worth the money? or is the power gain not gonna be much? Where is a good place to buy the cub cylinders? I only ride the bike at the dunes and do a lot of hill shooting.