jmross

Nope. I would like to be there. Being in AZ its close enough. Will be at imperial come dune season.

Do i need to run the convex washer behind the cushion plate?

My primary gear is grooved at the seal fit. I saw you can order it separate from the clutch basket. The manual says something about gear mesh and numbers on the gears. But there is only one part number and no adjustment. So if the new gear does not have proper back lash.....then what? If I should buy them together I figure I might as well go with straight cuts for the price. This is going on a driveline high port 4mm. Thanks

Voted white. But any color would be great. I currently run a voltric hood but would like options. OEM or Maier only now for plastic. I know there used to be a lot of options for banshee plastic before I owed a banshee. Now I have one and slim pickings. Bummer. Don't get me wrong..... I love the way the voltric looks. But everybody needs new parts some time or another. At least i seem to do.

So take the bb's and little filter doo dad out. Should I drill the ports any larger? Also, should I ditch the fancy valve for the tube?

Wider where the shock lower eye mounts? Or wider between the tubing that runs from frame to ball joint? Big difference going from my last setup too. I imagine that's because of the shocks though. Stock shocks to Elkas. I've only made 1 dune trip on it, not sure how the front end will hold up yet.

Ordered a pingel from f.a.s.t. and will gut the gas cap. I ran 35mm carbs with my drag ported 370 LR engine and I was ok with the fuel consumption. I wouldnt get too far from camp because of it. I hope it doesn't get too much worse with the 421.

Made the Jump to a high port driveline 4mm setup. I am running 35mm pwk carbs and v force 2 reeds. Am I going to have any fuel supply issues running the factory Kehin bowls and factory petcock? Running pump gas and riding glamis. Thanks

Any benefits to a neutral down promod trans setup? Just sent my transmission to redline and not sure if it's something that would be beneficial. I only ride at glamis sand dunes. Running the hill and duning.

Currently have a HD clutch kit running all 6 HD Springs. Modified shift star with shift pro bearing thing, the pancake bearing clutch adjuster, and redline billet clutch basket. If I make the jump to the 4 mil driveline cylinder setup.... am I gonna have trouble shifting this thing? Or need a beefier clutch setup?

Looking at the driveline stuff..... going 4mm stroker crank, HP cylinders and there cyl head with domes, isn't much more cost wise. Just have to split the case is all.

Blew a head gasket, trashed the pistons and cylinders. Cylinders were on the last bore size anyway. About 2 years ago I went through the bottom end and had my crank rebuilt. So I would like to keep the crank I have, and not split the cases. The crank is 115mm rod length, stock stroke, and welded. Crank feels fine and visually looks good. I am thinking about going to a 65mm cub cylinder. Running 795 series pistons, and a stock head. I don't need to mess with the factory head to run the 795's, right? I figure I can have the head milled to what ever is ideal to run a 50/50 mix of 110 and 91 gas though. I have in frame drag pipes, 35mm carbs, billet intakes ,k&ns already. This sound like a good way to go? Any recommendations?

No, I havent solved the issue. Pretty sure its the a arms that are the issue. Last trip I blew the head gasket. So i have other problens to fix now. Won't mess with the bike for a few months. Going to be too hot here, in AZ. Don't buy alba arms.

Yeah I'm at work. I can try swapping them in a few hours.

Well I emailed alba a picture. Will see what they say about it. Maybe I do have the a arms mounted wrong.

Tie rod hits the bottom arm well before full lock at full droop. Yeah I'm thinking about going with someone else. My shocks are 17.5" eye to eye and have 5 1/4" travel. Not sure what works with that.

The uppers can only go on one way I think. I don't think it would clear the shock upside down. The lowers are correct. Verified with alba over the phone. On a flat service the tops of my tires are cambered in about a 1/4" using a square. Front tires are in line with the rear tires. Everything looks the same from side to side as far as how the lowers are built. Maybe my steering stem is a little off where the tierod mounts? It's an alba racing stem also. The left side tierod clears no problem. Just the right side hits. I might have to live with it I guess. Felt great riding it last weekend. Bushings are making noise, but that's it.

The photos were taken before I got the right ball joints from alba. With the correct ball joints it still hits. The suspension has to travel up almost a full inch from full droop, at the wheel, to clear the tierod and lower arm.

I will double check the camber and toe. Pretty sure it's really close side to side. The caster spacers are on each side of the upper arm. The shocks are 17.5" eye to eye I think. Alba sold them with the kit.

I don't think the steering stop is bent.

Bad link to photo bucket