Driveline Performance

The 4mil low port cylinders come 190.5 which is 30mm from top of deck. The 4mil high port is at 194.5 which is 29mm from top of deck. I sell them machined/unplated so you can do what ever you like to them porting wise. Just give me a call if that's how you would prefer to get them. It's been really busy and the machining process takes a while so just give me a little time to make them.

He does clean up a lot..

Sorry for the delay: The first testing is on my 7mil motor. I strictly drag race this bike so the port timing is 198/128. I wanted to do the testing in stages so on this set of cylinders all I did was port the exhaust and the triples. I did most of the work on the main exhaust port re-shaping it and raising it to the 198 duration. The triple ports were also raised and opened up slightly. The intakes are as casted and the only thing I did to the transfers is match the bottom of the cylinder sleeve at the transfer point to the same radius as the pistons have on the sides of the skirts ( If that makes any sense). I did use my new pistons with the raised intake windows which definitely helped the intake volume on these cylinders seeing as there are no boost ports. The domes I used are not optimal at all but I was not able to cut a set the way I wanted in time so I used what I had. They are 19cc domes with a 9.5mm wide squish band and .053" squish clearance. ( When I re-cut a new set I'm looking for .040" - .042" clearance) The cranking compression came out to 175lbs so I used 110 octane Race gas. The carbs are 38mm Keihins with v-force 2 reeds and UPP intakes (I hate billet intakes) 7 degree's advanced ignition timing. I tested it with 2 sets of pipes so far the first test was Shearer big bore inframes and it made 94H.P. with 50 lbs of torque with peak power at 9800 rpm's. The second set of pipes were Shearer small bore OOF's and it made 96.5H.P. and 51 lbs of torque with peak H.P. at 10,000 rpm's. The big bore inframes had a stronger front side on the curve but made a little less peak power. I want to test with a bigger set of carbs and fix the squish clearance in the near future and hopefully try to reach a 100H.P. I do have graphs to post and will try to get them up as soon as possible. If you guys have any questions I will try to answer them as best I can.

It's an older Hot Rods crank: stock stroke stock rod length. You can tell that it's a stock stroke by the pin location on the webs. A stroker crank will have outer diameter of the pin almost touching if not into the machined outer face surface...if that makes any sense lol. The logo on the rods is from the company that makes their current crankshafts now just an older version. Y29L stands for 110mm rod which is a similar numbering system as OEM. Have it rebuilt or use for parts.

There might be a little performance gain just because the motor should pull a little more fuel and air in with the windows being slightly larger and in a better location for a longer intake duration. I just got these pistons in so I have not had a chance to dyno test them in an engine yet. The 573 Blaster piston has always bothered me as far as using it in a Banshee engine. Don't get me wrong I've used them in my motors for years and they do work fine but I always thought there could be a better designed piston for the Banshee. My two main goals when I designed these pistons was to have the windows higher on the skirt for a longer intake duration and to try and strengthen the intake side of the piston by raising the windows and putting them in a position where there's less stress. Remember, the Blaster piston was designed by Yamaha to be used in a Blaster engine that makes 16H.P. stock. They weren't thinking about piston window location on a high H.P. Banshee stroker engine. The third small benefit from raising the windows is the upper rod bearing will get more lubrication. Did it need it? Maybe... maybe not but it can't hurt.

New piston option for 68mm bore cylinders with a 6mm higher pin height like the 573mo6800 (blaster piston). This piston has a few changes that improve longevity, increased oiling to the needle bearing and larger repositioned intake windows. These retail for $89.95 each and are now available. Happy holidays. Side by side comparison with a blaster 573mo6800(right). A 573mo6800 piston in a 4, 7, or 10mm stroker cub cylinder at bottom dead center. New Driveline Perfomance piston at bottom dead center. Same piston crown profile as the 573mi6800.

I'm sure we've met at some point in time at the Stanton races. Shooter was with me every time I was there and Andy was there a couple times as well. I can't believe you have shooters long lost 19 tooth sprocket. When he decided to get out of the sport he brought me all of his extra parts and I looked through all his crap for that sprocket. I'm glad it went to a good home..haha. It's nice to see guys on here who remember those days.

Wow!!! NYUK your going way back with dollar and shooter. I actually talked with dollar a month or so ago and he wants to get his Banshee back up and running again. The last time he rode it was in 2003 when him myself and shooter went to Stanton (Mid Michigan Dragway) and did the midnight madness 1/8 mile race. He blew his transmission that night and it's been sitting ever since. Shooter and I went to Fallon in 2004 over memorial weekend and he sold his chassis to Camatv I think after that trip. He met a girl (his wife now) so that was the end of his banshee career. I still talk with him now and then. He moved over by Lansing near A&S racing and has like 4 kids now. I try not to let Bill hang around to much Lol! He does come in handy when I have multiple people over to dyno.

Hey Guys, My name is Lane Lauer and I own Driveline Performance. Thought I would give a little background about myself and my company. I originally started in this industry back in the late 90's, myself and a buddy had a company called Dynoedge. Some of you guys that have been around for a while might remember that name. We mostly did drag engine builds and dyno tuning for just about any quad. In 2003 I opened my own dyno tuning shop and we dynoed everything from quads to dirt and street bikes. I even had a Dynojet snowmobile dyno and spent the winters clutch tuning more snowmobiles than I care to remember. Snowmobiles were a nightmare to hook up to a dyno and the clutch part company's at that time were the most back stabbing people I've ever dealt with so that was a venture I couldn't wait to get away from. I took a lot of the information I learned tuning everyone's stuff to come up with the clutch components that I carry today. After dyno tuning for years you learn what works well and what doesn't. I added chains and sprockets to go along with my clutch parts since it was a common item people asked if I had. About 3 years ago I decided to buy a Haas cnc mill so that I could expand my product line. I had a lot of designs that I wanted to produce, some of them were ideas that we had back when we were Dynoedge. I figured the only way I could get them made at a reasonable price was to do it myself. Some of the billet items I have are products that have been made for years but I do try and make them the way I think work the best. I have a few Banshees and I've done every kind of riding and drag racing. Back in the 90's Myself, Tyson racing and A&S were some of the first people to really get heavy into asphalt racing. Tyson and myself ran 1/8 and 1/4 mile on lawn mower tires LOL! American racers weren't discovered yet by the Atv world and Hoosiers only came 18" tall. The taller lawn mower tire was better for 1/4 mile speeds. So basically I'm a one man shop at this point and I try and create new ideas and products to better the Atv industry. I'm glad to help out anyone anytime. You can call the shop if you have any questions or problems and I will try to do what I can to help you out. If you call and no one answers just try back because it's very hard to hear the phone when the cnc is running. The new shop phone number is 248-793-3535. Call Send SMS Add to Skype You'll need Skype CreditFree via Skype