EaCastillo00
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Posts posted by EaCastillo00
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I meant Backfires*
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Hello guys, i did my carbs yesterday, My bike has recent Top End, stock bore 64mm wiseco, K&N proflow kit, T5 pipes and silencers. My jetting is 280main, 27.5 pilots, neddle clip on mid position, air screw 1-1/2 turns out, when it startd, it doesnt run right, and it missfires, maybe air screw? It has good spark
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Thansks guys
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Hello guys just wanted to know, what is the normal float height in mm? Im doing maintnance on my carbs just wanted to check if mine had the right height, i got the stock mikuni carbs
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Sorry guyd i didnt know what thread this topic belongs to so i put it here, i was looking for an engine and a guy was selling an engine which looked decent, i didnt buy it though because the engine serial number was weird, it didnt start with the typical 3GG-... it started PWCG-... what could have happened? Are there any aftermarket engines or cases that have that serial numbering? Or what??
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Sorry guyd i didnt know what thread this topic belongs to so i put it here, i was looking for an engine and a guy was selling an engine which looked decent, i didnt buy it though because the engine serial number was weird, it didnt start with the typical 3GG-... it started PWCG-... what could have happened? Are there any aftermarket engines or cases that have that serial numbering? Or what??
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On 6/13/2017 at 0:40 PM, blowit said:
Water pump engineering is tricky work to get right, even at static rpms. With a PTO driven pump off of an engine, the pump performance becomes highly variable with rpm.
The target flow rates of any proper pumping system employed for thermal transfer is the turbulent flow threshold. However, this flow rate target may only be achieved in certain ports, and the radiator cores may be too small have any appreciable gain from turbulent flow. In short, the radiator cores are purposely designed to limit flow rate based on ideal differential pressures. The theory of "slower water works better" is not supported by any engineering practice. In fact, higher turbulent flow will always perform better. However, there is a point of "diminishing returns" for too much flow rate as this just eats up power to run a pump.
I guess I could go on all day about thermal transfer but we helped an aftermarket company design their radiators. They were good at making them, not so good at calculating the thermal exchange. You have to look at the thermal conductivity of the radiator (Aluminum), the fluid, the thermal mass, surface area, air temps, etc, etc. A radiator is just as variable as anything else in the system.
What does this jargin boil down to? In the Banshee, we design to ensure the pump does not have significant "slip" which is basically power lost that only generates MORE heat. We target higher operating pressures and proper impeller filling, which will eliminate cavitation.
When you look at a pump curve, there is always a pressure/flowrate comparison, and it became obvious that in auto industry, "high flow" seems to be the trendy term(we even use it), but "high pressure" is typically more ideal. Why? I will use just an example. If the stock Banshee pump can do say 2gpm at 0ft of head pressure, that flow rate could drop to a poopy .5gpm at only 10ft of head pressure. So when looking at the "flow rate" of a pump, you must always consider the pressures too.
And when it comes down to flow velocity, it doesn't care about pressure, but without pressure(differential pressure really), you cannot get efficient flow across the radiator.
Brandon
Mull Engineering
Lord jesus thanks for your reply! But could you simplify things a little bit please? Just to get things straight, will the "hi flow" impeller, and the oversized aluminum radiator work? Will they improve cooling?
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57 minutes ago, hoppedupandcutdown said:
Where did you read that?
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10 hours ago, n2otoofast4u said:
Pressure, velocity, volume........ All 3 different things.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
3 different things but will the set up give me improved cooling, i dont have any overheating problems, but i wish to have better cooling as in to feel more secured that my bike wont get too hot when climbing up mountains where sometimes you cant go to fast, and air wont be flowing through the radiator
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Guys im thinking about upgrading my cooling sistem, any thoughts and reviews on Pro design Hi Flow impeller, what i dont understand, why does it say it slows water flow? Its called mega flow water impeller, should it increase water flow?? Im confused ?? Also i will buy a oversized aluminum radiator
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On 6/6/2017 at 4:13 PM, blowit said:
Guess I feel compelled to offer my input.
The first thing I might question is the mechanic. We may not have the full story but it sounds like the bike has a starting problem but otherwise runs good. A comp value of 60psi, unless you are on Mt Everest, would be pretty much not running at all. I would first question that value. Seen this tooooo many times where guys end up doing a total rebuild over a poor compression test. The adapter that screws into the head is just as important as the gauge.
Personally, I would pull the pipes and/or the reed blocks to get a good look at the rings. At 60psi and those hours, either your rings are welded into the pistons, or you have no problem at all. If the ports were so sharp that they destroyed the rings in a couple hours, that usually leaves some evidence in the bore, or a quick feel will tell you.
Yes, it is normal for the pistons to look a little "loose" from the top. The top timing edge of the piston is designed smaller due to how it expands when hot. A sharp mechanic can simply move the piston around at TDC and determine if the rings are welded or not.
To me this sounds like a choke problem. Not pulling it all the way out to the second click, cross tube is missing, etc, etc. Something simple
Brandon
Mull Engineering
Yes, as i said, thing looks neat, as if i had just rebuilt it, and once i get to turn it on, it runs good, it idles perfectly, pipes dry, im gonna do what you told me with another mechanic, check the rings, and see what they say, and try a compresion test with another tester, the place i live in is 300 mts over sea level, so i guess that if the engine had 60 psi it wouldnt turn on, would it?
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2 hours ago, booxzzy said:
Did you try new fuel, did you check the spark plugs, vacuum leaks?
There is quite few things you should check before you get the new pair of rings.
Ok, will try, but would that explain the low compression?
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No, they were not niche, lets say the port windows edges were sharp, what kind of damage could they make? would they damage the rings? because the cilinder walls are neat, no scratches no dents, only the small play i mentioned before
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Hello guys how are you? well thing is i recently did my top end, bought brand new cilinders, rings, pistons, gaskets, did this like 4 months ago and i have used it for about 2 hours, mostly beach riding, havent gone trailing yet, ive used 32:1 oil ratio, pump gas, recently i started having problems turning it on, went to my mechanic and did a compression test, it says 60psi! we get the cool head out and check the cilinders and pistons for wear, they are like new! no scratches, no tears, no dents, everything looks as if it was built yesterday, only thing we notice is pistons have a little play, could it be a ring failure? another thing, once i get it to turn on it works perfectly, it runs good, pipes are not dripping oil, the are dry, it doesnt consume oil from the tranny, doesnt overheat, and turns on everytime once i get it to turn on the first time. help dont know what to do, should i try and throw some new rings in it?
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What i want is opinions, what do you think, how fast is it, how does the quad work, how is the powerband affected, how fast do you rev using this gear, opinions, will it work on trail, on the beach.
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Guys opinions on getting a 15-41 sprocket ratio? The good, the bad and the ugly?
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Hey guys i was wondering how hard will it be to wheelie with a 12-41T gearing ratio?
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How do i do a compression test?Do a compression test. Very possible you hurt that motor from running it that lean. Having to jump start that is a good sign your low on compression.
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Ok, so i was riding and i noticed my bike pulls me a little to the right, i get home and notice my right tire is a bit toe out, how can i allign it, please help
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Set the air screw to half a turn out. Work from there.
Ok so latest update on my quad: I rejetted just as you guys suggested, now it runs like a beast, it runs great, i even had a friend that races and used to race on banshees to test it out and he says it runs great, i mean it even sounds different, thing is, once it turns on its a marvel, incredible, the hard part its getting it to start, if its a cold start i have to start it while being pulled, a running start in other words, impossible to get it running with the kick starter, once it gets started i can turn it back on very easily, but omce its been like 3 or 4 or more hours since its been turned of, its imposible to turm on:( please help
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I mean I am surprised it runs worth a damn in the other gears. You should be a lot higher in the jetting.
Ok guys bought the jets already, final questions before re jetting, first, will it be necessary to adjust my air screw after rejet? And last but not least, in what position should my needle clip be?
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By saying that you mean it should be fried with those Jetting settings?I am surprised this thing even runs with that lean of jetting.
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Toomey T5 Pipes, K&N Pro Flow Kit, my engine just Got Overhauled, its standard, Inside the carb, 200 Main, 25 pilot, and Tors Eliminator Kit,List every mod and jetting inside the carb.
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Toomey T5 Pipes, K&N Pro Flow Kit, my engine just Got Overhauled, its standard, Inside the carb, 200 Main, 25 pilot, and Tors Eliminator Kit,
Pleaseeee help :( What is wrong ??!
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted · Edited by EaCastillo00
Yes i did all that; i also replaced de air screws with some new ones, maybe the new ones arent working appropiately, im thinking about putting the old ones back in, they were working just fine