[Clutch/clutch lever issues]

My personal experience, I have found sometimes that the actuator does not necessarily have to line up with the case arrows. I actually had to adjust mine to the right side of the case arrow to stop it from creeping in gear. Also, like as has been stated, a stretched cable will make it impossible to get adjusted right, they are cheap enough to change out yearly or so. Also keep it lubed. One other thing is the perch/lever combo needs to jive with each other to get enough pull

[Clutch Adjustment, too tight?]

Lot of guys like ASV. I got some cheap ass perch and lever that a shop local to me had so I picked it up one day just to get rid of the ugly stock junk. Always planned to get a good set up but it's been on there for a couple years and works fine.

[Clutch Adjustment, too tight?]

It may be stretched, but either way it's not gonna hurt to replace the cable. You may be surprised at how much easier you clutch pull is also. Their cheap enough to be replaced once a year or so and keep your old one as a spare, they should be flushed with a cleaner and re-lubed often also. 

 

If you adjust your clutch going by the case arrow/actuator arm you may need more adjustment. The arrows basically don't mean shit, sometimes if you adjust it to where your actuator is more to the right side of the case arrow it seems like you get more "throw". Another thing is if your clutch lever/perch are not right you wont get enough throw also, such as if you are running a lever with too much bend to it, it's gonna hit the handle bar before it should if that makes any sense. 

[Clutch Adjustment, too tight?]

Reolace cable and re-adjust clutch

[Ricky Stator DC conversion]

Sounds like the point has been made, but here's another one. I personally saw one fail right out of the box, brand new, bike would not start. (Buddies bike, I would not buy one)

 

Replaced with OEM no more issues.

[Pops and sputters before power band]

Hard to tell from the video but sounds like you may be a tad rich on the needle, when I had stock carbs I was at 350 mains on ported stock cylinders, also with Pro Circuits and pods. You should be pretty close with the 340's. Have you tried adjusting your needles any?

[looking at a banshee]

Sounds like the damage is already done

[looking at a banshee]

Should be able to just unplug your parking brake plug behind the radiator, no splicing neccassary

[Carbs flood out when bike is warmed up]

What elevation you at? Couple bikes around me with just pipes and pods run good at 27.5 and 300. This is around 500'asl

[My first banshee 05 se build]

I got an EK chain and JT sprocket set over last winter, quite a few hours on since then and only adjusted once shortly after I put them one. Been great so far.

[For Sale - 99 Banshee 421 Cub Motor - Completely Rebuilt]

Damn fine machine you got there. glws

[PWK 28 jetting!]

Are they geniune Keihin jets?

[PWK 28 jetting!]

190? Somethings fucky

[Motor build question]

Something else to keep in mind is if your runnin around on a stock crank and plan to do mods, would be wise to send crank out to get inspected and welded.

[Motor build question]

You have to put a price on what you want to spend and the type of riding you do. Banshee mods are endless and can get expensive.

 

This^^^.

All depends on how much monies ya got to spend. You can go from mild to wild, basic "bolt on's" will do for a while until you get used to it then you'll want more power. It's as addicting as any drug

[$500 banshee, no spark, HELP!]

Bought a cheapo off eBay to try, I've used one in the past with good results

I've personally seen 2 of the el cheapo stators fail, countless others on here have as well. I would never trust that cheap ass electrical shit.

[1st time Banshee Owner]

I run Klotz in 2 banshee's, everybody I ride with runs Klotz (8 Banghee's or so), one buddy of mine runs Klotz in his kids' dirt bikes and they got a few bikes. Never any issues with "gumming up" as your being told that Klotz does. One of my banshee's may sit for a month or more and runs fine still. This is all at 40:1 Super Techniplate.

 

Adding more oil to your pre mix is not how you make it "safer" as your thinking. As stated, stick with a good oil/mix ratio and jet it fat it want piece of mind. 

[My first Banshee need help]

While you have the gas drained wouldn't hurt to pull the fuel petcock out and clean it. There's a fine screen on it that likes to plug up. Make sure something hasn't made it's home in the pipes and silencers. New fuel lines, make sure fuel tank cap and vent line are not plugged with something. New trans oil, grease everything 

[honda push throttle]

Pretty well every Honda throttle is the same. I have one that was supposed to have come off a 300ex.

[Need advice just bought a banshee!]

It would be wise to split the cases, check tolerances on crank and cylinders. Theres likely a whole bunch more shit that needs replaced other than rings

[2006 special edition like new LT setup build Ultimate Duner everything less then 3 hours old]

Sounds like you need to move AND buy a bigger trailer. Problem solved.

Hell of nice bike by the way.

[namura pistons?]

Little late for advice now...

[Best of craigslist..................]

^^This is what happens when humans inbred

[Help a damsel in distress!]

Post ur profile pic so it's bigger, nothing better then hot babe on a banshee...need more pics of babes on banshees....

That would be a good thread to start!!!

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/97043-official-girls-on-banshees-thread

[Think I may have a big problem?]

I tried the throttle carb it just moving more air into the engine

It's "moving more air" because the idle is set higher on that carb.

 

You have to set your idle to make both carbs pull the same. Put the sync tool on one carb, you say the one is pulling around 5, now if the other is pulling any less vacum, run your idle up on that carb until they are dead even. Usually around 5 is pretty good but both have to pull the exact same.